How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[s219]

I am curious to know how various people do this -- I am looking into hauling a CUT on a 76"x14' landscape trailer (tandem axle with wood decking and rear gate). This trailer looks ideal for me, but doesn't have tiedowns, and of course with a wood deck there are no chain slots.

I know landscapers around here don't even tie their equipment down for local transport -- they drive on and set the brake.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

Use grade 1/2" Grade 70 Transport Chain - yes overkill at Working load limit 11,300 lbs, but safety first.

Use 1/2" - 5/8" Ratchet Chain Binders they seem to make things tighter.

Lastly if you want Block the tires.

 

[mjncad]

How big is your CUT as 14' seems kind of short to me to balance the load properly.

 

[greasemonkeyok]

A 14' landscape trailer may not have axles (ie 3,500 lb) and frame rated for carrying a CUT unless it is a small one.

 

[jeffsw6]

Be careful about the gate also. You don't want to damage it!

 

[JB4310]

I know landscapers around here don't even tie their equipment down for local transport -- they drive on and set the brake.

That's really foolish, to say the least.

Does your trailer have stake pockets at least? 14 foot is small, you will only fit the tractor, no implements.

If there are no stake pockets or other means to attach tie downs. you would have to get some D-rings welded on, that's if the tractor fits and the trailer is rated high enough for the load.

JB

 

[s219]

The tractor is a Kubota B2920. It measures out at 12'6" or so with the front loader and empty three-point. The trailer has tandem axles, each 3500lb.

By my estimates, the 14' trailer bed and its axle locations should give me a couple feet of leeway to get the tractor centered for proper balance. A 12' trailer might be doable but the FEL may have to overhang the front of the trailer a bit, and that sounds like a hassle.

I can step up to a 16' trailer for very little extra money, so that's an option too. Then I could keep a rear blade attached to the three-point if needed while transporting. However, the smaller I can go with the trailer, the easier it will be to stash in my yard.

By the way, the rear gate on this trailer has 2" square tubing spaced on 12" centers. It's significantly better than many of the rear gates I have been seeing. Most are just angle iron spaced about 16-20".

 

[Diamondpilot]

Get the 16' minimum. 14' trailers are a tough resale if the day ever comes. 16' opens up a whole lot of new things you can haul like cars, ect.

Just realize a gate will kill the mpg's you get. They work great for a landscaper doing local stuff a mile or two. Any long hauls at speed its terrible. Slide in ramps are a much better solution. The gate also prevents you from hauling anything longer than the trailer which I do all the time. Just yesterday got some 20' lumber on my non gated 18' trailer. No way I will have a gated trailer again.

As for tie downs. If you have none you can have some welded on at a shop or do it yourself.

As for the chians you need 5/16" grade 70 chains. 4 are needed for that load. One off each corner in a X factor. I use 4 10' pieces and two boomers on the rear. What I do is pull the tractor on, hook the two front chains on, release the tractors brakes, allow it to roll back, hook up the rear 2 chains and boom it down. I then put a heavy strap over the implement and FEL bucket.

Chris

 

[lostcause]

Double X. Front left tractor tied to front Right of the trailer. Front right tractor to front left trailer, Rear right tractor to rear left trailer, rear left tractor to rear right trailer.

Use grade 1/2" Grade 70 Transport Chain - yes overkill at Working load limit 11,300 lbs, but safety first.

Use 1/2" - 5/8" Ratchet Chain Binders they seem to make things tighter.

Lastly if you want Block the tires.

you were kidding weren't you? any compact that can fit on a 14' trailer is going to be pretty light. i use two 5/16" grade 70 to tie mine down with the loader and backhoe. four 1/2" chains would seem ridiculous. good 2"x1/4" nylon ratchet straps would be plenty adequate too.

i think that the actual model he listed later would be no more than 2500lb with the loader and fluids. kubota lists the tractor at 1550lb - i had to check multiple places, because that just seems ridiculously light. my 24hp jd770 lists 2100lb, and i can't imagine how a similar sized one can be 550lb lighter.

 

[s219]

I have done some research on the weights. The dry tractor is 1554#, the FEL adds 459#, and then loaded tires are in the 600# range. So we're talking about 2600# for the tractor. If I transport a box blade, it would add another 350-400# depending on size/construction (and if it was on the 3-pt, overall length increases to 15'2"). With fuel/fluids, I think we're looking at 3100-3300# all said and done.

For the money, looks like the 16' trailer is a no brainer. I can get one new for $2295, though I will certainly shop around for used first. The problem is, many of the used trailers I have looked at in the past need new tires or wiring repairs, and it would take some time/money to bring them back up to dependable condition. For a turnkey solution, I am leaning towards new.

This is where it gets out of hand though -- my current vehicle, which is paid off, has only 50K miles, and something I am happy with, has too low of a towing capacity for everything. So now I get into needing a bigger tow vehicle. This is a good time of year to buy an F-150 in terms of discounts and tax purposes, but of course I will look around for used options as well.

Anyhow, a $16K tractor purchase is blossoming into a $40K life changing event.