How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[s219]

How often/far do you plan on towing? I you won't be doing much, why not buy an older 3/4 or 1 ton pickup for towing? There are plenty to be had in the $5k and less which would suit you just fine if you are only towing several thousand miles a year or less. A lot cheaper than buying something new that you don't need most of the time just to haul on occasion.

Yeah, that is definitely an option. I have looked at a few used trucks and SUVs, but there haven't been any slam dunks yet. I think I will know it when I see it.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

 

[jeffsw6]

If you are only planning to tow ~5000# you can easily get a used 1/2 ton gasser for a few thousand dollars. If you like that Acura RDX don't spend a bunch of money changing your daily driver, just get an extra work truck, a cheap one! Maybe I am lucky that there is a Ford plant here (and lots of employees with "A plan" so they can get new trucks pretty cheap) but I couldn't throw a rock without hitting an F150 with a for sale sign on it.

 

[dkhntr04]

Yeah, that is definitely an option. I have looked at a few used trucks and SUVs, but there haven't been any slam dunks yet. I think I will know it when I see it.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

I'd for sure say go with an older pickup with that situation. A half ton would work great for your light loads as has been mentioned. If you are building a house, a work pickup would be a very nice thing to have around.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have to agree that a used F-150 is the way to go. Look for one with a automatic and the 5.4L with 3.73 gears. Many have 3.55 gears and are just not as up to towing. Few, and I mean a very limited few, have 4.10 gears which would be a nice find. I have had 6 F-150's since 1997 and loved them all. My favorite was a regular cab 4x4 with 4.10 gears. It was a stump puller.

Now for the work you are wanting to do. Have you ever ran a small tractor? I think you are being a little ambitious. My small tractor is 5,600# and it would be tough with my soil conditions to do 1/10 of what you mention. Yes, I can grade the yard out and spread some gravel but to cut in a drive, ect, that should be left up to the big guys. I think doing the final clean up, landscaping, some grading, pulling small trees, ect are in reach but the rest may be like digging a pool with a spoon. Yes, it can be done but will take you a long time.

For under $10,000 you can get a good used backhoe, a real one like a Case 580 or New Holland. This will get lots of work done and after the economy turns in 2-3 years with a Republican in the White House you can sell it for what you have in it or more. They are abundant around here now with the housing slump. You would just leave it at the building site and would not need a tow vehicle or trailer.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

Keep your SUV and get a older pickup. Mine was an '80 F250 4x4. It ran good, and in good shape mechanically. But, the interior was not great(tore out carpet and put in rubber floor mat among other stuff). And, the body had dings/ small dents, faded scratched paint. Perfect for thrashing around the property hauling gravel, refuse, tractor ect. It was not wired for trailer brakes, but that was pretty simple to do. Oh, and I updated from an AM radio to AM/FM/cassette...

And, it cost about $2k. 3/4 ton 4x4. Not pretty. Added some dings and scratches myself. And pulled stumps, hauled junk, gravel, dirt, firewood, etc, etc, etc.

I will be towing 4-8 times per month, off and on, for the next 6-10 months. It's 15 miles each way, mostly easy driving. Though, if I have a good reliable truck, it will likely get a lot more non-towing use while we build the house. I'd likely use the truck for everything I currently depend on a utility trailer for.

 

[RobertN]

I'd look cheaper, and older if he only has to go 15 miles. Sure, there will be other chores for the truck. Heck, an 80's F150 with a big 6 or a 302 would work great. Cheap. And if that rock he just dropped in the bed leaves a bigger dent than expected, no big deal.

Nice find would be a big straight six with a granny box. Put that puppy in low range, 4x4, and granny gear. There's ya a stump puller

After the property is cleared, the tar is beat out of the truck, then go spend your $20-40k on a newer F150/Ram1500/Titan whatever.

I have to agree that a used F-150 is the way to go. Look for one with a automatic and the 5.4L with 3.73 gears. Many have 3.55 gears and are just not as up to towing. Few, and I mean a very limited few, have 4.10 gears which would be a nice find. I have had 6 F-150's since 1997 and loved them all. My favorite was a regular cab 4x4 with 4.10 gears. It was a stump puller.

 

[lstinthot]

I did the straps for a while when I got my tractor. Then got the bug to get some chains. I use two 20' chains and 4 binders. I do not cross in the front, only go out from one side of the front bumper/frame hole to the side and same from the back. I go out from the draw bar area. Chain starts at one side of trailer to tractor back to starting side just enough to catch binder then back through drawbar hole to other side of trailer. I just drop a loop through the drawbar hole to catch the binders on both sides.

The chains are overkill for what is required by law. Took a while to find what is required and for light loads like we are hauling only two straps or chains are required. The law does say you could secure it in accordance with the heavy equipment requirements (duh) buy not required.

My tractor and backhoe weighs around 5500# - 6000#. The straps worked pretty good, just did not like them getting rough around the tractor edges. Wife is making me some covers to put over the tractor to keep the chains from scratching the paint.

I would also agree to get a used beater truck for the construction of your house and hauling of your tractor.

best of luck

Cargo Securement Rules - Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration

 

[s219]

Now for the work you are wanting to do. Have you ever ran a small tractor? I think you are being a little ambitious. My small tractor is 5,600# and it would be tough with my soil conditions to do 1/10 of what you mention. Yes, I can grade the yard out and spread some gravel but to cut in a drive, ect, that should be left up to the big guys. I think doing the final clean up, landscaping, some grading, pulling small trees, ect are in reach but the rest may be like digging a pool with a spoon. Yes, it can be done but will take you a long time.

For under $10,000 you can get a good used backhoe, a real one like a Case 580 or New Holland. This will get lots of work done and after the economy turns in 2-3 years with a Republican in the White House you can sell it for what you have in it or more. They are abundant around here now with the housing slump. You would just leave it at the building site and would not need a tow vehicle or trailer.

Chris

Because of permitting requirements in my county, I can't get into full fledged "land disturbance" without certification and putting up a surety for erosion/sedimentation. It's too much hassle. So I plan to do all the tree felling and small scale site prep (under 2500 sq. ft land disturbance is allowable without permit), but will leave stump pulling and major work to a contractor who is certified and insured/bonded for erosion/sedimentation work. I did briefly think about a used backhoe (ran a 310 when I was younger working construction) but it doesn't make sense for the limited work I will do on this new land.

What I am thinking is that the upfront driveway entrance/culvert work will be small scale, as well as grading/topsoil and driveway/gravel work at the end of construction. For all that stuff, the B2920 should be OK with a FEL and box blade. Though I may also pick up a land plane for the driveway.

 

[lstinthot]

Because of permitting requirements in my county, I can't get into full fledged "land disturbance" without certification and putting up a surety for erosion/sedimentation. It's too much hassle. So I plan to do all the tree felling and small scale site prep (under 2500 sq. ft land disturbance is allowable without permit), but will leave stump pulling and major work to a contractor who is certified and insured/bonded for erosion/sedimentation work. I did briefly think about a used backhoe (ran a 310 when I was younger working construction) but it doesn't make sense for the limited work I will do on this new land.

What I am thinking is that the upfront driveway entrance/culvert work will be small scale, as well as grading/topsoil and driveway/gravel work at the end of construction. For all that stuff, the B2920 should be OK with a FEL and box blade. Though I may also pick up a land plane for the driveway.

I am not sure if excavators charge more for pulling stumps that are cut low to ground vice pushing over and having stump pop up then cutting off stump. Don't know if you would be saving money if stumps are still in ground. When I priced my clearing of land to put a pool in, most of the money was in gettting the stumps out, I bought a track loader to play with for that, ended up selling it for about what I bought it for 3 years later.

 

[s219]

I am not sure if excavators charge more for pulling stumps that are cut low to ground vice pushing over and having stump pop up then cutting off stump.

Most of these trees are pines, so how you tackle them depends on whether they are being harvested for pulp, disposed of, or kept for other things. I plan to leave high stumps on anything that needs to be removed from the ground. Most of the trees are 8-12" d.b.h., so a 3-4' stump is good in most cases. Because pines have a taproot and snap easily, you can't push too high up anyhow.