Hub to axle seal job complete on a 1533, Photos

  
  • Thread Starter
#51  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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I just came on to reply to a PM over this subject so I thought I would stop in the thread to reply to these post... So knowing I did see them and sorry for not letting you both know earlier...

Anyone using this thread have any stories on the job that hasn't already posted of their repair?

This is happening on my 1528 so this is probably the same procedure.

Great reference!

I would think so, if there is drop spindles.

I'm pretty sure it is. The 1529 might be the same as yours. But I think the concept is the same. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words!!

Nothing beats photos for sure!

Just to add here... For people looking for the missing photos from the 1st post, they have been posted on page 4 of this thread... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...hub-axle-seal-job-complete-4.html#post3210680
Thanks Darryl for your help on letting me know what pics were missing...

Something is going on with the gallery on this web site, so I posted the photos on another site and link them here...

Missing, #2
hubsealjob2_zps7266bb82.jpg


Missing, #9
hubsealjob9_zpse61f7455.jpg


#2 was just showing the tractor on jack stands.

#9 I believe I was just pointing out to make sure the old seal (inner part of that seal, if you look real close you can see the old inner part of the seal is still there, that rust is the old seal liner and not the spindle) was removed from the top of the drop spindle and to make sure to clean and lube with a bit of axle lube/oil on the new seal before putting everything back together.

Sorry for the pics not showing in my 1st post, not sure what is going on with the gallery on this web site.
 

CZJon

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14
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Houston, TX
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na
Yes I would have to say "all of a sudden". I was cutting grass and seen a "fluid blow out" on my right side tire, lucky I was cutting grass, because I was looking down in that area following my cut line. I was hoping it was a pressure blow out, as in, pressure built up by heat (because the front axle has no vent, I believe). Check and filled and all seemed fine, but as soon as the seal got warm it started leaking again. The leak was like a drip every 3 seconds or so, yes a small leak, but a leak is a leak.

The leak started at about 300hrs.

The job isn't that hard when you "find" the info to do it, if like me you never have done this type of job. It took about 2hrs, 1 1/2 hours for the job and the 1/2hr was the time finding the tools I needed and clean up after. If I have to do it again, I think I could get it done in no more then 1hr start to clean up.

NOTE TO ADD TO MY 1ST POST ABOVE...One thing I didn't say about the seal above and I hope it is noticed in this post... The seal is a 2 piece design. When dropping the hub, the one piece will stay on the axle, you must "slowly" work that seal off because it is a tight fit over a polished machined surface.

Parts cost from my dealer were, $28 for the seal and $10 for the bottom cap seal.

Here is the thread where I was asking for help for the repair. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...28574-swivel-housing-seal-leaking-1533-a.html

In the link above, you are talking with another member about a Dealer Notice on Cavitation - I notice the member that was going to send you the notice was banned. Do you still have that PDF that he sent you on the dealer Bulletin?

Thanks!
 
   #53  

cmb1998

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In the link above, you are talking with another member about a Dealer Notice on Cavitation - I notice the member that was going to send you the notice was banned. Do you still have that PDF that he sent you on the dealer Bulletin?

Thanks!

Great write up! For anyone else with a 1528, the part #'s are different.

Any secrets to getting to bottom cover off? I got everything else pulled apart, but looking for help getting the cover off.

Thanks,

Chris
 
   #54  

cmb1998

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7
Rebuilding the outboard on my boat gave me less problems than this! The hub seal on mine was rusted in place. Got it off, got the first snap ring out, but the axle shaft won't drop out. Should it drop out once you remove the snap ring?




I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
 

bakkenkl

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May 24, 2016
Messages
1
Location
Byron
Tractor
MF 1635
Great tutorial, thanks! Just got everything apart on my 1635. P/N's are the same as for the 1533, except the seals have been updated to a 'version' 3. Some notes that i wanted to add:

1) for me, I had to 'destroy' the bottom cap... i.e. drive a screwdriver into the edge and pry it out. Perhaps a more patient approach would have gotten it out intact.

2) same for removing the seal. I had to 'grab' it with a vicegrips and pry it out.

3) I too had a heck of a time getting the snap rings out, especially the inner one. Good tools are highly underrated....

4) an alternative idea to supporting the hub while you take out the inner snap ring is to use a binding strap (I used a cam-buckle canoe strap)_ to hold the hub 'up'. A jack certainly works, but then its in the way for getting the snap ring out.

5) I too had a hard time getting the tie-rod 'bolt' out of the casting. I ended up jacking up the nut end (with the nut out to the end of the bolt to protect the threads) about 1/2" , then hitting the top of the casting. I also squirted in some WD-40, although I'm not sure if that helped or not. Heating up the casting didn't seem to help either.

Kirby
 

Shaya99

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ocala
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MF 1428V
Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
1231171408.jpg
 
  
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MrSteve

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Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
View attachment 534042

Shaya99... I think one of two things could have happened here. Either the bearing is not seating on the axle correctly (you say it is) or the more then likely problem, you didn't remove the "2nd" piece of the seal on the axle and that is stopping the bearing from riding all the way up, (because you are saying the seal looks different, it really isn't, you just didn't get the other piece off)... When I say axle, I am referring to the dropped polished piece that everything mounts to.

Here is a quote from a few post down from me on the 1st page, I wasn't able to edit my 1st post at the time to add this info...

NOTE TO ADD TO MY 1ST POST ABOVE...One thing I didn't say about the seal above and I hope it is noticed in this post... The seal is a 2 piece design. When dropping the hub, the one piece will stay on the axle, you must "slowly" work that seal off because it is a tight fit over a polished machined surface.

Found a missing photo to point out what needs to be removedUntitled.jpg And looking at your photo blown up, it sure looks like that seal piece is still there... It might be worth buying another seal if you put as much force trying to seat everything as you said you did, I would be shocked if the new seal wasn't damaged. Let us know how you make out.
 
Last edited:
   #58  

Shaya99

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MF 1428V
Shaya99... I think one of two things could have happened here. Either the bearing is not seating on the axle correctly (you say it is) or the more then likely problem, you didn't remove the "2nd" piece of the seal on the axle and that is stopping the bearing from riding all the way up, (because you are saying the seal looks different, it really isn't, you just didn't get the other piece off)... When I say axle, I am referring to the dropped polished piece that everything mounts to.

Here is a quote from a few post down from me on the 1st page, I wasn't able to edit my 1st post at the time to add this info...



Found a missing photo to point out what needs to be removedView attachment 534067 And looking at your photo blown up, it sure looks like that seal piece is still there... It might be worth buying another seal if you put as much force trying to seat everything as you said you did, I would be shocked if the new seal wasn't damaged. Let us know how you make out.

Thank you, I had called local dealer today and he explained it veryt well. Yes I did not remove the top part of that seal that was stuck onto the axle. Makes sense now....Your new photo helps....I will check for damage when I complete the job, if it is damaged, I did buy a second seal for the other side if I ever need it (that one not leaking now...).
Thanks for the input
 

WhiteRam

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MF 1635
Just subbing here for future reference. Thanks.
 
   #60  

schoolsout

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Awendaw, SC
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Massey Ferguson 1533
I think we'll be doing our 3rd seal very soon. Tractor has 1150 hours on it and I think one side gives us more of an issue than the other, but I didn't write down any notes. How long are y'all getting out of these seals?
 
   #61  

66chevelle

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MF1635 TBL,
Is there any reason that the hub will not drop after removing both snap rings, lower gear and shaft? Although I'm working on a MF1635 the schematics are identical to the 1533.

Thanks
 
  
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MrSteve

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Is there any reason that the hub will not drop after removing both snap rings, lower gear and shaft? Although I'm working on a MF1635 the schematics are identical to the 1533.

Thanks

I would guess the 2 piece seal is holding it from dropping. Try giving the hub some taps on the side with a 'plastic' hammer while pulling down and see if drops then. If it dose, just remember the one side of the seal is still stuck on the axle.
 
Last edited:
   #63  

66chevelle

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Unfortunately it's a no go, after trying the other side with the same results I must be missing something.. Used the BFH (rubber shot one) and pounded away with zero movement. I have noticed that the outer bearing surface moved freely but the inter stays put. Thought about applying heat to it, but don't wish to either damage the bearing or set fire to the inner workings. any other ideas would be appreciated. Attached pictures to show removed split rings. 20190703_141350.jpg20190703_141549.jpg
 
  
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MrSteve

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Unfortunately it's a no go, after trying the other side with the same results I must be missing something.. Used the BFH (rubber shot one) and pounded away with zero movement. I have noticed that the outer bearing surface moved freely but the inter stays put. Thought about applying heat to it, but don't wish to either damage the bearing or set fire to the inner workings. any other ideas would be appreciated. Attached pictures to show removed split rings. View attachment 611440View attachment 611462

I reduced this photo, look at yours at full size to see what I am seeing...

Did you remove the lock ring with pliers/screwdriver something other then lock ring pliers? The reason I ask, there looks like there is a purr on the drop axle. If this is the case, the bearing inner race could be stuck on that purr and that is why the hub wont drop.
 

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   #65  

mike194

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AGCO ST30X
With the help of this thread, I was able to replace both seals on my AGCO ST30x. I struggled to get the bottom cap off, to solve this I drilled a hole in the cap and ran a self tapping screw into the hole and pryed it out that way. (Assuming you have new caps).

also remember to support the housing when you take off the second snap ring, you wouldn't want it to fall on your face.

It's great this post is helping people 12 years later !
 
  
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MrSteve

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With the help of this thread, I was able to replace both seals on my AGCO ST30x. I struggled to get the bottom cap off, to solve this I drilled a hole in the cap and ran a self tapping screw into the hole and pryed it out that way. (Assuming you have new caps).

also remember to support the housing when you take off the second snap ring, you wouldn't want it to fall on your face.

It's great this post is helping people 12 years later !

It is something Mike, still good after so many years!
 
   #67  

dotman

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Massey Ferguson
Hello Mr Steve! I need help and so glad your still replying to this old thread. Here is my situation. 2014 MF 1529 compact. No bottom cap like yours. Had to remove outer hub which gives me a small access to the first snap ring. After breaking two pliers I got it undone but not completely off. I was then able to drop the hub off. Now I am stuck. I cannot pull out the rod and inter bearing since it seems I needed to remove the first snap ring all he way off. So here are my questions.

1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?

2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

Trying to save $600 from the local shop but this has been painful. Thank you so much for your help and advice.
 
  
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MrSteve

MrSteve

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Hello Mr Steve! I need help and so glad your still replying to this old thread. Here is my situation. 2014 MF 1529 compact. No bottom cap like yours. Had to remove outer hub which gives me a small access to the first snap ring. After breaking two pliers I got it undone but not completely off. I was then able to drop the hub off. Now I am stuck. I cannot pull out the rod and inter bearing since it seems I needed to remove the first snap ring all he way off. So here are my questions.


1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?
2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

Trying to save $600 from the local shop but this has been painful. Thank you so much for your help and advice.

I'll try to help, but not knowing if the 1529 is the same might not be easy.

1. How to now remove the snap ring since it is blocking the removal of the rod pulling out. I cannot widening it enough around the rod or do I need to?

If you feel you can get the seal around the drop spindle (I assume that is what you are calling the rod?), then I guess you could keep it as it is and work around it. But IMO, it would be best to get the knuckle right off the tractor.

2. Since I now have access to the top where the seal is located how in the world can I get that removed? Heat? It is completely stuck on the hub casing. Btw I do not see any of it on the down support so I just need to get it off the casing. As I pick and prod it is all falling into the shaft and bearings. Did not think that was good so I stopped.

If it is the same type of seal in the pictures in my 1st post... Seal on top of the bearing. Take a flat bladed screwdriver (Or use the tool of your choice, angled ended pry bar, etc) and put it between the seal and bearing, then rotate (twist) the screw driver while walking it around the lower part of the seal, to pop the seal out, you are using the bearing as the leverage point to pop the seal. Now remember if this is a 2 piece seal, there could be part of the seal (a collar) still on the spindle, that also must be removed. Look at your new seal, if you put your fingers in the center of the seal and hold tight (push you fingers out) then try to rotate the outer section, if the outer section moves, then it is a 2 piece seal.

3. I do not really see a need to get the second snap ring since I can now get to the seal. So that may make my first question mute. Assuming you agree.

I guess this points to my 1st reply.

I'll keep an eye out for your reply of the outcome. Good luck.
 
   #69  

cdaigle430

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Three things I can suggest as I just did mine 2 months ago-Do both sides as well as the upper and lower seals. You have to drain all the fluid anyway and you can bet the other will fail as well.
I tried several methods to put the upper seal on but the best one was with a sedge hammer and some patients. I used a muffler coupler and the old seal to hammer it back on. Some actually take the whole axle end off to do this.

I added a heavier recommended lube in the front axle after instead of the hydraulic-but if you hadn't replaced the upper seal then thats why yours keeps leaking.
 
   #70  

dotman

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Massey Ferguson
Hello again. Back at it. Not getting very far. I have spent hours trying to pick out the old seal. The new seal seems to be a one piece with a inter metal ring. I cannot make t spin. Seems to be much larger then the first one but I have hacked and cut it up in little pieces you couldn稚 tell. Still no original inter metal ring as far as I can tell.

I need to send pics somehow as I知 sure this has to be completely clean before the new one goes in. I notice everyone else has been able to take the drop spindle out but mine is still in there probably due to the split ring just hanging around the spindle. Lots of debris has fallen inside the bearings and now they grind.

Any other way to send pics on this forum?
 

Vinny6266

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Massey Ferguson 1428V
Just replaced front axle seals on my MF 1428V. Or at least I attempted to...went smoothly following the instructions in this post. However I cant get the axle hub to fully seat at the top gasket seal where it sits inside the axle. See pics attached. I ordered correct parts from the dealer. It seemed like a very tight fit before mounting. I inserted this gasket into the hub assembly first..and I have the beveled edge of the gasket up like it should be. Is there a trick to getting this inserted?...tried all the tricks, well lubed...bearings arent getting hung up...I even put the tire back on in hopes that the weight of the tractor would help push it in and seat it all the way. I did notice the new gasket looks different than the leaky one I removed, were they remanfactured recently?
Anybody else have this issue with similar tractor?
View attachment 534042

Hi, I hope you guys are still looking at this post. I need to change both sides on my 2003 1428V Hydrostatic, I am hoping you can help me with a part number for the seal. I bought the tractor this year from a dealer in Ontario and his mechanic sent me a page with the part number highlighted ( 3709149M91 and the top of the page says Chassis- Final Gear Case System (F type) ) but when I look on the Agro parts book site under the hydro I get (4266334M91) Do you know if the F type is for the non Hydro model, it looks like this is the case. Any help you can provide would be very appreciated. Thank you
 
  
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MrSteve

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I was asked by a member to see if I could find the photos that aren't showing up in my 1st post... 13 years later, I found them on a CD (lol who says CDs in computers are dead). Photos posted, part 1
 

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MrSteve

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Photos posted, part2...
 

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Aspudko

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Mar 29, 2020
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Massey Ferguson 1529
EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
Hello sir, my 1529 just started doing the same thing. I can't view the pictures. Could you share them again?
 

Aspudko

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2
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Massey Ferguson 1529
EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
EDIT... Photos that are missing are on page 8, posted 3-31-2021


I had a leaking seal on my pass side front hub to axle and I did the job today. I thought I would post some photos to maybe help others with this job. Looking for info on the net to help me out (I never did this job before) wasn't easy, there is nothing about the 1533.

So to the photos, if you have any questions please ask. I "think" I added the words needed to explain each photo.

Parts needed.

Lower cap seal #3758152M1
Hub to axle seal #6240892M91
2gal of Hydraulic fluid
Cotter pin (for tie rod nut)

21835hubsealjob1.JPG


21835hubsealjob2.JPG


21835hubsealjob3.JPG


21835hubsealjob4.JPG


21835hubsealjob5.JPG


21835hubsealjob6.JPG


21835hubsealjob7.JPG


21835hubsealjob8.JPG


21835hubsealjob9.JPG


Hammer, screw driver, 9/16 wrench, 5/8 wrench, pliers, Snap ring pliers (9" or longer, any shorter will not do), impact gun (if your lazy like me for taking off the wheel) with 24mm socket. The tape is there to give a size measurement, its open to 18".
21835hubsealjob10.JPG
Does the front axle take regular hydraulic fluid or 80w90?
 
  
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MrSteve

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Sep 12, 2005
Messages
487
Location
Middleport, NY
Tractor
John Deere 2025R
Hello sir, my 1529 just started doing the same thing. I can't view the pictures. Could you share them again?
Did you check above your 1st post? I know they aren't showing on the 1st page but they are above.

Oil type... I am not sure (tractor has been gone for many years), I just can't remember. It could be hydraulic/trans oil or 80W90. You should be able to see/smell what type it is, not sure what the hydraulic smells like but we all know how gear oil smells.
 
 
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