how to service and use a brush hog

[rcrcomputing]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
And, thanks to Soundguy for an old thread explaining, in detail, how to use chains to limit the front height of an implement ...
)</font>

Ok, you know the drill. Link to old thread??

 

[djradz]

I know someone will provide a specific link soon, but you also can search for "check chains".

 

[mries]

If you have a loader on your Kioti, lift the side of the cutter high enough (vertical)and let it roll slightly toward the tractor. If it goes over while you're working on the blades, it'll fall away from you and give you an escape route. The tractor can be fixed...you may too, depending on the injuries. I never get under an implement raised by the 3PH, even with jack stands. I will use air or water to spray the underside (while the unit is raised) to clean it, but I give it fair clearance.
Those cutters go 600 lbs or so..that's enough to crush you.

I have a new CK30 and a generic rotary cutter I bought with it from the dealer.

Why is the 3PH system more likely to fail/fall than the FEL hydrolics?

I asked the dealer about getting the cutter up to change blades. He said they prefer to do it at their shop using a fork-lift.

I am buying a set of FEL forklift bars (with chains and tensioners) for some other reasons, but am hoping that may be a better way to lift a cutter for service, but why should I think that the FEL is less prone to falling than the 3PH?

Thanks.

 

[RoyJackson]

I have a new CK30 and a generic rotary cutter I bought with it from the dealer.

Why is the 3PH system more likely to fail/fall than the FEL hydrolics?

I asked the dealer about getting the cutter up to change blades. He said they prefer to do it at their shop using a fork-lift.

I am buying a set of FEL forklift bars (with chains and tensioners) for some other reasons, but am hoping that may be a better way to lift a cutter for service, but why should I think that the FEL is less prone to falling than the 3PH?

Thanks.

The FEL is just as prone to dropping as the 3PH. The difference (if you re-read my post) is how the cutter is positioned...so if the hydraulics fail, or the loader drops, the cutter falls away from you. As you'd be standing, you have a better chance to get out of the way. Or, if it does go, you'd be on top of a 600 pound cutter rather then underneath it.
If you're working under the cutter and it falls...well, that would likely be the end of you. It's very unlikely you'd get out in time.

The main point is, you do not want to depend on the tractor hydraulics when it comes to safety. I suggest you park your tractor, raise the FEL, then shut the tractor's engine off. Then push the loader joystick forward...this will give you an idea how fast it can fall. Try the same thing with your cutter raised on the 3PH. Do you think you can move quick enough to get out from under it?

Even using a forklift, as your dealer does, isn't a good idea unless the forks can be mechanically locked or blocked in position while raised. They probably do it this way because it's fast.

 

[jsborn]

NEVER GET UNDER A SUPENDED LOAD WITHOUT USEING SAFETY STANDS!! CHAINS BREAK HYYDRAULICS FAIL AND ROPES BREAK AND NO ONE IS FAST ENOUGH TO GET OUT OF THE WAY.

 

[sandman2234]

I know it has been suggested that you back into the larger stuff, but be advised that it is a lot easier to bend the parts of your mower that are attached to the 3pt hitch, or the lower lift arms themselves when backing into stuff. I learned the hard way, and now only bush hog stuff that I can drive the tractor over. However, I do drive over some pretty big stuff, which isn't good for the tractor, either. I always figured if the tractor won't run over it, the bush hog probably shouldn't either. A good bumper with a grill guard is a must if your not lucky enough to have a front end loader (FEL).
M10 is simply a metric bolt and any bolt/fastener store will probably carry it. I generally carry about half a dozen shear bolts in my toolbox along with two nuts for each one, for locking them on. The two wrenches were suggested, but how about a hammer and punch, in case you have to punch out the broken piece? The new bolt usually works, but sometimes the sheared piece can use a little persuasion.
Did anyone mention taking the two halves of the bush hog pto shaft apart and greasing them so they will slide easier? If so, I missed it, but thought it was worth mentioning. The grease fittings at each end are for the u-joints, not the slip part of that shaft.
David from jax