How difficult to install factory Kubota rear remote kit?

[RancherGuy]

Ok thanks guys.

I've got another newbie question for y'all, that I can't quite figure from the manual:
transmission oil and hydraulic oil - are these one and the same?

You got your "yes" answer, but to expand upon the reasoning: tractors are designed to use hydraulic oil for ... hydraulics, power steering, gear transmissions, HST ... essentially everything except the engine. So they design the body of the tractor as one big "return tank / storage tank" for all of that. This is why it is all the same oil. This also explains why it is critical that you ensure the level is correct. When it goes too low, things suffer. The most common reason for loss may be a leaking hydraulic cylinder ... a little here, a little there ... and before you know it behavior of something changes because it does not have the oil it requires.

Ask me how I know? My JD 5000 was loosing some when my hydraulic hay rake was attached and operating. I was not attentive to the tractor's level. The LHR was no longer working and the repair shop said the tractor was 9 gallons low. During the process, the transmission control valve got plugged up and the bell housing was full of oil. After splitting the tractor and replacing parts, total cost to me was $5,000.

 

[s219]

Oh wow, thanks Shish, that does definitely help. Looks like mine is no where near in far enough.
I will be removing the fender again and checking that threaded rod/bolt to make sure it is in all the way. It was hard to get a grip on it when trying to tighten it, since it just has threads on either end and no head to put a spanner on. So I will try some vice grips.

Thank you also to the others for your comments/reassurance.

bdhsfz6 you are right, most of the work is in getting to the area to fit the unit. Next time I would remove the wheel as well as the fender like you said.

I remember vividly when doing the kit on my L3200 many years ago that one of the studs holding the valve stack to the transmission case did not want to go in as far (would have never known except the other stud went in much farther). I put two nuts on it, tightened against each other, and then was able to use a wrench to turn the stud in all the way.

I agree with your earlier comments about the instructions being bad. On mine, they clearly did the mockup and install on a tractor with a backhoe (could see in the photos), and many of the steps made no sense on my tractor without a backhoe. Especially since the backhoe inserts into the power beyond hydraulic circuit in a specific place, which governs how the remotes are supposed to hook up. I basically had to reverse engineer things and learn how the system works in order to complete the install. Yeah, I learned a lot, but it made me realize the people doing the instructions must have had very limited understanding.

The other problem I ran into is that when I installed the hoses the way the instructions called for, they blocked the range of motion of the lever for valve #2 and it would not go into detent. I thought the valve was defective until I noticed the lever was being blocked. Once I moved the hoses it was fine, but then the seat belt bracket hit the hoses when weight was put on the suspension seat. So I had to swap the seat belt spool to the other side of the seat and move the buckle back across. That puts the buckle annoyingly close to my PTO toggle but it all works. Apparently nobody bothered to check that the various types of valve options offered by Kubota would actually fit properly in all three positions. I am just glad I only have two valves, since three would surely have been an impossible fit despite being a factory option.