TractorBluez
New member
Has anyone tried setting up a rear blade with a hydraulic motor for 360-degree rotation? Or does this fall into the "dumb idea" category.
It’s possibleHas anyone tried setting up a rear blade with a hydraulic motor for 360-degree rotation? Or does this fall into the "dumb idea" category.
Thank you for your comments everyone. I had a feeling the forces on the hydraulic motor could be an issue. D & D, I hope your project turns out well after all the thought you've put into it. Like you, I'm tired of getting on/off the tractor to adjust the blade. Would be really nice to adjust it in each direction and angle from the tractor seat when snowplowing driveways.Has anyone tried setting up a rear blade with a hydraulic motor for 360-degree rotation? Or does this fall into the "dumb idea" category.
How often do you need 360° rotation? Are you switching between pushing and pulling a lot?
90° rotation (+45°, -45°) would be easy enough with hydraulic cylinders. Then a pin would allow you to reverse it, but that would require leaving the seat.
There are probably a few ways to achieve the 360° rotation. Perhaps a large rotating table plus a large ring and pinion gear.
I'm not sure what would be able to donate a ring and pinion. A typical starter motor ring and pinion likely wouldn't be sturdy enough. Are there drive gears for a small dozer?
Perhaps head to a tractor recycler and see what strikes your fancy. Good heavy duty hub + the ring and pinion.
I like the idea of looking for a scrap small grader, or scrap mini excavator.
A cutting edge on the backside of the blade would defeat the purpose for spinning it around. The purpose is to use the smooth non-cutting side to move snow or smooth gravel without cutting into the gravel roadbed.I was thinking go with the much easier hydraulic cylinder angle plan and put a cutting edge on both sides of the blade so it wouldn’t need to spin 360.
Another way could be using the motor for rotation, then adding a small cylinder that would push a pin through a hole on a round plate full of holes. This cylinder would lock the blade in position.
A crossover relief valve could be added to the motor in case you forgot to lock the blade, so it would just let go before causing any damage.
If you're limited by number of remotes, a diverter valve could be used to switch the control valve between motor and cylinder.
This way does require "finding" the right position so the pins goes in the hole but still better than leaving the tractor all the time to adjust the blade in my opinion.
Also, I say small cylinder, as in small diameter, so it doesn't have enough force to bend stuff if the pin is not aligned with the hole.
Yes, unfortunately I do switch from pushing to pulling a lot as I'm doing multiple small driveways in a subdivision without a lot of room to maneuver. I like your ideas about a large ring and pinion gear setup, but I'm most intrigued by D & D's heavy duty worm gear setup. Wouldn't the forces from the blade be on the worm gear and not transfer to the hydraulic motor?