How to do BX24 engine valve alignment?

[wotalota]

I am replacing the BX24 fluids at 875 hours and there is a engine valve clearance alignment required that should be done by the dealer. Before calling the dealer I was trying to decide if I could do it myself. I have the shop manual which describes the process but from the outside that area looks different on my machine.

How do you get the right flywheel position before checking the clearances? I am not seeing the alignment marks as shown in the drawing. There are five faint lines on the flywheel one of which has small lines either side as if that particular line might be the alignment point. Then what to align it against? There is what could be a mark point on the engine either a faint line or an raised bump just below the marker point in the photo.

 

[wotalota]

In a better light and wearing reading glasses it was clear that what appeared to be 2 small lines on the flywheel was the TC1 markings. Still wasn't quite sure where the alignment mark was on the engine block, but decided to have a go.

The directions were to first remove the glow plugs, but it didn't look like they were in the way, so left them in place. Removing them would have made it easier to clean around that side of the cover. The cover seal resisted a bit, then came off with the gasket still attached to the top and in reusable shape. The flywheel can be turned anti clockwise by hand to the correct position. From watching the valve movement it seemed the alignment for piston 1 top dead center is approximately as shown in the picture in the previous entry.

The cylinders are numbered 1-3 starting from the rear of the tractor with intake then exhaust valve for each cylinder. When the flywheel is at TC1 valve positions 1, 2, 4, and 5 are adjustable. Then the flywheel is rotated 360 degrees back to the same location to adjust valve positions 3 and 6. The valve clearance spec is 0.00571" to 0.00728", 3 were at over 0.007" and 3 at over 0.008". Changed all of them to between 0.006" and less than 0.007".

From today's experience this seems like a service that should be attended to, and it is not difficult to do oneself.

 

[Tollster]

Sometimes you can be 180 out from the compression stroke from TDC, I would suggest, aligning the first cylinder where you think TDC is, then looking for the indicator marks on the crank, if not, rotate it 360
, and look again..

I have not done mine, but have done a Harley or two in my day, and a few bucket under cam jap machines, naturally they have plug holes, making it somewhat easier..If its anything like that, the piston will cycle two times, one for the compression stroke, unlike a tow stroke.. hope this helps

I used to have a nice excel spread sheet you could input your findings into, and it would tell you which size shim to install based on the tolerances..

 

[Deano]

Just came across your post. Removing the glow plugs just make the engine easier to turn with no compression. I did mine also, but opted to have a new gasket on hand to install. I agree, not really needed, but changed mine anyways. I cannot see a reason for anyone to take theirs to a dealer for this. My gaps were almost identical to what you found.