Homemade ROPS

   / Homemade ROPS #31  
Would you be willing to share your measurements for your ROPS mount? I've got a YM226D and and wonder if your ROPS mount would fit.

The factory mount not only bolts to the front facing of the PTO housing, but also bolts to three points on each side of the housing. It doesn't appear to tie to the fender mounts.

I looked for a factory ROPs recently. Curious that I could find all kind of ROPS for grey market units, but not this domestic 226D.

Besides some terrific welding as others have mentioned, I would add that it's not so easy to figure out how to fit a ROPS mount around all the projections on these tractors. And there's not a lot of space to work with, either.
 

Attachments

  • yanmar factory rops mounts.jpg
    yanmar factory rops mounts.jpg
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   / Homemade ROPS #32  
Svcguy, I couldn't help but notice the home made press you have . How many tons is that jack, I have thought of making one myself and was wondering about the size of the springs to use for closing the jack.Is htat ready rod running from the top plate over the jack to the base and if it is what size is it, can I get a close up of your jack, are there anythings you wish you had done different when making the press.
 
   / Homemade ROPS #33  
Svcguy, I think the way you used the gussets and over all design is well more that enought for a tracvtor that weights twice what that one does. I wouldn't worry about the 1/4" as in that design I would of trusted 1/8".

JM2CW
 
   / Homemade ROPS #34  
I have some reservations because of an incident previously posted in a forum on this site where a strongly welded ROPS held, but the tractor itself broke. http://www.public-health.uiowa.edu/face/Reports/PDF-Reports/Rops-Rollover%20Final.pdf

Part of the support for the ROPS mount in this thread involves bolting the mount to the fender brackets. The fender brackets on my YM226 are on top of the axle, and not bolted by any kind of U bolts under the axle.

Although bolting the ROPS mount to the face of the rear PTO housing will certainly make the ROPS mounting more secure, the factory mount does bolt to three bolts on each side of the PTO housing via a simple piece of angle.

In view of the factory mounting, it would seem to make sense to add some angle that can be bolted to the sides of the PTO if the YM240 PTO housing is built the same as my ym226.
 

Attachments

  • factory mount drawing.pdf
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   / Homemade ROPS
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Hi Everyone, sorry I was absent for the past week. We have large wildfires in British Columbia and I am responsible for structural protection here. I really like the factory drawings. My design was based on an after market bar. As soon as I get back from the fires I will comment. Tom
 
   / Homemade ROPS #36  
I think it is a great job svcguy. I have seen far worse "factory units". Sometimes I am amazed at the material used by the factory for ROPS. The gussets will make it incredibly strong.

When I crank up the old sparc and ark I rely on the 6011 and 6013 rods. My favorites.
 
   / Homemade ROPS
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Hi everyone, back from the fires. I looked at my YM240D and see that being the age it is, it doesn't have the side bolt possibility on the housing. Apparently, it's just too old. This tractor was built before ROPS were standard and the aftermarket ROPS does use the four bolts surrounding the PTO and the axle flange bolts. I am familiar with several tragic examples of where homemade ROPS failed, but none were attached as ROPS; they were attached as sunshades. A quick look at the excellent link provided should make it clear, you can't attach a ROPS like a sunshade. My attachment system (rear casting and axle flanges) is taken from a certified ROPS for the 240D. It distributes the attachment over the largest casting of the tractor, as well as adding the strength of 90 degree gussets to each axle. While I like that clean, one point angle attachment provided in the Yanmar parts drawing, I doubt it provides any greater strength than the rear end and the axle flange attachments. With both of these attachments at 90 degrees to each other and reinforced with gussets, it increases the strength tremendously over a sunshade attachment. Look closely at the link, it's hard to believe anyone would have believed in that attachment. It failed for good reason. The bar looked good, it's how they attached it. Think of it this way. When attached just at the axles (like in the link example), the flanges have a high probability of failure. If attached only at the rear (PTO area), the bar may fail at the single attachment point. When attached to both points and reinforced, the strength is increased ten fold.

Not sure if this ROPS would fit a 226, as I am not familiar with it. I would find a 226 equiv in grey market and study those.

I made the press about 25 years ago. It uses a 12 ton jack and the return springs were purchased at a hardware store. The ready rod is 3/4 inch diam and provides about 40,000 pounds of tension before failure. The press is no prize, but has earned my respect over the years. I am amazed at what that unit has accomplished. If I was to do it all over again, I would use two pieces of angle for each side column rather than the channel. This would allow for fitting long unwieldly items between the supports.

By the way, several people have expressed frustration over writing out a reply and then losing it when trying to post. I avoid this by hilighting everything I wrote with the mouse, then copying it to memory before posting. If I have been knocked off or expired out, I simply call up a blank post, paste it back and attempt posting it again. That way you don't ever lose what you wrote.

Again, really enjoyed all of the comments and questions.
 
   / Homemade ROPS #38  
svcguy said:
To be honest, I think 90 percent of good welding is preparation. Before welding, I grind every surface that will take a bead.

Any suggestions on an inexpensive type air grinder for this type work. I'm gonna be buying one soon and saw some at Home Depot in the $30-50 range.

Thanks
 
   / Homemade ROPS #39  
I started with an air tool and switched to an electric grinder. My 3 hp compressor wouldn't keep up, was loud, and I didn't like hooking up an air hose. An electric grinder is more convenient.

I just bought a refurb Black and Decker grinder for $25 at a B & D outlet last week. Still using a Skil professional model 951 grinder I bought years ago for about $60 and still using a cheap chinese grinder that for some reason keeps going. But I would say that $20 and under grinders aren't going to last very long, and to look for a higher quality grinder.

Why do I have three? Put a wire brush on one, a grinding wheel on another, and a cut off wheel on the third one.

Get yourself some hearing protection, face shield and dust mask, too.
 
   / Homemade ROPS #40  
where can i find rops for 80s ford 2110 cant find one.cant wield very good
 

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