Homemade Cab for Deere 2320 CUT

[Huskerplowboy]

Looking good Husker, and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished cab.

I assume the MMM is your only mower, so I suspect a ballast box plus your loader riding as low as possible should help to counter any extra weight the cab adds.

Yes, the MMM is my only mower for the 2320. The loader low, ballast box tricks would work except I don't have a ballast box (use the snowblower or box blade when doing loader work) and the ditches and other spots where things get tippy also require raising the loader to get in and out of them. Plus, I hardly ever mow with the loader or 3-point implement on because they get in the way, just make the machine too cumbersome to mow around buildings, etc. I'll do it when I'm in a hurry and don't want to take the 60 seconds to park the loader, but that's not too often. With nothing on the front or back, this thing's a pretty sweet lawnmower though, makes running my 155C lawn tractor a chore... That's why I usually mow around the house with the little lawn tractor first, before I'm spoiled by bigger tires and power steering!

 

[Huskerplowboy]

A quick note to thank folks for the encouragement. I am enjoying the project so far, helps to hear encouraging words from you folks.

 

[Huskerplowboy]

Stage 2.4: Fabrication and fitting of fore-aft tubes at roofline

After tacking up the front mounts to anchor the front frame in one spot, I got back to work on the bolt-in tubes to tie the front and rear frames together at the roof. I had managed to get the tubes cut a few days ago, with goofy angles on the ends and everything. On the side of the tubes that would face to the inside of the cab, I used a hole saw and the grinder to cut 4" long notches in from the ends. These will allow the tube to slide in onto tabs which are welded to the frames and provide access for tightening the bolts.

Tonight, I got to work on the LH tube. I cut 2 pieces of 3/16"x1.5" stock about 3 inches long, one for the front and one for the back. I adjusted the ends of these pieces to match the angles of the tube ends. Next, I clamped the pieces on the inside of the tube, up tight against the top wall and drilled 2 3/8" holes through both pieces. (I actually drilled smaller pilot holes through both, then openned them up individually). Once all the drilling was done, I bolted the tabs into the tube. I clamped a couple pieces of scrap steel to the outside surface, extending past the tube ends. These were used to lay up against the outside of the frames to get this tube sitting flush with them. I clamped the assembly in place and welded the small tabs to the front and rear frames. I'll now be able to unbolt the tube and finish some welding on the tabs later... I only got the LH side done before it got too dark to keep going, but just having that one tube in place has stiffened up the cab frame tremendously, and the bolts weren't even that tight yet.

Pictures below:

 

[mjncad]

A U-bolt holds each bracket to the 4" tube of the mount. The brackets had to be bent about 19 degrees to level off for mounting the cab (not sure why the loader mount tubes are at an odd angle like that). I used 1/2"x1 1/2" stock, and lacking a torch, had to slot them with a grinder to allow me to "convince" them to bend using a large crescent wrench and my vice. I then welded the groove back in. Turned out ok.

When I built the front posts for my canopy, my Wixey digital angle gauge measured the loader mounting tubes at 20-degrees. My guess is that the angle provides the proper stiffness of the loader masts during operation, yet allows the loader to be easily removed. Like you I used U-bolts to mount the front posts to the loader tubes. I have my front posts project documented in my photo galleries.

Yes, the MMM is my only mower for the 2320. The loader low, ballast box tricks would work except I don't have a ballast box (use the snowblower or box blade when doing loader work) and the ditches and other spots where things get tippy also require raising the loader to get in and out of them. Plus, I hardly ever mow with the loader or 3-point implement on because they get in the way, just make the machine too cumbersome to mow around buildings, etc. I'll do it when I'm in a hurry and don't want to take the 60 seconds to park the loader, but that's not too often. With nothing on the front or back, this thing's a pretty sweet lawnmower though, makes running my 155C lawn tractor a chore... That's why I usually mow around the house with the little lawn tractor first, before I'm spoiled by bigger tires and power steering!

I have a ballast box loaded with about 450+/- pounds of sand plus the 80+/- pounds of the box. I like the box as it doesn't stick out to far from the back to get in the way. If the loader is in the way up front, how about getting some suitcase weights to use? On my rig, the front loader mounting bracket doubles as a suitcase weight bracket.

 

[dtd24]

Nice project looking good. What are you thinking about the windows? I was wondering about how to keep them from frosting or fogging up. I did see the possibility of a heater which would help. Just thinking.

Nice fab work!!!

 

[canoetrpr]

Wow! Looks fabulous so far.

 

[BlackRaptor]

that looks great.
I can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[WilliamBos]

Looks Great!! I will be following this thread. We have a 1523 that could use on too!!

 

[Gizmo2]

A quick note to thank folks for the encouragement. I am enjoying the project so far, helps to hear encouraging words from you folks.

OK, OK I'm in with following the thread. Want some encouragement, make me one for my 2320 and I'll advertise it for free. You'll make big $$$$

 

[joes_427_vette]

Great work so far. I was wondering is 2" tube overkill or would 1 1/2" be ok ? I was wondering if you researched this or had the 2" available. The tubing is really rigid for what it weighs and ideal for this type of project. Can't wait to see the door frames.