Hoisting an I-beam …

OkeeDon · Dec 5, 2004

I think that putting HardiPlank on studs without a backing would be cutting it a bit close. You'd be fine as long as you never get close to it with a FEL, but if you did hit it hard enough with a small enough impact area, it would break rather than dent, and would be tough to repair. Personally, I'd rather have something -- anything -- behind it. Therefore, although I've never personally done it, I think I'd look for one of the fairly high density insulation boards, maybe 3/4" thick, and put it up first -- you'd only need enough fasteners to keep it from slipping, because the nails for the HardiPlank would go through it and anchor everything. The foam alone is weak and the HardiPlank alone is brittle, but the two together would be a tough, impact resistant surface. Plus, you gain the advantage of the insulation and accomplish it at a more reasonable price than sheathing, unless I'm totally screwed up on the cost of the foam boards...

Hardi most likely wouldn't transmit the irregularities of the underlying structure, as it is pretty darn stiff -- anything so far out of line to cause the Hardi to bend would leave a big gap between a board and the structure. Caulking and nailing are a piece of cake. I've nailed lots of it with a hammer, but I normally use hot-dip galvanized, ring shank nails in my Porter Cable framing air nailer.

I agree that it can look terrible if done poorly, but from my experience, that is from not keeping the horizontal lines perfectly parallel. I had my son-in-law and a friend of his do one wall of my commercial building, and I had to rip it down and do it again -- they had wavy lines working against each other, making the boards wider in some places and narrower in others. A laser level and a little care handles that problem.

I guess we have sort of hijacked this thread, but since the beam is already in place I don't think it will hurt too much. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

AndyM · Dec 5, 2004

4 x 8 sheets of HardiPanels need to have a backer like OSB behind them or does that only apply to the HardiPlank lap siding? I had assumed that these panels could be installed directly to the studs or girts like T1-11 siding.
If I need a backing, such as OSB, then I might as well stick with vinyl siding.

Holzster · Dec 6, 2004

What is the price of renting a SkyTrac forklift? Thats what I did cheap ($100/day delivered if I remember right).

Fungus · Dec 7, 2004

Well, I decided to stick to my original plan & use the HardiPlank. After getting a piece I’m happy with the strength on 16” OC framing. Since this was my plan I have studs located at all butt joints for the HardiPlank on the outside and for plywood sheathing on the inside. Because of this my actual stud spacing is less than 16” OC.

I found this company, Tamlyn & Sons, that offers PCV coners (PlankCorner), butt joints (PlankSeam) and a starter strip (LapStart) specifically for fiber cement. This should eliminate a lot of the caulking at these points. Kind of pricey & special order but I’m going to give it a try.

Thanks for the advice…

GerardC · Dec 7, 2004

( I found this company, Tamlyn & Sons, that offers PCV coners (PlankCorner), butt joints (PlankSeam) and a starter strip (LapStart) specifically for fiber cement. This should eliminate a lot of the caulking at these points. Kind of pricey & special order but I’m going to give it a try.)

I would do the same thing as I'd see it as a maintenance issue. It should be money well spent. Gerard

yooperdave · Dec 14, 2004

Hi Fungus,

How are you making the connection between the wood rafters and the steel beam? Are you bolting some wood plates to the top of the beam so you can still use Simpson style connectors?

Thanks

Yooper Dave

Fungus · Dec 15, 2004

I used a strap tie on top and a mending plate on the side - see attachment...

Cliff_Johns · Dec 16, 2004

So what holds the peak down? That's not obvious from the picture. Or do you figure that the hurricane ties at the eves and the peak straps combine to hold the roof sufficiently rigid?

Cliff

yooperdave · Dec 16, 2004

Are you concerned with the notch on the tension side of the rafter? The notch may induce a crack and reduce the intended capacity of the rafter.

What also holds the rafter down at the ridge from wind uplift loading? Can the rafters as detailed laterally brace the steel beam? Were you going to add blocking between the rafters and connect it to the top flange of the beam?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am not familiar with these details.

Good Luck

Yooper Dave

Fungus · Dec 16, 2004

Yep, I figured these questions would follow.

( So what holds the peak down?)

As it is right now the peak is just resting on the beam. I do figure between the straps and wall hold-downs there’s enough to keep it from blowing away. Were not in a high wind or special wind region. Also, the exposure category is very low due to all the surrounding oak tress. If you think about it, a standard gable roof does not have the ridge tied to the foundation either. It depends on the wall hold-downs and the ridge staying together, hence the straps.

However, I am considering extending the bottom of the rafter up under the beam flange. Nothing like a little insurance…

( Are you concerned with the notch on the tension side of the rafter?)

No, it’s standard practice to notch the tail end. What’s the difference if one or both ends get notched? Most of the tension (bottom side) and compression (top side) occurs out in the middle, not at the ends.

I am a little concerned about wood quality. For my loads No. 2 is adequate for the span. I sorted through a lot of DF to find some decent stuff. I can’t believe what the contractors use!

( Can the rafters as detailed laterally brace the steel beam?)

The rafters do provide lateral support but it’s only as good as the top of the walls (not a whole lot). Although the beam does not depend on any lateral support it will wobble when pushed on from the side. I’m hoping once I get my roof sheathing installed things will stiffen up some more.

Please note that where I’m at there are no codes or inspections. You can do whatever you want just as long as you’re willing to live with the consequences.

Finished installing the rafters and lookouts (see attachment). Now I’m getting the fascia installed. So far winter has been kind & I’m hoping to get the roof on before it finally gets here.

Don’t mind the questions.