How to make box blade type shanks penetrate further?

[FredH]

If I am not Mistaken , They Do make longer Shanks . I do know they make 4 hole , which yours only appear to be 2 hole . I purchased 4 hole for My home built ripper , Which is not as nice as Yours , but functional . I woud have to say , Mine will bury the shanks all the way up to the cross beam . So with the 4" tube , plus 1 hole stuck above the tube for a pin to hold it , I am looking at a good 10" to 11.5" of penetration . My issue is that I have to go side hill or downhill for My TC30 to pull it with 8 shanks .





Fred H

 

[jeff9366]

I have an implement that has box blade shanks on it and is some sort of a mini ripper or scarifier. It does not penetrate as much as I think it should and only goes maybe four or so inches deep.

DOGS: Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go with a Chisel Plow?

 

[ovrszd]

Maybe I'm missing something, but the shorter the top link it seems like the more the points will be pointed down at the ground. If you lengthen the top link enough, the points wouldn't even engage and the rippers would just ride on the curved shank. If I was doing this I would instinctively shorten the top link. Am i way off base here?

Kenny, if you were looking at in person you'd see the need to lengthen. I doubt the top link will extend far enough to make the shanks ride on their heel.

 

[sixdogs]

DOGS: Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go with a Chisel Plow?

I've got an 8 ft chisel plow but need the big--90 HP, 9000 lb-tractor to pull it and I have to trailer it 15 miles away to do the job which really doesn't require all that tillage. I just want to rip the sod or packed ground enough to make it easier on my equipment when I rototill it. The tractor for the smaller ripper/scarifier is easier to trailer and less expensive to operate. This little ripper thing would be the perfect ticket to break up hard ground or sod in a hurry.

The shanks have three holes compared with four holes on the 2" longer shank. They are long enough for what I want once I get it all the way figured out..

 

[jeff9366]

The shanks on your ripper look just like the shanks on my Rollover Box Blade, so I have a pretty good idea of the draft force resisting your ripper.

I also have a Dirt Dog Field Cultivator. A Field Cultivator is easier to pull as the points, at the end of parabolic tines, are pulled through the earth almost horizontally.


6/10/2015

Field Cultivators and Chisel Plows have parabolic shaped tines in common. Parabolic tines pull much easier through soil than angled shanks, such as those equipping Box Blades. From my observation, this is because parabolic shaped tines have the forward part of the tines in nearly a horizontal position working the soil. Field Cultivator tines are tipped with sharp, chisel points further reducing draft resistance.

Each sharp chisel point on my Field Cultivator is 2" X 10" = 20 square inches, oriented horizontally. Chisel points are uniform 5/16" thick. Tines are 1/2" wide.

Box Blade shanks are angled at 45 degrees to reach the bottom of road potholes and chip out surrounding hard road surface. They are designed for rigidity to apply bludgeon force. Box Blade points have an edge but get fat immediately.

Each Box Blade ripper point on my Rollover Box Blade is 1-1/4" X 5-1/4" = 6-1/2 square inches, oriented at 45 degrees. Orientation at 45 degrees hugely increases draft resistance. Box Blade shanks are 5/8" wide.

The engaged five tine Field Cultivator pulls easily, relative to my five shank Rollover Box Blade, with shanks down.

 

[CalG]

Just do what you have to do to make the lift arms drag on the ground, then add weight to your tool bar until the engagement is as deep as you desire. It's not rocket science, and it does not take new or different tools or implements.
You may need to adjust , reposition or modify the side links however.

 

[sixdogs]

Jeff9366--I do like that RO600 Bush Hog. Any more pics?

This is the chisel plow I use if I need to but it takes some serious HP. It's 17 shanks from an IH Vibrashank on an 8' frame. I have 2" wide chisel type points on it and it does a great job tearing up old sod. Only one pass or it will bunch up. I can switch to 5" shovels for weed control on plain dirt.

 

[jeff9366]

For you, DOGS, sure:

 

[sixdogs]

jeff9366--That RO600 Bush Hog is something I have never seen before. I've never had the need for a box blade but sure could find a use for that tool. Seems like it would be very useful for anything involving dirt works and if I owned one would likely never sell it. Your disc looks surprisingly effective too. Are those 20" notched blades on it?

 

[jeff9366]

The Bush Hog (brand) Rollover Box Blade is one of my favorite implements. I do not have hydraulic rear remotes on my L3560. With the ROBB the ability to PULL, PUSH (only with rigid stabilizers, then prudently), SMOOTH and RIP is there, with just a tug on the latch handle. The 60" ROBB is 620 pounds. I have never owned a standard Box Blade. Some who have owned both comment that a ROBB is significantly less finicky to adjust for a good finish. I also use a 'Hydraulink' Top Link in lieu of a standard screw adjustable Top Link. The provides a certain amount of cushioning action when using the ROBB, which also makes it simple to operate well.

One member here claims the Bush Hog ROBBs are made by Dirt Dog for Bush Hog. Could be, currently, but mine had a sticker on its arrival: Made in India.

The Disc Harrow is a Monroe Tufline TH971820B, 20", 9" spacing front, 7/1/2" spacing rear. Notched/notched. A good and plenty load for my L3560.

LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/332493-tandem-lift-disc-harow-monroe.html?highlight=

I do not know how that Disc Harrow photo slipped in except it was after midnight when I posted.


Did you give this a fair trial? This pin adjustment has worked effectively for me with multiple ground contact implements:

The solution is to move the adjustment pins for the Three Point Hitch right and left Lifting Rod stirrups, which attach to the Lower Links, from the TOP hole to the LOWER hole. This will allow your ripper to drop down 3" to 5". Then play with Top Link length.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have an implement that has box blade shanks on it and is some sort of a mini ripper or scarifier. It does not penetrate as much as I think it should and only goes maybe four or so inches deep. I got a little more when I shortened the top link, so that helped but I would like maybe seven inches or so. I have the three point arms correct so that's not the issue and I tried on both soft and hard ground so that's not the problem. It's heavy enough.

So is there a secret? How do I get these shanks to penetrate further or is this all there is? Anyone know?


View attachment 466561

I have the same implement except mine is red. With the implement setting level like in your photo, mine will drag the beam in the dirt even on hard soil if my tractor will pull it. Those scarifier shanks pull themselves into the ground so any shallow penetration has to be because your lift arms aren't letting the implement go all the way down. Check your draft control if you have one, it may be holding the lift arms up. Move it all the way down, make sure your 3 PH control is going all the way down (not hitting the depth control knob). If this doesn't work for you, remove the scarifiers and see if your lift arms allow the implement to lower enough so that the beam gets down to the ground or nearly so.

 

[Gary Fowler]

DOGS: Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go with a Chisel Plow?

I think my ripper cost me $250. Can yo buy a chisel plow for that amount. It also doesn't take as much HP to pull the ripper and with a couple of passes you have done the same as a chisel plow. If you are doing a 100 acres or more, a chisel plow is the way to go although most large farms now are zero tillage.

 

[sixdogs]

I think my ripper cost me $250. Can yo buy a chisel plow for that amount. It also doesn't take as much HP to pull the ripper and with a couple of passes you have done the same as a chisel plow. If you are doing a 100 acres or more, a chisel plow is the way to go although most large farms now are zero tillage.

I've got rippers and chisel plows. What appeals to me about this smaller "scarifier" or mini-ripper is that it's easier to trailer, can be used on a smaller tractor, is less costly to operate and can fit in tighter places. It can break the ground on a construction site easily and cheaply and is pretty hard to damage with a compact tractor. It really works great and I highly recommend it.

 

[sixdogs]

Here's an update on this and what I think is intended by design. After looking at various tractors today and the distance the rear links are from the ground, it occurred to me that the maker of the scarifier/ripper designed it so that the link pins were of a height that could only be used by smaller tractors. Which means it is somewhat matched to the horsepower intended for use. If someone tries to hook it to a bigger HP tractor, which might be likely to damage it, the implement would not be able to go low enough into the ground because the lift arm ends would be too high.

This isn't going to prevent all situations, but that's what I have come to believe about this particular implement. Just my two cents.