How to read a Span Table???

[MossflowerWoods]

Just on the ground before you start adding your 2x6's and after your concrete has set up for a day, might even want to toss a few mothballs on the plastic before the floor goes down as well, as a critter deterrent. Low height buildings have been known as hangouts for mice etc...the same ones that eat electrical wires on shiny motorcycles in winter. You also want to seam seal every gap in the wood, do this by placing a work light in the structure at night before you do any siding, seal up any area you can see light coming thru, in the long run you will be glad you did this.

Fix,

Are you saying I should make my own footers? Poured concrete into some kind of frame to be a footer?

I was thinking the pre cast ones...

An idea is gelling, but I gotta go get ready for Church...
More later...

David

 

[lstinthot]

LD1,

#1 I suspect my lumber costs are higher than you are quoting (that is not helping my case)

#2 - I believe I need to excavate approx 6' to do what you suggest. Lay down 4" of gravel, build a frame for the concrete pad that is 4" tall (not 3 1/2" like a 2x4 is). Then I need some kind of rebar etc. (something wire?) inside the pad space. Then I can pour, smooth, and cure. I end up with a NICE:thumbsup: patio. How do I attach the wood for the shed?

#3 - see pic.

#4 - I currently have a non-level pad in th carport, complete with a giant crack and a low spot that becomes my 4th pond every time it rains... I do not want to repeat that on this shed.

Also keep in mind "No Permit"...

#5 - One bag of crete each post should do, but I'm giving up on that idea...

David

Rebar or metal screening is not needed...there is concrete with fiber in it now that is great. I used rebar for height markers. Pound them in the ground to know where the concrete will fill up too. ( I have a laser level if you want to borrow it, sister in-law lives in Ladysmith so we are over that way once in a while, we live in Spotsy).

I did a garage some time ago and had all the leveling and gravel work done. then paid a group of guys to come in a pour the concrete. It cost me $150 for labor, money well spent. I supplied the concrete.

One thing with concrete floors is to make sure you do not disturb the soil below where the concrete will be poured. Remove only what is necessary when leveling ground. Maker sure you put some kind of pitch from back to front so water will drain out if you happen to get any in the shed.

Attaching wood to the concrete can be done either with anchor bolts or anchor straps. They get set in the concrete during the pour. I went a little over kill on the straps and put them every 12 or 16 inches can't remember now. The straps will lay flat and fold around the outside of the bottom board and nail in the top. Bolts come up through the middle of the sill plate and have a washer and nut to hold down the wall.

 

[LD1]

LD1,


I end up with a NICE:thumbsup: patio. How do I attach the wood for the shed?

[/qoute]
If it were mine, I would build it like a pole barn.

Dig your holes for the 4x4 posts. These need to be long enough to go in the ground ~3' and stick above ground the height you want your walls to be. Then attach "band boards" as they are called. Usually 2x6 PT toungue and groove around the base. THAT now becomes your form for the concrete floor.

And if you want, you can just go ahead and build the building NOW, and pour the concrete whenever you want.

Just a mini-pole barn is all it needs to be. And probabally the sturdiest and cheapest method of construction for what you want.

 

[lstinthot]

LD1,


I end up with a NICE:thumbsup: patio. How do I attach the wood for the shed?

[/qoute]
If it were mine, I would build it like a pole barn.

Dig your holes for the 4x4 posts. These need to be long enough to go in the ground ~3' and stick above ground the height you want your walls to be. Then attach "band boards" as they are called. Usually 2x6 PT toungue and groove around the base. THAT now becomes your form for the concrete floor.

And if you want, you can just go ahead and build the building NOW, and pour the concrete whenever you want.

Just a mini-pole barn is all it needs to be. And probabally the sturdiest and cheapest method of construction for what you want.

I actually just got back from looking at a guys pole barn he is building. I like that method. I may have to do it that way for my covered storage. His building is 42' by 120' with what looks like 20' tall ceilings. Very nice pole barn. I don't think I need that big but it would be nice. I need one for tractor, trailer, boat, trailer and dirtbikes and gocart. I might be able to fit that in a 42' by 120'. Just need to convince the boss to release the funds:licking:

 

[Red Horse]

Red Horse,

I was not planning to permit.







I'm not sure I see how 4 chunks of 4" thick concrete canbe MORE stable that a 4x4 2 feet deep in a hole filled with concrete, and the 2x6 sitting ontop of the 4x4 (doubled 2x6's on the outside and a couple more in the middle). See pic. I was thinking about all 4 corners, plus the 4 centers of each side and then maybe 3 along the centerline down the 20' direction.

I can envision how to level and cut off all the 4x4's, but I do not know how to do what you describe as "get a good straight 2 x 6 as your straitedge, (assuming you don't have a transit) and just set your first block to height that suits you and level off to the others from there. Then just mark your end rim joists at 12" and start pounding nails."


David

Dave, Take a deep breath. Its not difficult. Also what CrazyAl has suggested is the same as me- except I'm saying you just set on SOLID 4" x 8" x 16" blocks. Trust me, I would trust a 12 x 20 platform resting on 4" or 8" of solid block, long before I would a spindly 4 x 4. Plus, it is not good practice to bury the 4 x 4's (if you must use them) IN the concrete. If you want 4 x 4,s, you pouir the sonotubes, place a hold dowen bolt in the middle, and then use one of many gaqlvanized products that are available to attach PT to concrete footings/piers.

As we speak, I am building a 10 x 12 precut post and beam shed that I bought from Pine Harbor. Its2 x 6, on 16' centers and its resting on 4" block- three piers on each of the 20' length. Only thing I'm deviating from is I bought an extra 2 x 6 and I am cutting bridging blocks to run down the middle (the 6' line). Solid bridging does an amazing job of making a deck structure a lot more rigid. It takes all the "bounce" out of it.

I also second CrazyAls comment on Advantech. I paid a 120 buck premium in the kit over plywood (comes out to a buck a sq. ft or 32 a sheet). It looks like crap particle board but it supposedly does the job-that WILL be the finish floor.

I'm goofing off right now having lunch and waiting for the start of the race at Dover (Go Blue Ovals!!) but I will try to get some pix this afternoon.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

If it were mine, I would build it like a pole barn.

Just a mini-pole barn is all it needs to be. And probabally the sturdiest and cheapest method of construction for what you want.

LD1,

That is an interesting idea... I would need to us minimum of 12' 4x4's if I had 3' in the ground (In concrete?), 8' ceilings inside, plus whatever roof I could get... Hmmm...

How many poles would I need. I've not seen 2x6 tongue & groove yet...

I'm getting SO MANY different ideas I m having a hard time keeping them all straight.

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

there is concrete with fiber in it now that is great.

I have a laser level if you want to borrow it, sister in-law lives in Ladysmith so we are over that way once in a while, we live in Spotsy).

Istinhot,

HOWDY neighbor! We have a rental near Lake Anna (off 208, not on water) and another big house rental in Fredericksburg. We've been Spotsy residents for the last 7 years. Now we are Caoline Co. folks.

Thank You! you just reminded me I have a laser level somewhere in the basement! :thumbsup:

It is also nice to know we have "added fiber" concrete options.

You want to come over and play construction guy with me?:laughing:

David

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Red Horse and CrazyAl,

I want to make sure I am hearing you guys correctly. Are you suggesting I go get precast deck footings and just scrape away the top soil and set them on the clay?

This would be WONDERFUL and easy except for what about Frost? I've been told I need to go down 18" to pass the frost line...

David

 

[LD1]

LD1,

That is an interesting idea... I would need to us minimum of 12' 4x4's if I had 3' in the ground (In concrete?), 8' ceilings inside, plus whatever roof I could get... Hmmm...

How many poles would I need. I've not seen 2x6 tongue & groove yet...

I'm getting SO MANY different ideas I m having a hard time keeping them all straight.

David

Typically they are spaced 8' appart. On your 12' direction, you could get by with 6, but still use 12' lumber all the way across.

On the 20, for what it is, you could porbabally stretch the span to 10' without any issues, But I would consider making it a 24' building w/ posts on 8' centers.

8' lumber is the cheapest per foot. So any time you can build in increments of 8', the better.

2" x 6" x 8' #2 & Better Tongue & Groove Pressure Treated at Menards

 

[MossflowerWoods]

So I have learned that a 200 square foot shed does NOT need a permit.

So in order to be legal I will try to do this within 200 square feet! Something like 12' 4" x 16' 4" it seems... I am digging into the building codes to get clarity...

David