Hoe and toter

   / Hoe and toter #1  

cleatus

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2004
Messages
311
Location
granbury tx
Tractor
sears suburban
Been playing with some aquired inventory and old stock. First the toter was put together to prove to myself that old chaindrive tranny from mower would motivate a rear diff.
 

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   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Next I started building a backhoe loosely following free plans. When I say loosely I meen that the sizes of materials must match what I have in inventory. As you look at pic's notice the nice cuts from my skill saw.

I used 1"x4" and 1/2" plate for pivot and swing, the tubes are 3 1/2"x4 1/2" and all pins are 1 1/8".
 

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   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#4  
The bucket is made from 3/16" plate that I bought as scrap at .32 per lb.
It is 11" deep by 18" long and 15" wide. Here's the pic's.
PS this is as far as I've gotten on the hoe in 16 hours of work. More to come.
 

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   / Hoe and toter #5  
Nice shop.:D How about a close up of the steering assembly. Will the hydraulics have it's own power source?
 
   / Hoe and toter #6  
Yea, that doesn't look like your typical steering sector.
David from jax
 
   / Hoe and toter #7  
Nice work on the bucket. How did you bend the 3/16 to form the contour around the sides ? I have a 16" but would like a 24". The price they get for them is quite high. This may be a great alternative.
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Joe, If you look again at pic bh16 you will see it's sitting on 2 channels and was tacked down on back side as viewed with plate to be bent standing up. I hung a chain hoist on top with chain hooked down to support under channals. Pull the chain and it will bend. I tacked as I was bending to keep everything where I wanted it.

Here's a shot of the v-belt steering.
 

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   / Hoe and toter #10  
BTDT said:
Will the hydraulics have it's own power source?


either he is going to use liner motors for the hydraulics or hes just useing them to protype with.....
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Steve it is good to test with as it's got a 12"stroke.

I will be matting the 11hp briggs to the pump as the trans will be in neutral while working.
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Got a little more done this morning. These pic's are only with 12" of stroke. I do believe that 18" will work great.
 

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   / Hoe and toter #13  
Whee did you get your hoe plans from?
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Here's a link if the forum will alow it to post as this is the 5 try after typing. Sometimes it don't like me.








Free Plans Database


Sorry about the spaces. Only way I could get the link to post.

Remember I said loosely based.
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Got all but swing cylinders mounted but only had enought hose to test the ones for booms. I found out I have way to much flow. Maybe the other set of spools will feather better.
 

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   / Hoe and toter #16  
Looking good. I took a look at those plans and loaded the dimensions into autocad this evening to see how I liked the plan and also to see how difficult it would be to adapt it to a frame mount for my tractor(don't want to pay $3.5K+ for a hoe) One think I don't like are the cylinder tabs in the middle of the boom sidewall. The tabs have a pretty good footprint at 1" X 3", but it is placing a lot of side or shear load on that quarter inch tube wall. If I build it, I think I would add triangular side plates that come up alongside the tabs and use a longer pin that engages all three tabs. This will spread the load to the stronger side walls. Back at the bend in the main boom, I think I would incorporate a larger triangular or diamond shaped plate on both sides that did this as well as gussetted/reenforced that welded joint. I see you added side reenforcement plates over that welded bend. I also see that you went with a shorter boom lift cylinder and moved the attachment down below the bend. I think that will put more stress on that bend joint. Did you do this because you already had the cylinder, or for some other reason? Unless you are trying to pull stumps straight up, I guess all that bend has to really do is lift the dipper and bucket and maybe break a bit of soil upward at the near end of the ditch. That different leverage point closer to the boom pivot point may lower your available boom lifting force.

With a frame mount, I think I can incorporate a lifting mechanism for transport using my 3PH lift arms. I have nearly 5.5GPM available from my pump so that is a little over 5 seconds to fully extend a 3" X 16" cylinder under light load.

DId you make any mods to the swing cylinder configuration from the plans? Playing around with the dimensions given for the pivot and cylinder mounting brackets, it looks as if it will be able to swing quite a ways to the left(80-90 degrees) when the cylinder retracts, but only about 54-55 degrees to the right before the cylinder rod starts to interfere with the pivot point.

Please keep the pics comming, I am very interested how it works out for you.
 
   / Hoe and toter #17  
Wow, huh!!! Thats a neat website. It's funny alot of those have some old dates to them. Good Luck!
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Ron, I very loosely followed those plans as the only thing I've bought was steel for the bucket. The swing pivot plates are 1" thick with all pins except for cylinders being 1 1/8" and 3/8" inside gusset plates in booms. I am using 3/8" gussets also at cylinder tabs also as I had the same concerneds as of strenth. I found out that the swing was limited to one side and am working that out now in my mind as the only engineering training i have is sdadetree.

At this time I see this changing to subframe mount to first mount on my VAC Case

More to come..
 
   / Hoe and toter
  • Thread Starter
#19  
If one cylinder wasn't enought, maybe 4 will be. Still need to add fuel and oil tanks, pump, battery and electric cooling fan. Pump will be mounted at rear end of jackshaft under starter. Here's a couple of pic's
 

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   / Hoe and toter #20  
Cletus, you said to notice the clean cuts with your skillsaw and I did. They look good to me. Are you using an abrasive blade or one of the "cold cut" blades? I use a A/C torch and a DeWalt chop saw, but want a "cold cut". I was just wondering which you use. later, Nat
 

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