Htydraulic Connections to Implements

[CurlyDave]

I have a JD 110 TLB and just bought a new Rock Bucket with grapple for it.

The bucket fits perfectly and is easy to change with the exception that making the connection between the hydraulic lines on the tractor and those on the implement (either the new rock bocket or the old 4-n-1) is extremely difficult.

I think I have 1/2" flat hydraulic connectors.

I know how to relieve the hydraulic pressure in the lines on the tractor, but even with the pressure relieved, forcing the male end of the connector into the female recepticle is a very difficult job, especially for a geezer.

And, to make it even worse, if I take one bucket off in the morning, by the afternoon, thermal expansion has increased the hydraulic prressure in the system and mating the connectors moves from very difficult to downright impossible.

Does anyone make a tool for helping with making this connection?

If all else fails, I am going to try using a good-quality caulking gun to try to apply pressure to force the fittings together, while holding the locking ring on the female connector back with one hand. One end of the gun has a U-shaped opening of almost exactly the right size to catch behind the connector. The part that pushes on the caulk tube is round, however, which is not really the shape I want.

If there isn't a ready-made tool, any ideas on how to jury-rig one?

I don't have a really good picture of the connectors, but they are just barely visible under the hydraulic cylinder at the upper right corner of the attachment.

Thanks guys.

 

[3RRL]

Dave,
I don't have your problem nor have I heard of a tool to do what you want.
I've never tried this but it is an idea...

1) Get yourself a large set of channel lock pliers (a cheap one like at Harbor Freight)
2) Get a short piece of pipe maybe ½" long and cut a slot lengthways wide enough to fit over the hose so it will catch the back of the connector (much like the caulking gun idea)...or any sturdy "U" shaped piece.
3) Check to see if you have to weld it on some sort of angle to be square to the bracket that retains the female connector.
4) Weld it near the tip of moveable jaw on the channel lock pliers.
5) Make sure the channel lock expands large enough to grab the other connector bracket when at it's largest slip joint setting.
6) Slip "U" shape behind male, hold open locking ring on female and squeeze together.

Might work?

 

[PineRidge]

I use a short piece of copper tube that has a cap soldered on one end. I place it over the male connector and hit it with the palm of my hand. I can direct the oil away from me and it immediately removes excess pressure so you can make the hook-up easier.

 

[jinman]

And, to make it even worse, if I take one bucket off in the morning, by the afternoon, thermal expansion has increased the hydraulic prressure in the system and mating the connectors moves from very difficult to downright impossible.

Does anyone make a tool for helping with making this connection?

If there isn't a ready-made tool, any ideas on how to jury-rig one?

The best tool is an extra couple of female connectors. When you remove the rock bucket and connectors, just slip your spare female connectors onto the male and any pressure that builds up will just drip out onto the ground. If it has to be clean, put the ends into a baggie and put a rubber band around them or just drop the lines down into a coffee can or similar container. The expansion oil won't amount to much. You can spend a lot of time and effort making a pressure release tool, but the best way in my book is to keep it from building up in the first place.

 

[SkyPup]

I've got an L-39 TLB with an ANBO root grapple that weighs 850 lbs.

I never have any problem either attaching or removing the Pioneer 1/2" hydraulic couplers. They just slip right on and off in an instant.

Be sure to set the FEL on the ground and wiggle the joystick in all directions to relieve any pressure, and also set the BH on the ground and relieve all pressure on it too as well as the stabilizers.

I do have the male ends mounted on the tractor, and the females on the grapple as in this pic:

 

[pekabu]

I took my loader off once and had the same issue. I couldn't push in the mail nipple to releive the pressure on one line, so I had to take two wrenches and loosen one of the fittings to let some pressure out. All went easy after that. Haven't removed it since!

 

[PineRidge]

Dave a pressure build up within the hydraulic lines of your parked FEL shouldn't keep you from removing the FEL when you need to. We yank ours whenever we mow and learned to deal with the pressure buildup a long time ago. I also always keep a rag on my rig to wipe the oil off my hands.

 

[Soundguy]

Wrapping the male end in a rag and rapping it on a hard surface nose first works well too.

I like the other posters idea of the extra female QD"s. Heck.. just rig up a piece of filter material to attach to the back of it.. then don't worry about contaminants.. ( stiff piece of sponge ? )

Soundguy

 

[firemanpat2910]

On our jaws of life units on my firetruck we always hook the implement hoses back to each other to prevent pressure build up. I dont know if you have enough hose to do this with or not but its better than having a open female attatched to the male(our fluid is very corrosive)

 

[Soundguy]

why so corrosive?

Soundguy

 

[firemanpat2910]

I dont know. probably so each competitor sells you a whole system instead of 1 tool. " you cant use our pump with so&sos machine it will eat the seals ouy of it" is the only explination I get. I know I got sprayed in the eye when a rookie hit the male end of a pressurised hose and even with imediate eye washing it burned like mad. I want to say it is phosphurus based but I am not sure.

 

[Soundguy]

Sounds like a valid reason... product positioning.. make your stuff incompatible with the competition.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[deerhunterf350]

Maybe it is a BackUp to the Jaws of Life, if they Break, simply cut the Hose spray Corrosive fluid over wrecked door, wait 30 seconds and whole side of car is easily accessable to free victim.

Just kidding

Seriouly though, wouldn't the "Corrosive" fluid damage the cyclinders,pump, and any other mechanisms in the Jaws of Life.

 

[deerhunterf350]

I got the answer after I posted.

 

[firemanpat2910]

not if you use their brand but supposibly if you mix brands. I just looked up the MSDS on the fluid it says mildly irritating in eyes. Somebody is a whole lot tougher than me

 

[jinman]

I dont know. probably so each competitor sells you a whole system instead of 1 tool. " you cant use our pump with so&sos machine it will eat the seals ouy of it" is the only explination I get. I know I got sprayed in the eye when a rookie hit the male end of a pressurised hose and even with imediate eye washing it burned like mad. I want to say it is phosphurus based but I am not sure.

Since you are a fire department, perhaps your fluid is similar to Skydrol that is used extensively in the aviation industry because of it's high heat performance and clean operation. It will cause bladder problems and other "issues" if humans are exposed to it. It's also reddish-purple in color. I does contain a phosphate.

 

[Soundguy]

That explains alot!

thanks

soundguy

 

[dubba]

CurlyDave, I can sympathize with your condition. I found that hooking the implement lines together after removal, before removal of the implement, is how I get-r-done. When going to rehook, release the implement lines slowly from each other. I have found it will leak any expansion pressure in the grapple.

 

[PineRidge]

CurlyDave, I can sympathize with your condition. I found that hooking the implement lines together after removal, before removal of the implement, is how I get-r-done. When going to rehook, release the implement lines slowly from each other. I have found it will leak any expansion pressure in the grapple.

The grapple is the biggest offender for me. I had thought of making a hydraulic loop when it's disconnected from the tractor but quite frankly didn't think the loop idea would be an effective fix.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Vise Grip makes a tool, #10LW, that will hold hex and round items very firmly w/o marring. Not a solution, but a good handle.
Larry