How do you make a hydraulic top link float?

[mars1952]

Why spend $$$$ on modifying a hydraulic top link ? on my neighbor's pasture topper, we simply use a chain instead of a top link. the chain gives enough play to follow the land, and when you lift it, it leans over about 4 inches until th chains are tight and that's the trick...

Later design pasture topper have the 3pt lift frame attached to 2 pivot points, which are braced by 2 chains to the rear of the mower, so you can use your normal top link, which means no need for a chain with wide enough links on both ends to put a top link bolt through.

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Hi Renze: The land is very hilly on My Farm in Western North Carolina. The ground is very uneven. Often I need to lift the mower as high as it will go to maneuver around obstacles the hydraulic top link will allow me to lift the mower higher. Also I mow very steep pasture. A 3PH implement with a strong linkage system will help the tractor resist a rear rollover. A mower with chain linkage would offer no resistance in case of a rear rollover.

I plan on strengthening the linkage on my brush cutter. The strap linkage that came with it folded up like noodles one day when I caught the mower on a hidden stump and the mower stood up on end behind the tractor.
Thanks for asking, Marshall

 

[SFish]

Marshall:

Your place looks like it has the same sort of terrain as my West Virginia property, except mine is more wooded. I mowed my open areas for 15 years with a 5' Bush Hog on a Ford NH 1320. Both the property and tractor are for sale because I have moved to Northern CA where the ground is even steeper and I have a new JD 3320. I know exactly what your problem is- the ability to float the mower, but still be able to lift it high enough to drive or clear stumps. I think a hydraulic solution, however you work it out, is the only way to go.

That said, the way my Bush Hog works is the attchment frame for the 3 pt pivoted on the mower deck and chains are attached to the back to lift it, but allowed it to pivot up. This was very useful when backing into a steep hill to mow or turn around, it would just tilt up. This arrangement prevents damage to the mower. I mowed a gas line right-of-way that was so steep that it was hard to walk and 4-wheelers had trouble if they lost momentum. I never had the front end lift even though the tractor was rated for a smaller mower (I always mowed with the loader on). If I lost traction I would just back up and try a different line, or wait for better soil conditions. If you are light in the front on hills you may need to rebalance your tractor.

If I had had a hydraulic top link on the Ford I could have just lowered the link so that the chains would be loose and allow the mower to float on its rear tire and the lower 3 point arms. Raising the link and the 3 point hitch would get the mower up high.

Steve

 

[JerryG]

I will second the suggestion of using a chain. I have been using one for about 3 years now and wouldn't have anything else. Be careful retracting the hydraulic cylinder all the way with the brush hog raised because if the three point is raised the PTO shaft may hit the deck. Even if it doesn't there is a chance that you may knock out a u-joint with the angle.

 

[mars1952]

Be careful retracting the hydraulic cylinder all the way with the brush hog raised because if the three point is raised the PTO shaft may hit the deck. Even if it doesn't there is a chance that you may knock out a u-joint with the angle.

Hi Jerry:
That's a good point. I will try to make sure that the linkage is setup to prevent contact with the deck. I was more worried about breaking the PTO shaft because of too much angle.
Thanks, Marshall

 

[mars1952]

Hi Steve:
I mow with my loader on too. So far I haven't had any trouble with the front of the tractor lifting while going up hills but I like to be prepared in case it does happen. On the really steep hills I mow in reverse up the hill and forward down the hill.
Thanks, Marshall

Marshall:

Your place looks like it has the same sort of terrain as my West Virginia property, except mine is more wooded. I mowed my open areas for 15 years with a 5' Bush Hog on a Ford NH 1320. Both the property and tractor are for sale because I have moved to Northern CA where the ground is even steeper and I have a new JD 3320. I know exactly what your problem is- the ability to float the mower, but still be able to lift it high enough to drive or clear stumps. I think a hydraulic solution, however you work it out, is the only way to go.

That said, the way my Bush Hog works is the attchment frame for the 3 pt pivoted on the mower deck and chains are attached to the back to lift it, but allowed it to pivot up. This was very useful when backing into a steep hill to mow or turn around, it would just tilt up. This arrangement prevents damage to the mower. I mowed a gas line right-of-way that was so steep that it was hard to walk and 4-wheelers had trouble if they lost momentum. I never had the front end lift even though the tractor was rated for a smaller mower (I always mowed with the loader on). If I lost traction I would just back up and try a different line, or wait for better soil conditions. If you are light in the front on hills you may need to rebalance your tractor.

If I had had a hydraulic top link on the Ford I could have just lowered the link so that the chains would be loose and allow the mower to float on its rear tire and the lower 3 point arms. Raising the link and the 3 point hitch would get the mower up high.

Steve

 

[GT2]

What about some type of mechanical sliding link?
Kind of a tube in a tube with slots in one tube, then thru bolted.
It would float like a chain but the thru bolt would stop any extreme movement.
you could make multiple "stop" holes.

 

[Renze]

A 3PH implement with a strong linkage system will help the tractor resist a rear rollover. A mower with chain linkage would offer no resistance in case of a rear rollover.

Because the 3pt lift system also offers very little downpressure other than its own weight, i dont think it will make any difference. If the hill is so steep that the front end of your tractor comes up, the angle of where the 3pt lift starts to give any real resistance (with lift arms in upper position) PLUS the angle of the hill you're driving on, is so darned steep that your fate has already been decided.

Plus, a floating hydraulic top link will allow the tractor to uprise in the same danger zone as a chain would.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Because the 3pt lift system also offers very little downpressure other than its own weight, i dont think it will make any difference. If the hill is so steep that the front end of your tractor comes up, the angle of where the 3pt lift starts to give any real resistance (with lift arms in upper position) PLUS the angle of the hill you're driving on, is so darned steep that your fate has already been decided.

Plus, a floating hydraulic top link will allow the tractor to uprise in the same danger zone as a chain would.

yeah, thats what I think too. However, hydraulically extending the top link quickly on something as long as a bushog may be enuf if the 3pt mount on the bushog is rigid.
larry

 

[HydrauLink]

This is certainly too late for this conversation but just as a reference, our HydrauLink does have a self-adjusting feature to follow the contours of the ground.

 

[Rustyrat]

I am new to "tractoring". Can someone explain how a chain is used with a rotary cutter to help "float" the attachment? Possibly a picture?