how to service and use a brush hog

rcrcomputing · May 15, 2005

Thanks Beenthere. I guess in this instance you really have beenthere. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Got her up and running. I mowed a little area that is more suited for a finish mower, but I was just playing for now. I'm fixin to head to the back where some real brush/saplings are. I had to take the top link off as when I raised the hog, the whole mower raised. Back end as well as front end. Does this mean my shaft is to long? Course, I'll need to raise it up going over the spillway.

It's a shear pin type. Where do I get shear pins?

BTW, I had a fellow drop by that had hooked them up before. Thanks to you guys, I knew more than he did. And I DID kill it and remove the key as instructed. He shook his head at that. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

What an adventure...

RoyJackson · May 15, 2005

"I had to take the top link off as when I raised the hog, the whole mower raised. Back end as well as front end. Does this mean my shaft is to long? Course, I'll need to raise it up going over the spillway."

If the entire cutter lifts when you raise the 3PH, you've got the top link too short. That's only useful if you transport the cutter. Otherwise, extend the length of the upper link so the cutter can follow the ground a bit better. Some folks remove that upper link and use a chain...I never have, but it works for them.

In fact, unless I'm running on pavement, if I need to transport the cutter, I just lift the front end (with the top link long) and tow the unit using the tail wheel to hold up the aft end of the cutter.
I don't do this over any great distance (maybe 50 yards) and it has never caused any problems.
I did this when I had the 670 since the cutter was as long as the tractor. Even with the loader installed, going up a 10° to 15° slope did make the front end extremely light. No problem on level ground though.

"BTW, I had a fellow drop by that had hooked them up before. Thanks to you guys, I knew more than he did. And I DID kill it and remove the key as instructed. He shook his head at that."

Well, when working around a PTO shaft, better safe then sorry. If one gets in the habit of putting the ignition key in their pocket while rigging implements, it'll become ingrained.
There was a link on TBN within the last month...showed pictures of men wrapped around shafts. As you can imagine, not a pretty sight! You would not want your wife or kids to find you like that. All it takes is one or two revolutions (just hitting the starter key, if the interlock isn't working).
Your buddy might shake his head and think "what a wuss...", but if an accident happens...it'll more likely be him and not you.

rcrcomputing · May 15, 2005

Two words. Oh My!

We had a successfull evening. Who needs a chain saw. I just run over them. hehe

You were right about the lightweight of the hog though. It now has a nice big dent that looks like the tree I backed into!

I ran over all the 1-2" saplings and plucked the 3" ones out with the toothbar as I went. Musta run over 500 of them. Wow! Shreded them up like nobody's bussiness.

BTW, I think I'll invest in some masks. I can hardly breathe..

Thanks for a successful adventure guys. There's more to do, but I'm tired.. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Thanks again!

tnmx · May 15, 2005

related i guess. what did i do wrong in attaching my brush hog - i bent my toplink at the brushhog end. it hit near the brushhog attachment point when i lowered it to cut. obviously it should be extended out more but exactly how do i know what is the correct setting? guess i could just leave that one attached to the brushhog and not worry... any advice here?

KiotiJohn · May 15, 2005

( what did i do wrong in attaching my brush hog - )
This is a bit hard to get for me without visualizing exactly how your set up is. It sounds more to me like you had the top link extended too far and possibly it was near the end of it's threads. When you lowered the link, the weakest part of the top link bent. But without a picture, I'm not sure.
Another thing, you always need to adjust the link at both ends at the same time so an equal amount of threads are showing. Probably not related to this, but I just thought about it as a possible problem.
Can you post a picture/s?
John

RalphVa · May 16, 2005

When my LX4 cutter (bush hog) was delivered, I couldn't raise it more than 1" higher than the set height for cutting. The problem was my top link was longer than the draft arms. Simple geometry then causes the top link to want to push the trail wheel back into the ground when the draft arms are raised, after the slip in the top assembly is taken up. The problem was caused by the dealer delivering the LX4 with the lift pins in their upper holes. I moved them to the lower holes. This caused the top link assemble to rotate closer to the tractor.

When I raise the LX4 with top link in place and properly adjusted for mowing height in the back, the draft arms raise both the front and the back. Here's a pic.

I find that the top link, even though it has about 4" of play in the LX4 top link assembly, is way too ridgid on my uneven ground. I have replaced with a chain. I use snap hooks at each end of the chain. The small end of the snap hooks let the 3/4" pins slide through.

Ralph

RalphVa · May 16, 2005

NOTE. In the picture, this is with the top link adjusted approximately right for cutting height. If shortened (like when they delivered it and had to take it down the trailer's steep ramp), it'll raise quite high.

With the chain in place, the front raises about 3-4", and the tail wheel stays on the ground. This has been enough to go over rises in the ground without the cutter hanging up. I run back to idle and cut it off if there's any danger in the blades hitting something over really rough ground when I have to move from one area to another. Otherwise, I can just raise it and leave it rotating.

Ralph

rcrcomputing · May 16, 2005

Due to the nature of this thread, I'm posting another coupla things I picked up from the manual. (Thanks John)

Center link should be installed in lowest hole at tractor end if there are multiple holes.

Due to direction of blade rotation, the cutter should be operated with uncut portion to the right-hand side. This allows grass knocked down by tractor tires on previous cut to be picked up and cut on next pass

Now on shear pins. Could you translate this into something at the hardware store? Like 3/8" x 4" grade 3?
(
Replace with 10.9 grade M10 x 80 cap screw and lock nut.
)

KenVT · May 16, 2005

( I had to take the top link off as when I raised the hog, the whole mower raised. Back end as well as front end. Does this mean my shaft is to long?
)

Your Top link sounds fine, the whole mower should lift off the groung if you lift the 3 pt all the way up, this is for transport, The float position seems to work fine on my tractor, but if there is no float, just lower the 3 pt 'till the whole mower slants slightly to the tractor, it will then follow the contours of the land to a degree. (it is not a finish mower)

And I agree.. Who needs a Chainsaw?

it is much more fun to run'em down and tear them out of the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Soundguy · May 17, 2005

Generally speaking, a gear box will have a fill and a fill-to hole. Some type of gear oil.. usually 80w90, 90w, or 85/140 oil is used.. you add oil till it appears at the fill-to line.

If you have to drain it.. tip it over or syphon out. generally we just keep it topped of though.

Soundguy