Homemade ROPS

[weldingisfun]

Great lesson, svcguy! Are you a teacher? You should be.
Thanks.

 

[KubotainNH]

Svcguy, thanks for the post on rods. Very informative. I copied the text and e-mailed to myself for future use. I was thinking my rods were sticking because of the amperage setting. Obviously not per your post. I think this thread is a keeper.

 

[svcguy]

I don't want to over extend myself on this thread, but it seems like there is an interest in the welding part of this project. Since welders often shy away from vertical welding (usually from a bad first experience), I thought I would toss in a couple of thoughts on it. The truth is that vertical welding is not difficult and should pose no more challenge than welding on the flat. It's probably 85% rod and amperage, 10% technique and the rest being practice. Once you can weld decently on the flat, it usually takes an hour or so to really get vertical, so don't be discouraged, but here are a couple of tips to take away the pain.

Use 6011 for AC machines and either 6010 or 6011 for DC. Both rods are deep penetration and fast freeze. The control of molten metal when welding flat is pretty much a non issue, but on the vertical it is. If you have been discouraged by molten weld running down or falling from your work, take heart, it's an easy correction. Using a 1/4 inch or thicker piece of steel, try this:

Turn the amperage down to about 80 - 100 amps depending on your machine.

Start at the bottom and weld up -

As soon as you get the arc established, draw a long arc for a few seconds to heat up the metal. Once the metal appears to be melting, begin what is called a vertical whip. You move your stick into the weld crater with a short arc, pause for a moment, then move the rod up out of the crater (just above it) with a long arc (try 1/4 inch or so at first). This allows the original weld deposit to cool slightly, then you move back down and in with the short arc (slightly above the first), deposit some weld, up and out with a long arc and just repeat. At first it will seem like a mess, but the key is a long arc while the first crater cools, then moving down again and in with the short arc just long enough to get good penetration before getting out again.

It's really not difficult, it's just no one ever much talks about it. While your best welding will almost always be on the flat, there will be times that vertical can't be avoided, so it's probably good to know how to do it. And it's best not to attempt it before practicing on some scrap.

This is vertical up which is used for heavier steel, 1/4 inch or more.

 

[Kernopelli]

svcguy, what an awesome job. You are obviously an excellent fabricator and welder. I am currently taking the easy route as far as welding goes, I use a Lincoln mig but found your tutorial full of very good info. I have to agree on several points you touched on. I quickly learned that preparation was the key to good welds. With my unit it is easy to lay down beautiful beads when welding well prepared metal. The least amount of rust,paint or grease will leave me with a spattered, nonuniform mess though. I also agree on your use of grade 8 bolts and multiple attachment points. I too made the ROPS for my tractor and feel very comfortable that it will withstand a roll over. I used the same methodology as far as bolts,attachment, gusseting etc. There is no question that it (and yours as well) is better attached and at least as strong as a factory unit. A quick word of advice though, after using my tractor for three years without ROPS, it took some time to get used to having it. I tore more limbs off my trees than I care to think about and even worse, not all of them break...the ones that don't usually smack you on the back of the head or rake across your neck as you keep going forward

 

[mjncad]

svcguy:

Do you have welding words of wisdom to pass on to us guys who have MIG welders? I'm using a Millermatic 210 and I'm happy with it. I know PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE is the key; but unfortunately I don't always have the time. Therefore tips from a guy who knows how to weld are most appreciated.

Thanks,

 

[svcguy]

If I could, I would, but to be very honest, my experience with MIG welding is limited. I've been welding stick for 35 years and tend to stay with it. Although I have a MIG, I am sure there are others that would be far more experienced than myself.

A good friend of mine is absolutely the MIG meister, and I could ask him for any words of wisdom. A mill wright during the day, Dale builds custom motorcycles in his spare time. Talk about talented, he is building a Lotus Super 7 from scratch at the moment and uses the MIG daily (both at work and play). His welding looks like it's done using robotics. My welding pales in comparison.

 

[hogi]

Excellent tutorial svcguy, I wonder if its not too much trouble if you could tell us about in a little more detail how you did the rest of the fabrication. Maybe some pictures of your shop and equipment. For instance how did you cut your flat stock for your rops? I don't mean to hound you but its your own fault for being such a high quality fabricator, a lot of us want to get somewhere close to where you are.

 

[svcguy]

Not much detail to fab the ROPS. I cut the plate with oxy-propane and finished the edges with a grinder. All metal was cleaned up with a wire knot brush. Tube was cut with a chop saw. I am actually pretty lucky with what I have for a shop, but the ROPS was all pretty low tech. Attached are a few pictures of my shop, although the mill is still in the basement and needs to be moved. Missing from the pictures is the bench, power hack saw, rotary table, torches and benders. It's a home shop pretty much like everyone elses I think, nothing too earth shattering.

In the one shot you can see a 4 hp stover hit and miss on the engine stand. Just came out of the electrolysis tank and finishing up some detail. Oh, and a electrolysis tank.

Picture added of the stover engine block casting after electrolysis. It sat outside for 40 years before salvaging it.

 

[mjncad]

You're a modest man svcguy! My shop should be as neat, organized and equipped as yours!

 

[river rat]

This has been one of the best and most informative threads I've ever seen on TBN - excellent job, svcguy!
I've welded for years, and still learned some new stuff!
The mounting on the ROPS looks a little weak to me, and I usually use 1/2" steel for things that were 1/4" or so in yours, but then I'm bad to overbuild, too. Still, I have to keep reminding myself that it's purpose isn't to keep your hood from being dented when dropped from an airplane, but to instead turn, as you stated, a roll into a flop. You can survive being dumped on the ground, but not having even a 1700# small tractor sitting on you.
Again, kudos for making this thread a great read!

 

[2manyrocks]

Would you be willing to share your measurements for your ROPS mount? I've got a YM226D and and wonder if your ROPS mount would fit.

The factory mount not only bolts to the front facing of the PTO housing, but also bolts to three points on each side of the housing. It doesn't appear to tie to the fender mounts.

I looked for a factory ROPs recently. Curious that I could find all kind of ROPS for grey market units, but not this domestic 226D.

Besides some terrific welding as others have mentioned, I would add that it's not so easy to figure out how to fit a ROPS mount around all the projections on these tractors. And there's not a lot of space to work with, either.

 

[fiddler kelly]

Svcguy, I couldn't help but notice the home made press you have . How many tons is that jack, I have thought of making one myself and was wondering about the size of the springs to use for closing the jack.Is htat ready rod running from the top plate over the jack to the base and if it is what size is it, can I get a close up of your jack, are there anythings you wish you had done different when making the press.

 

[cleatus]

Svcguy, I think the way you used the gussets and over all design is well more that enought for a tracvtor that weights twice what that one does. I wouldn't worry about the 1/4" as in that design I would of trusted 1/8".

JM2CW

 

[2manyrocks]

I have some reservations because of an incident previously posted in a forum on this site where a strongly welded ROPS held, but the tractor itself broke. http://www.public-health.uiowa.edu/face/Reports/PDF-Reports/Rops-Rollover%20Final.pdf

Part of the support for the ROPS mount in this thread involves bolting the mount to the fender brackets. The fender brackets on my YM226 are on top of the axle, and not bolted by any kind of U bolts under the axle.

Although bolting the ROPS mount to the face of the rear PTO housing will certainly make the ROPS mounting more secure, the factory mount does bolt to three bolts on each side of the PTO housing via a simple piece of angle.

In view of the factory mounting, it would seem to make sense to add some angle that can be bolted to the sides of the PTO if the YM240 PTO housing is built the same as my ym226.

 

[svcguy]

Hi Everyone, sorry I was absent for the past week. We have large wildfires in British Columbia and I am responsible for structural protection here. I really like the factory drawings. My design was based on an after market bar. As soon as I get back from the fires I will comment. Tom

 

[purplewg]

I think it is a great job svcguy. I have seen far worse "factory units". Sometimes I am amazed at the material used by the factory for ROPS. The gussets will make it incredibly strong.

When I crank up the old sparc and ark I rely on the 6011 and 6013 rods. My favorites.

 

[svcguy]

Hi everyone, back from the fires. I looked at my YM240D and see that being the age it is, it doesn't have the side bolt possibility on the housing. Apparently, it's just too old. This tractor was built before ROPS were standard and the aftermarket ROPS does use the four bolts surrounding the PTO and the axle flange bolts. I am familiar with several tragic examples of where homemade ROPS failed, but none were attached as ROPS; they were attached as sunshades. A quick look at the excellent link provided should make it clear, you can't attach a ROPS like a sunshade. My attachment system (rear casting and axle flanges) is taken from a certified ROPS for the 240D. It distributes the attachment over the largest casting of the tractor, as well as adding the strength of 90 degree gussets to each axle. While I like that clean, one point angle attachment provided in the Yanmar parts drawing, I doubt it provides any greater strength than the rear end and the axle flange attachments. With both of these attachments at 90 degrees to each other and reinforced with gussets, it increases the strength tremendously over a sunshade attachment. Look closely at the link, it's hard to believe anyone would have believed in that attachment. It failed for good reason. The bar looked good, it's how they attached it. Think of it this way. When attached just at the axles (like in the link example), the flanges have a high probability of failure. If attached only at the rear (PTO area), the bar may fail at the single attachment point. When attached to both points and reinforced, the strength is increased ten fold.

Not sure if this ROPS would fit a 226, as I am not familiar with it. I would find a 226 equiv in grey market and study those.

I made the press about 25 years ago. It uses a 12 ton jack and the return springs were purchased at a hardware store. The ready rod is 3/4 inch diam and provides about 40,000 pounds of tension before failure. The press is no prize, but has earned my respect over the years. I am amazed at what that unit has accomplished. If I was to do it all over again, I would use two pieces of angle for each side column rather than the channel. This would allow for fitting long unwieldly items between the supports.

By the way, several people have expressed frustration over writing out a reply and then losing it when trying to post. I avoid this by hilighting everything I wrote with the mouse, then copying it to memory before posting. If I have been knocked off or expired out, I simply call up a blank post, paste it back and attempt posting it again. That way you don't ever lose what you wrote.

Again, really enjoyed all of the comments and questions.

 

[curly]

To be honest, I think 90 percent of good welding is preparation. Before welding, I grind every surface that will take a bead.

Any suggestions on an inexpensive type air grinder for this type work. I'm gonna be buying one soon and saw some at Home Depot in the $30-50 range.

Thanks

 

[2manyrocks]

I started with an air tool and switched to an electric grinder. My 3 hp compressor wouldn't keep up, was loud, and I didn't like hooking up an air hose. An electric grinder is more convenient.

I just bought a refurb Black and Decker grinder for $25 at a B & D outlet last week. Still using a Skil professional model 951 grinder I bought years ago for about $60 and still using a cheap chinese grinder that for some reason keeps going. But I would say that $20 and under grinders aren't going to last very long, and to look for a higher quality grinder.

Why do I have three? Put a wire brush on one, a grinding wheel on another, and a cut off wheel on the third one.

Get yourself some hearing protection, face shield and dust mask, too.

 

[timco]

where can i find rops for 80s ford 2110 cant find one.cant wield very good