how to build your own custom backhoe subframe

[dcyrilc]

yes my fel is to light for that purpose though doable. max lift is 1500-2200 iirc and I want to be able to lift 1tn ish so add the 500lbs for forks etc and your at or past red line. rear mounting like a bh I could get a bit more weight. 3000-4000 range probably I could also have it with some of the pro forlkift features side to side adjustment forward tilt etc. I saw a site that had 3pt catII i think 50-60+ hp forks that were 4500 lift range i think. they looked nice but were 8k i think maybe more.

I think ideal in my books would be using an attachment point like the BX 4 pin with the sub frame I have or a modified one that allows the arms to be moved more out of the way. have an extra pair of hard points behind the wheels to connect in to the top link. since my 45 sits up a bit I dont see clearance problems. off a trailer would be the only one I would see likely and that would be the bucket. ug that reminds me I got to go and re tork all the bolts to spec before next use. dont trust the twits that sold it.

cant find the site i saw earler but Forklifts :: Edwards Equipment Company the next to bottom is a decent idea what I mean.

Nice link. And they're only about 3 hours from me.:thumbsup:

 

[Kendrick]

per usual I cant find the really nice ones I originally saw.. that may have been at a different pc though but oh well.. thats atleas the idea im hoping to get... though I do want to put in the side to side slide for the forks 4 ish " travle side ways so that I dont have to muck with perfect tractor allignment get it close and straight then use the fork slide to get the load horisontaly alligned

 

[Iplayfarmer]

per usual I cant find the really nice ones I originally saw.. that may have been at a different pc though but oh well.. thats atleas the idea im hoping to get... though I do want to put in the side to side slide for the forks 4 ish " travle side ways so that I dont have to muck with perfect tractor allignment get it close and straight then use the fork slide to get the load horisontaly alligned

I occasionally run forklifts at work. Side shift is a must.

 

[DavidVT]

Back on the subframe topic, I have a Kubota 3430 with an old 3pt mounted woods 750bh.
I have the ladder subframe that came from the original owner that used it on a ford.

Looking for advice as I really want to get this off the 3pt mount. I have bent two top link pins despite only running the engine at around 1K when running the BH.

Today I was trying make my wife happy by digging out a stone she keeps hitting with the mower. Naturally it was half the size of a refrigerator when I uncovered it. My FEL would not even move the stone. I did find that the BH, again with just low engine speed, would easily roll the monster where I needed it to go.

SO, I see that my attempt to run the BH easily at low speed is still causing wear on the 3pt pins and clearly there is plenty of power available that I don't want released at me some day.

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

Just looking for thoughts on this.... thx

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Back on the subframe topic, I have a Kubota 3430 with an old 3pt mounted woods 750bh.
I have the ladder subframe that came from the original owner that used it on a ford.

Looking for advice as I really want to get this off the 3pt mount. I have bent two top link pins despite only running the engine at around 1K when running the BH.

Today I was trying make my wife happy by digging out a stone she keeps hitting with the mower. Naturally it was half the size of a refrigerator when I uncovered it. My FEL would not even move the stone. I did find that the BH, again with just low engine speed, would easily roll the monster where I needed it to go.

SO, I see that my attempt to run the BH easily at low speed is still causing wear on the 3pt pins and clearly there is plenty of power available that I don't want released at me some day.

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

Just looking for thoughts on this.... thx

Others may correct me on this, but a pump will build the same pressure at a slower engine speed. The flow will be reduced. This means you can't save your pins with a slower engine speed because the forces are all the same, just the speed is slower. The only thing you accomplish with a slower engine speed is that you bend your pins slower.

You should do something to get your backhoe off the 3 pt. What you do depends on your resources. If you have more money that time and skill, buy the subframe from the dealer. If you have time and want to make something that is customized to your specific tractor, modify the subframe you have.

 

[kennyd]

Others may correct me on this, but a pump will build the same pressure at a slower engine speed. The flow will be reduced.

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but the flow varies with RPM.

This means you can't save your pins with a slower engine speed because the forces are all the same, just the speed is slower. The only thing you accomplish with a slower engine speed is that you bend your pins slower.

I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

Point taken. Speed can be destructive too.

 

[dcyrilc]

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but variable displacement.

Did I miss something in the post about the backhoe? Aren't most of the newer tractors OC constant flow rather than CC constant pressure with variable displacement pumps?

 

[dfkrug]

Should I look for the woods 4pt for grand L's? something like $1K the last time I checked. I already have a woods loader.

Should I attempt to modify the ladder style mount I have out behind the barn? The front just needs a place to mount the cross pin and I think that would be easy. I suspect the rear will be very low due to the design of this tractor and my industrial tires. The ford used bolts/pins from the axle housing to carry the rear of the subframe.

I like the Woods 4-pt subframe for the Lxx30 tractors. These days, you
will likely pay over $1K for it, and it could take a while to receive it.

Since you have the other subframe already, modifying it could be a simple
and straight-forward job, even if it is not ideal. No doubt it would be
better than your 3PH.

If you make one from scratch, or modify the one you have, you should
be able to mount the hoe closer to the tractor than even the Woods
4-pt subframe does.

Note the older 750 hoes from Woods have their hyd reliefs set at no
more than 2000 psi, and your tractor puts out a healthy 2500psi (at 8+
GPM). This can be limiting to your FEL if you keep the hoe mounted,
unless you use a hyd work port for power (and disconnect the hoe hyds
when not in use).

As noted, the raw forces you can apply with your hoe at low hyd flow
rates get higher when higher flows are used, due to the momentum
of the faster moving boom, dipper, and heavy loads in the bkt. And,
since pins are not snug, you will increase the hammering action on
the pins and holes at higher flow rates.

 

[kennyd]

That is 100% correct. These are constant pressure pumps, but the flow varies with RPM.



I will disagree a little bit...The faster the hoe is operating, then the more it's is slammed around-especially by a new/inexperienced operator.

Did I miss something in the post about the backhoe? Aren't most of the newer tractors OC constant flow rather than CC constant pressure with variable displacement pumps?

Good catch. I certainly worded that incorrectly-sorry for the confusion. I have changed the wording.