Everybody must be inside today!
So many replies so quick!
How far does your hammer reach?
But seriously, why a nailer for 12 nails?
One of the main aspects of the project is building 20+ gambrel trusses w/ gussets, or webs, up to 12 nails/web, 5 webs/truss.
I would be concerned with the #12 cord, at 106' you are dropping about 5 volts or a little over 4%. It may not matter but it will stress the motor. I would opt for the #10 and more hose. I am currently driving 3" galvanized ring shank nails into 2x12 SYP with no issues with 100' of 3/8" air hose and an 8 gallon compressor with the Porter Cable framing nailer. Extension cords are cheap compared to the compressor.
That's what I was thinking, but I have not had experience with long runs of air hose.
With 10 gauge cord you might be alright, but I would rather plug the air compressor straight into the wall. Then run the air hose the full 200 feet. Have you considered the nailers that use gas canisters instead if compressed air? I have driven thousands of nails with a framing nailer using the same CFM rated compressor. As long as you give the compressor time to catch up it works fine. I have driven 11,000 hardwood floor nails with a compressed air assisted nailer using the same 4 CFM compressor without any problems.
I only envision a few projects using a lot of nails, I've read gas canisters don't keep well.
Cripes for all that investment of equipment I'd gone cordless!
All the "investment" except the nailer and any more hose are "sunk costs" bought for other projects.
Cordless has 2 major problems, numerous reports of nails not being driven all the way when going into dry wood (talk to dragoneggs) and clipped nails. I'm only buying 1 nailer, and I want it to meet full code if necessary. I plan on using "recycled" wood for the loft, and all that will be real dry.
I regularly run 250 of air hose and have gone to 300 feet when needed. Air doesn't seem to care how far it has to go through the hose, or at least I've never had any issues with using my Hitachi air framing gun on projects.
Most of the time I prefer screws, but for production work, or siding and shingles, I prefer nails. When framing, I like to use nails that are 3 1/4 inch long because the tip had absolutely no holding power, and I want the most strength out of everything I build. Be careful of ring shanked nails. They have the reputation of holding better, but in reality, every time I've dome across them on decks and boat docks, they are usually 2 1/2 inch nails and they pop out real easy once the wood has dried out a bit. The only thing that fights me when taking it apart are screws that I can't unscrew. Then I destroy the wood getting it apart because screws hold so much better. Another advantage to screws is how easy it is to make a change, or adjust the fit by either using a temporary screw, or just keep tightening it until it's where you the board to be.
Yes, I've read many of your recommendations. It seems TBN mindset was screws for non-shear applications, like holding the floor down. Plus I may need to predrill dry wood for screws.
If it didn't work well with the run of hose, it would tempt me to get a portable air tank ($25 at TSC) and use it as a buffer near the nailer. Use a tee at the tank for air coming from the compressor and going to the tool. Shooting 12 nails at a whack probably wouldn't deplete the air in the tank faster than the compressor makes it up.
Great idea, I've got one, but it's a Harbor Freight
And many other users report things like "it works, just have to tap the nail in to set it". Like I wrote, aged dry wood, clipped nails.
I think you will be fine with the longer run of air hose. Of course the small buffer tank will make up for flow rate losses if that is even a problem with a nailer, which I don't think it will be because nailers do not use continuous air. You could run 1000 foot of air hose, and you will still have the exact same pressure on the far end as you do on the near end. There is zero pressure loss from running long lengths of hose, What you will have is flow rate loss over distance which will equal a pressure drop if you attempt to draw a given volume of air thru the hose too fast. Let me say that again. You will NOT have any pressure loss at the far end of a hose as long as you do not attempt to draw air from the hose. This works just like electricity in a wire. You will have zero voltage drop at the end of a 1000 foot length of Romex, right up to the point you attempt to draw current from it. Depending how much current you attempt to draw from the circuit will determine what the voltage drop will be. The more current you draw the more the voltage drop will be. E=IR. Still does and always will. Drawing the 13 amps from a 100 foot extension cord is probably nearing the limits of that system. Number 10 would be a much better choice. That said a string of christmas lights on a 300 foot number 12 cord would probably be fine.
Yes I realize that at 100 feet I'd be near the limit, but I'm unsure of loss in the connection if I used 50' #10 & 50 ft #12. But with the advice so far I think longer air hose and my carry tank will be the solution.
I think this pig tank at the project site is the best plan b, ... IF you find too much drop using a long hose.
And with this solution you could set the compressor only slightly over what the gun needs, which will be easier on the compressor if its at the end of a long extension cord.
But most everybody here says long hose alone is sufficient so I wouldn't buy additional gear until you see your actual field results using just that.
Thanks guys for all the quick replies!!
