How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But....

   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But....
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Mind if we back up a bit? I'm curious as to why you're looking to buy a ballast box vs. a heavy implement vs. a carryall (or a BigToolRack) vs. something like a Heavy Hitch draw bar/weight bracket.

Not saying there's anything wrong with going the ballast box route, it just seems like very niche implement to me that would seem to the preferable choice for a relatively small number of use cases (at least that I can think of off the top of my head). [...]

Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #12  
The titan box full of concrete is about 950 lbs. It's weight limit happens to match the weight of that volume of set concrete. A typical inexpensive 6' box blade is 500 lbs or so.

It does not take much of a slope to make it impossible to back up in 2wd with a load in the bucket. Or stop while going down hill for that matter. I use 4wd when facing down any significant slope.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But....
  • Thread Starter
#13  
[...]
It does not take much of a slope to make it impossible to back up in 2wd with a load in the bucket. Or stop while going down hill for that matter. I use 4wd when facing down any significant slope.

Yeah! That's what I'm learning now.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #14  
Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.


I would set that small ballast you have, on top of a brand new heavy duty box blade, and call it good. Only spending the money once, as it were. Instead of buying a ballast box (almost worthless to get any work done), and then having to go out and buy the attachment you need (want) later on. Then you'll have ballast weight AND actually be able to do something useful at the same time.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #15  
I would set that small ballast you have, on top of a brand new heavy duty box blade, and call it good. Only spending the money once, as it were. Instead of buying a ballast box (almost worthless to get any work done), and then having to go out and buy the attachment you need (want) later on. Then you'll have ballast weight AND actually be able to do something useful at the same time.

Box blades are one of the most common implements to find used, and just about impossible to damage. You might well be able to find a little 40 or 48" box blade in the weeds behind your favorite implement & tractor dealer. It just needs to be narrower than the rear wheels. All for less $$ than a ballast box. Adding a few cross bars and your slab of steel would do the trick.
rScotty
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #16  
The trick to buying a ballast box is to buy one shaped like another implement. Like a box blade, or a rear blade, or heck even a brush hog.

Why someone would spend actual money to buy a steel box you can throw weight in, just to have weight on the back of their tractor, is beyond me. Seems like a waste of money. Buy a heavy box blade. At least you'll have something useful hanging on to the back of your tractor.

I used my box blade for ballast for many years, but got sick of it because it's so large and unwieldy when maneuvering in tight spaces or in the woods. The ballast box is much much smaller.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #17  
The trick to buying a ballast box is to buy one shaped like another implement. Like a box blade, or a rear blade, or heck even a brush hog.

Why someone would spend actual money to buy a steel box you can throw weight in, just to have weight on the back of their tractor, is beyond me. Seems like a waste of money. Buy a heavy box blade. At least you'll have something useful hanging on to the back of your tractor.

This. I built a ballast box (55 gallon barrel with concrete), used it once or twice. Now it's a paperweight.

Spend the money on an actual implement, add weight to it as necessary.

Good luck!
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #18  
For us with small tractors (SCUTS) you cannot beat suitcase weights. Easy to make a bracket to hang them on front and/or rear. 50# each, you can handle them easy, and adjust to the weight you need. I have 500# worth and have never looked back. I added a bracket to the back of the quick hitch. Home Depot has them on their web site with free shipping.

Ron
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #19  
Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.


That makes sense. While I have a box blade, I've also considered getting either a Heavy Hitch or a carryall (or both) for some of the same reasons -- in addition to wanting/needing a way to transport tools/supplies for projects around my property.

Between the two the Heavy Hitch would seem the better option for variable/max ballast while also providing a 2" receiver hitch for attaching baskets, vises, etc., and of course maneuvering trailers. However, it might be the more expensive option given suitcase weights generally cost ~$1+/lb.

On the other hand, commercially available carryalls (for example: King Kutter Tractor 3 Point Hitch Carry All) are cheaper, but would require a bit more work. However, the versatility of having a frame to build a custom box or platform on is actually nice enough that when/if I order one for myself I may order a second just to keep one on hand for other projects.

A simple platform made out of 2x lumber and whatever heavy object that could be placed/secured on it would seem a very easy way to get something that could serve as a ballast -- or platform for whatever other stuff might need to be carried (e.g. tools, bags of cement, drums/pails). That 20" square of steel would probably be a good starting point for adding weight (perhaps just bolted to the bottom of a platform on the carryall).

Would also permit more time for deciding what box blade to get.... thing I've noticed about implements is unlike tractors resale prices generally seem be much lower than original sale prices and the implements worth having/keeping rarely seem to show up for sale as used equipment (and when they do, it might cost just as much as buying new). ...at least that's what I've seen in my casual looking.
 
   / How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But.... #20  
I used my box blade for ballast for many years, but got sick of it because it's so large and unwieldy when maneuvering in tight spaces or in the woods. The ballast box is much much smaller.

This is why I also use a ballast box.
 

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