How to buy a ballast box - should be simple, right? But....

[SmallChange]

In looking around for a ballast box I'm discovering at least 2 mysterious difficulties:

1) Ballast boxes that are "for" a particular brand of tractor. What's the difference between third party boxes for John Deere and boxes for Kubota, when your tractor isn't either of these? They make it sound like it's more than the paint color but don't say exactly what.

2) Shipping is free for some boxes and costs as much as the box does for others. What's up with this?

You're not basically paying for the weight, overall. Scrap steel is about 4 cents per pound, and boxes seem to run around a dollar per pound.

 

[Utopia Texas]

(1) The ballast boxes are not made to fit a brand. They all fit the standard rear three point system.
(2) Every business has the option of shipping included in the price. Pick the one that has the best value for you.
(3) The boxes are made of new steel, not scrap steel. The price includes design, steel, labor to cut pieces, welding, painting, shipping, advertising and other overhead. Try to make your own if you can do a better job at their price.

 

[s219]

No ballast boxes are truly brand specific that I know of, but companies with large/established model lines who sell ballast boxes (Kubota, Deere, etc) tend to offer boxes that are model-specific in terms of size and usage. When I was shopping around, I saw Kubota had different boxes for BX/B models and L models, the main difference being volume and size (L box taller).

I bought the BX/B box for my L because I found a great deal on it with free shipping and I actually preferred the size. It had stickers on it that showed fill levels (using gravel) for each model tractor, so if I had to guess, I'd say the Kubota-specific part is that someone took the time to do math and give some guidance how to match it to the various tractor models (which to be honest, is something some brands to well and other brands totally neglect). I filled that one to the top with concrete and old tire weights to get a weight appropriate for my L model, and also modified it by putting an a-frame hitch mount inside the box (prior to filling).

 

[prof fate]

well, first it's NOT scrap steel...it's a engineered, built, painted, warranteed item.

It's expensive to ship heavy stuff.

if it fits a 3pt it will work on any tractor. Some of what you're looking at is the brand upcharge.

Go look at this one - on sale and FREE SHIPPING. They make good stuff

Titan Attachments Ballast Box for 3 Point Category 1 Tractor and Loader Hitches

 

[nybirdman]

Although ballast boxes are somewhat shorter;a more useful implement on the back will do the same;I.E. a box blade or rear blade.

 

[TnAndy]

This would seem to be one of the easier projects to make in a home shop. Good excuse to buy a small welder if you don't already have one !

I needed some front ballast on my first tractor....a 22hp Yanmar....because no front loader and did a lot of heavy lifting with a set of forks on the rear. So some scrap angle, welded in a box with plywood sides and filled with rocks did the trick. Made it so it would simply clip on the front bumper for easy on/off.

 

[rScotty]

In looking around for a ballast box I'm discovering at least 2 mysterious difficulties:

1) Ballast boxes that are "for" a particular brand of tractor. What's the difference between third party boxes for John Deere and boxes for Kubota, when your tractor isn't either of these? They make it sound like it's more than the paint color but don't say exactly what.

The beauty of the 3pt hitch on the back of every tractor is that it is the same hitch built to the same standard for every tractor made. Meaning that any implement that will fit one will fit them all.
Don't you wish everything was made with such foresight? You can buy anyone's ballast box - or any other implement - and it will hook up and work withyour tractor.

BTW, instead of a ballast box I bought a small 4 foot wide heavily constructed box blade. It's only slightly larger than a ballast box, weighs a lot, and will do other things as well as providing counterweight. Since more people buy box blades than ballast boxes, they tend to be inexpensive and are common used. Abox blade is already a box - though without a bottom - so it is easy enough to add as much weight to it as you want.
rScotty

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

The trick to buying a ballast box is to buy one shaped like another implement. Like a box blade, or a rear blade, or heck even a brush hog.

Why someone would spend actual money to buy a steel box you can throw weight in, just to have weight on the back of their tractor, is beyond me. Seems like a waste of money. Buy a heavy box blade. At least you'll have something useful hanging on to the back of your tractor.

 

[SmallChange]

[...]
I bought the BX/B box for my L because I found a great deal on it with free shipping and I actually preferred the size. It had stickers on it that showed fill levels (using gravel) for each model tractor, so if I had to guess, I'd say the Kubota-specific part is that someone took the time to do math and give some guidance how to match it to the various tractor models (which to be honest, is something some brands to well and other brands totally neglect).
[...]

Well, consider me educated, everybody. Thank you!

First of all, s219 points out something that is actually of value for matching ballast with a specific brand tractor. The math and guidance does have value. I appreciate there's freedom to buy whatever box from whomever, but the idea of brand-specific boxes isn't automatically just an empty gesture.

Second, shipping is expensive. I'm sure to pay for it one way or the other, as I'm the one paying money, and manufacturers aren't supposed to be charities.

And, third, of course it's not scrap steel. Like prof fate says it's engineered, built, painted, and warranteed. If scrap steel automatically came in the shape to fit 3pt hitches nobody would sell boxes. I know this perfectly well and shouldn't have suggested otherwise.

And I like the Titan box, price, and recommendation -- thanks!

 

[jjp8182]

Mind if we back up a bit? I'm curious as to why you're looking to buy a ballast box vs. a heavy implement vs. a carryall (or a BigToolRack) vs. something like a Heavy Hitch draw bar/weight bracket.

Not saying there's anything wrong with going the ballast box route, it just seems like very niche implement to me that would seem to the preferable choice for a relatively small number of use cases (at least that I can think of off the top of my head).

The only reason I can think of for there to be any incompatibility of a ballast box with a make/line of tractors would be if the ballast box protrudes forward of the hitch points far enough to potentially start interfering with other parts of the tractor --- though I'm personally not aware of any manufacturer that's currently building ballast boxes with that problem. ..... or the isn't enough ground clearance when it's lifted (which again would be odd to do from an implement manufacturing perspective).

 

[SmallChange]

Mind if we back up a bit? I'm curious as to why you're looking to buy a ballast box vs. a heavy implement vs. a carryall (or a BigToolRack) vs. something like a Heavy Hitch draw bar/weight bracket.

Not saying there's anything wrong with going the ballast box route, it just seems like very niche implement to me that would seem to the preferable choice for a relatively small number of use cases (at least that I can think of off the top of my head). [...]

Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.

 

[ericm979]

The titan box full of concrete is about 950 lbs. It's weight limit happens to match the weight of that volume of set concrete. A typical inexpensive 6' box blade is 500 lbs or so.

It does not take much of a slope to make it impossible to back up in 2wd with a load in the bucket. Or stop while going down hill for that matter. I use 4wd when facing down any significant slope.

 

[SmallChange]

[...]
It does not take much of a slope to make it impossible to back up in 2wd with a load in the bucket. Or stop while going down hill for that matter. I use 4wd when facing down any significant slope.

Yeah! That's what I'm learning now.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.

I would set that small ballast you have, on top of a brand new heavy duty box blade, and call it good. Only spending the money once, as it were. Instead of buying a ballast box (almost worthless to get any work done), and then having to go out and buy the attachment you need (want) later on. Then you'll have ballast weight AND actually be able to do something useful at the same time.

 

[rScotty]

I would set that small ballast you have, on top of a brand new heavy duty box blade, and call it good. Only spending the money once, as it were. Instead of buying a ballast box (almost worthless to get any work done), and then having to go out and buy the attachment you need (want) later on. Then you'll have ballast weight AND actually be able to do something useful at the same time.

Box blades are one of the most common implements to find used, and just about impossible to damage. You might well be able to find a little 40 or 48" box blade in the weeds behind your favorite implement & tractor dealer. It just needs to be narrower than the rear wheels. All for less $$ than a ballast box. Adding a few cross bars and your slab of steel would do the trick.
rScotty

 

[s219]

The trick to buying a ballast box is to buy one shaped like another implement. Like a box blade, or a rear blade, or heck even a brush hog.

Why someone would spend actual money to buy a steel box you can throw weight in, just to have weight on the back of their tractor, is beyond me. Seems like a waste of money. Buy a heavy box blade. At least you'll have something useful hanging on to the back of your tractor.

I used my box blade for ballast for many years, but got sick of it because it's so large and unwieldy when maneuvering in tight spaces or in the woods. The ballast box is much much smaller.

 

[FTG-05]

The trick to buying a ballast box is to buy one shaped like another implement. Like a box blade, or a rear blade, or heck even a brush hog.

Why someone would spend actual money to buy a steel box you can throw weight in, just to have weight on the back of their tractor, is beyond me. Seems like a waste of money. Buy a heavy box blade. At least you'll have something useful hanging on to the back of your tractor.

This. I built a ballast box (55 gallon barrel with concrete), used it once or twice. Now it's a paperweight.

Spend the money on an actual implement, add weight to it as necessary.

Good luck!

 

[Tractor Seabee]

For us with small tractors (SCUTS) you cannot beat suitcase weights. Easy to make a bracket to hang them on front and/or rear. 50# each, you can handle them easy, and adjust to the weight you need. I have 500# worth and have never looked back. I added a bracket to the back of the quick hitch. Home Depot has them on their web site with free shipping.

Ron

 

[jjp8182]

Excellent question. I'm not sure. Here's why I was leaning toward a ballast box:

I have a number of other attachments but none of them are very heavy. I am pretty interested in getting a box blade. However, I'm figuring that will run $800 or so, while a ballast box would be $300 or so. Having just plunked down cash for a new tractor/loader, I'm feeling a little conservative. And I haven't read as much as I'd like to about box blades, and haven't begun asking questions, here or anywhere else.

Plus, a ballast box would be superior in one way that's significant to me. It takes up less room, and I have some close quarters to maneuver in. By way of example, I did just trade in a Kubota B6200, which is a pretty small tractor. When I would have the 6' landscape rake on the back, plus the dozer blade always on the front, it was significantly more difficult to get around my parking area, my gate, a turnaround in the woods, or the cars when removing snow.

By the way, I do have a small ballast I made from a 3pt cross drawbar and a big slab of steel that was being discarded at work. It is a 20" square of 3" thick steel I can mount as an implement, and it weighs 340 lbs. My imagine is running to something bigger, though. I've noticed with the new tractor loader with a decent partial bucket of gravelly soil, when I'm pointed somewhat downhill, I can't back up in 2WD, and it's pretty challenging to raise and lower the bucket smoothly enough to not feel the rear wheels lift momentarily. I do have 500 lbs of washer fluid in my rear tires, but am thinking significantly more would be nice. I haven't tried the 340 lb ballast on the new tractor yet (it's in a somewhat inconvenient spot), but I'm anticipating it may not make as much of a difference as I'd like.

That makes sense. While I have a box blade, I've also considered getting either a Heavy Hitch or a carryall (or both) for some of the same reasons -- in addition to wanting/needing a way to transport tools/supplies for projects around my property.

Between the two the Heavy Hitch would seem the better option for variable/max ballast while also providing a 2" receiver hitch for attaching baskets, vises, etc., and of course maneuvering trailers. However, it might be the more expensive option given suitcase weights generally cost ~$1+/lb.

On the other hand, commercially available carryalls (for example: King Kutter Tractor 3 Point Hitch Carry All) are cheaper, but would require a bit more work. However, the versatility of having a frame to build a custom box or platform on is actually nice enough that when/if I order one for myself I may order a second just to keep one on hand for other projects.

A simple platform made out of 2x lumber and whatever heavy object that could be placed/secured on it would seem a very easy way to get something that could serve as a ballast -- or platform for whatever other stuff might need to be carried (e.g. tools, bags of cement, drums/pails). That 20" square of steel would probably be a good starting point for adding weight (perhaps just bolted to the bottom of a platform on the carryall).

Would also permit more time for deciding what box blade to get.... thing I've noticed about implements is unlike tractors resale prices generally seem be much lower than original sale prices and the implements worth having/keeping rarely seem to show up for sale as used equipment (and when they do, it might cost just as much as buying new). ...at least that's what I've seen in my casual looking.

 

[chevy]

I used my box blade for ballast for many years, but got sick of it because it's so large and unwieldy when maneuvering in tight spaces or in the woods. The ballast box is much much smaller.

This is why I also use a ballast box.