How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[Sammy the red]

..........Maybe I am lucky that there is a Ford plant here (and lots of employees with "A plan" so they can get new trucks pretty cheap) but I couldn't throw a rock without hitting an F150 with a for sale sign on it.

When one refers to "Here", it is always nice too know where "Here" is.
As you do not list your location, we can only guess that "Here" may be Cape Cod ?

 

[s219]

Update: My tractor is being delivered today. I have a couple weeks before I need to start working on our new property, and will shop for trailers and trucks during that time. I'll also get a better feel for how much size I may need.

I haven't come across any used trucks under $10K that I like, but I think it would be a matter of connecting with family/friends through word of mouth to find a good deal. Anything advertised is either super high mileage or overpriced, or both.

I can get a new 2011 F-150 work truck for about $20K, and depreciate it under my business in one shot -- that's a tax benefit for 2011 under one of the current economic stimulus plans. I just have to buy the truck and put it into service by Dec 31. That would get the effective cost down closer to $13K. For $13K, I am starting to think a new F-150 is the way to go. And I like the idea of not giving that money straight to Uncle Sam. So that is an option too.

I looked at one used trailer yesterday, but it was in rough shape. So I am still steering towards a new 76"x16' or 82"x16' -- they are similarly priced, but the 76" is a landscape trailer and the 82" is more of an equipment hauler and seems better built. I'd just need to build stake-sides for the hauler for other uses.

As a worst case backup plan, I can probably haul the tractor with my current vehicle if I break up the initial load and then store the implements at my other property (don't need them at my current house). Transporting just the tractor back and forth should be doable if I am not dealing with the added weight of implements. But I will work out the math once the tractor gets here and I can measure/weigh everything.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...For $13K, I am starting to think a new F-150 is the way to go.

If you can get an F-150 for and effective cost of $13K, I think you're right. That's the way to go.

I also think you're right about being able to haul your load in pieces and do fine with you have as a temporary measure. Just take it easy and plan your stops and starts.

It's nice to not HAVE to be in a hurry to buy something new.

Also, go with the equipment trailer vs. the landscape trailer.

 

[RobertN]

I still say ranch truck... Just looking at Craigslist for Sacramento(near me), there are planty of 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4's for $2k. Some dents, faded paint, mileage. But, great for clearing property ect, and towing a tractor 15 miles.

IMHO, get one of those, beat the tar out of it for two years while you clear property, build house ect. Then go get your nice pickup...

There was a mid-80's F250 4x4 with a 460, stick shift for $2k... Pull stumps, tow tractor, haul gravel, who cares if you dent it...

I haven't come across any used trucks under $10K that I like, but I think it would be a matter of connecting with family/friends through word of mouth to find a good deal. Anything advertised is either super high mileage or overpriced, or both.

 

[hawkeye08]

Talked to an oldtimer one time about securing a 10,000 28' boat to the trailer. He was using ropes and when I asked about whether the rope would handle the 10,000lbs, he said the trailer only weighted 2400lbs. He never had any problems and had some sudden freeway stops and such.

When I haul my Kubota, I use 4 chains, one from each corner of tractor, binders on them and also secure the loader bucket. It only takes a few minutes to do it and then I don't worry about issues or DOT.

Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

 

[farmboy12]

Be careful, if you're buying that truck under a business name, and tow a 7k or 10k trailer it will definitely put your GCVWR over 10,000lbs. That puts you in DOT territory, which means getting a DOT card by getting a physical and other such things. I don't think there's any test, but it can be a PITA to keep up your DOT. Fines for commercial vehicles are often heftier than a private hauler.


Kyle

 

[jeffsw6]

When one refers to "Here", it is always nice too know where "Here" is.
As you do not list your location, we can only guess that "Here" may be Cape Cod ?

Louisville, Kentucky suburbs, so pretty close to thousands of Ford workers assembling trucks.

 

[dstig1]

Update: M

I looked at one used trailer yesterday, but it was in rough shape. So I am still steering towards a new 76"x16' or 82"x16' -- they are similarly priced, but the 76" is a landscape trailer and the 82" is more of an equipment hauler and seems better built. I'd just need to build stake-sides for the hauler for other uses.

Equipment trailer, for sure! Skip the landscape thing, or you will regret it. They are too light...

 

[AGGIE00]

Be careful, if you're buying that truck under a business name, and tow a 7k or 10k trailer it will definitely put your GCVWR over 10,000lbs. That puts you in DOT territory, which means getting a DOT card by getting a physical and other such things. I don't think there's any test, but it can be a PITA to keep up your DOT. Fines for commercial vehicles are often heftier than a private hauler.


Kyle

I may be wrong, and will be in trouble if I am, but I think the gcvwr has to be under 26k. That is why we use a gooseneck utility trailer with 2-7k axles instead of a dovetail with 2-10k dexters to haul our skidsteer mulcher. I'm still a bit overloaded, but dot doesn't look at a rig like ours the same as a dovetail. I use airbags on my truck and put a bunch of the weight on the ball to help the trailer out.

 

[rasimmo]

There were a few threads on here about that a while back. I think if trailer rating is over 10K used comercially it requires a CDL. That may be wrong. There was a lot of disagreement about it.

 

[RandyT]

At least here in Illinois if the GCWR is under 26000 then no CDL is required, but if the GCWR is over 10000 and is commercial requires a IL DOT number. So if your truck is rated at 8000 then you can pull a trailer that is under 18000 without a CDL. And I know that is way over the trailer tow rating for the truck.

Illinois also requires all vehicles over 8 ton stop at all weight stations. If I put my DK45S on a 10000# rated car hauler behind my Ram 1500 I don't have to stop but if I tow it with my nephews f-250 I do.

 

[downslope]

I may be wrong, and will be in trouble if I am, but I think the gcvwr has to be under 26k. That is why we use a gooseneck utility trailer with 2-7k axles instead of a dovetail with 2-10k dexters to haul our skidsteer mulcher. I'm still a bit overloaded, but dot doesn't look at a rig like ours the same as a dovetail. I use airbags on my truck and put a bunch of the weight on the ball to help the trailer out.

By dovetail are you meaning a trailer with the deck over the wheels, because you can have those built with 2-7K or 8K axles also? I've seen dovetails on utility trailers too, but they're shorter, like a 2 ft tail.

Or are you thinking that the lower-to-the-ground utility trailer doesn't attract as much attention from DOT? That might be a good idea, although I think the gooseneck may also be an attention getter. Probably the most stealthy rig would be a bumper pull utility with 7K or 8K axles.

 

[flusher]

By dovetail are you meaning a trailer with the deck over the wheels, because you can have those built with 2-7K or 8K axles also? I've seen dovetails on utility trailers too, but they're shorter, like a 2 ft tail.

Or are you thinking that the lower-to-the-ground utility trailer doesn't attract as much attention from DOT? That might be a good idea, although I think the gooseneck may also be an attention getter. Probably the most stealthy rig would be a bumper pull utility with 7K or 8K axles.

Evidently, a dual axle deckover gooseneck with dovetail towed by a 1T PU with duallies and carrying a tractor attracts a lot of attention from CHP here in No. CA. A few meetings ago one of the guys in my tractor club mentioned this as a potential problem for members towing tractors to club events. You have to convince the LEO if you're stopped that you're not hauling commercial.

 

[kday64]

Hi all,

Santa was very kind to me this year. He set a pair of SCC Quick Binder Plus (TulsaChain.com).

I also have a pair of 20'x5/16" G70 Transport Chains. In the center of each of the chain I have two slip hooks, with some slack between the hooks. Each slip hooks then independently mounts different mounting points. (FWD and AFT) This essentially turns my 20' chains into something close to two 10' chains. I also use these chains for towing so I don't want to cut them.

Tractor in neutral. Binders hooked on to the front chains. I use the binders to ensure the aft chains are tight.

~Kevin

 

[AGGIE00]

By dovetail are you meaning a trailer with the deck over the wheels, because you can have those built with 2-7K or 8K axles also? I've seen dovetails on utility trailers too, but they're shorter, like a 2 ft tail.

Or are you thinking that the lower-to-the-ground utility trailer doesn't attract as much attention from DOT? That might be a good idea, although I think the gooseneck may also be an attention getter. Probably the most stealthy rig would be a bumper pull utility with 7K or 8K axles.

By dovetail, I mean a float with dovetail and tandem axles with dualls. DOT knows a 30' float by itself weighs twice what my utility weighs and that a cdl would be mandatory. Bumper pull is not an option because I need the truck to carry a lot of the weight. We probably put 2 tons on the ball alone.

 

[oldballs]

Hi all,

Santa was very kind to me this year. He set a pair of SCC Quick Binder Plus (TulsaChain.com).

I also have a pair of 20'x5/16" G70 Transport Chains. In the center of each of the chain I have two slip hooks, with some slack between the hooks. Each slip hooks then independently mounts different mounting points. (FWD and AFT) This essentially turns my 20' chains into something close to two 10' chains. I also use these chains for towing so I don't want to cut them.

Tractor in neutral. Binders hooked on to the front chains. I use the binders to ensure the aft chains are tight.

~Kevin

kday64....Where do you attach the slip hooks to your BX2360? I've never hauled my BX yet, but may in the near future. Let's say you just had the MMM only. Those binders and chains could bend something out shape on the SCUT. My Case 448 has lots of cast iron front and rear that I have used heavy straps on when hauling. I'd go look now, but it is cold and dark right now.

 

[s219]

So I am getting closer to hauling, and am curious what people like to do as far as setting transmission and brakes while the tractor is on the trailer. My thought is to drive on, chain the front, and then put it in neutral with no brakes while tensioning rear chains/straps (or vice versa -- obviously need to work against gravity here so the tractor doesn't roll off during tie-down). Then once everything is snug, set the parking brake for transport but leave it in neutral. Sound reasonable?

By the way, I came down to the wire with my vehicle purchase on 12/30 but did it in a way that I got the 2011 tax write off by putting the new vehicle in service for business use by 12/31/2011 with no personal use until 1/1/2012. I don't know how the IRS would actually verify any of that, but I followed the rules exactly and have all my receipts lined up.

I ended up with an Acura MDX, which will tow 5000#. I was leaning towards buying a separate F-150 work truck, but we just couldn't get enthusiastic about parking an extra vehicle at our house (space is already cramped) and a pickup didn't make sense for either of us as a replacement daily driver or business vehicle. So the MDX popped up as a good solution -- basically replacing my existing vehicle type preference with one that has more towing capacity. I installed a Class III hitch and wiring harness, and have a brake controller shipping to me (will plug right into the existing harness). The 5000# limit ought to hold me for another 5 years at least....

Last step is to buy the trailer, and I will move on that next week. Still debating between 76" wide landscaping trailer or an 82" wide equipment trailer (both available in 14, 16, 18 foot lengths and with the same 2 x 3500# axle arrangement). The landscape trailer would be better for hauling materials, but the equipment trailer would be better for hauling the tractor -- I'd just need to build some sides and a back gate for material transport.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Your tie down plan is sound. Check everything after 2 miles then again every 100 miles.

As far as trailers go, for your situation I would go with the Landscape Trailer. Very handy design and a little less weight.

Chris

 

[freddyr]

I haul my bx2660 with fel and rear blade on a landscape trailer, 18ft. Added tie downs etc and tows very nice. it was only $100 more over a 16 ft. It was easier to balance since i had about 2 feet to spare. Also electric brakes were nice! I tow twice a year for about 180 miles on nice roads.:thumbsup:

 

[nunyabinis]

16ft tandem trailer; JD 3038e; 6ft flail mower; 5ft tiller; fuel cans; weed eater; cooler of adult refreshments and chainsaw in the metal box. 600 lbs of weight on the tongue.

Ready for work.




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