Hydraulic pump weak

/ Hydraulic pump weak #21  
DwayneB said:
Yes you are right, it was the differential I was just calling the whole mess the tranny.

I guess I am a fool then cause I'd take the bet.




The tranny and the differential don't share the same oil.

Ronald
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #22  
Ranch_Hand_Supp said:
The tranny and the differential don't share the same oil.

Ronald



DwayneB, My post was a question... I left off my question mark.



If I only had a brain......

Ronald
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #23  
Leave the 15-40 in it forever , there is nothing wrong with using it (and i did say if your sure it is worn out and just want to give it a little pep). We in Australia use it in everything , truck and tractor transmissions , engines , hydraulics and all , some manufacturers recomend it , ive never heard of a complaint . We would not be able to change gears with a 90 weight in our gearboxes on cold mornings so we all use 15-40 and on hot days 10w hydraulic oil losses it's viscosity so we use it in the hydraulics , Caterpillar dozers use it from one end to the other .
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #24  
Ranch_Hand_Supp said:
DwayneB, My post was a question... I left off my question mark.
If I only had a brain......
Ronald

Yes they share the same oil ;)
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Answers to some questions:

1. I don't know the pressures, and don't yet have a guage. How do you hook it up, and where?
2. The 3PT rear end arms are slow also.
3. Yes, I did put in the 15w/40, and it improved the speed a bit.
4. The 2 valves (one under the seat and the other is just above the outlet to the filter) to regulate the loader and the one for the rear 3PT arms are wide open.
5. When the system is cold it works faster...don't know if that helps.
6.
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #27  
lakespirit said:
1. I don't know the pressures, and don't yet have a guage. How do you hook it up, and where?.
Unless your dealer used it for something else, there should be a small pipe sticking out the side of the lift box. It's about 1/2" pipe, comes out about 2 inches, then makes a 90 degree bend, and is capped off (or might have a QD connector). That's one place, but you have to turn a hex head valve to direct flow to that pipe. While flow is going to that pipe, it will not be going to the loader and rear lift.

If the rear lift speed is as slow and reluctant as the loader, then your original diagnosis of "weak pump" is likely accurate. You have not mentioned visible leaks anywhere, but have you perhaps noticed low fluid level in the lift box? If yes, does it correspond with unexpected higher levels of gear oil in the rea end? With the hydraulic dipstick out, can you see air bubbles in the fluid when operating the lift/loader?

About the 15W40, it's your choice. Personally, I wouldn't even think of leaving it in there. If it hasn't already, it will emulsify soon.

//greg//
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak
  • Thread Starter
#28  
On the 2 valves I mentioned. Does having both open have an affect on my system even though there's nothing running on the capped-off pipe you decsribed? So if I understand, I would put a pressure gauge on the end of the capped pipe? Then what's the process for checking the pressure?

I don't see an excessive amount of oil leaking anywhere, and I hadn't thought to check the differential level, but will do so. Although I don't seem to be adding oil to the hydraulic tank.
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak
  • Thread Starter
#29  
So if I decided to upgrade to a more powerful pump, is it a huge deal to pull the old one and put the new one in? Would it bolt into the place the old one is?
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak
  • Thread Starter
#30  
greg_g said:
Unless your dealer used it for something else, there should be a small pipe sticking out the side of the lift box. It's about 1/2" pipe, comes out about 2 inches, then makes a 90 degree bend, and is capped off (or might have a QD connector). That's one place, but you have to turn a hex head valve to direct flow to that pipe. While flow is going to that pipe, it will not be going to the loader and rear lift.

If the rear lift speed is as slow and reluctant as the loader, then your original diagnosis of "weak pump" is likely accurate. You have not mentioned visible leaks anywhere, but have you perhaps noticed low fluid level in the lift box? If yes, does it correspond with unexpected higher levels of gear oil in the rea end? With the hydraulic dipstick out, can you see air bubbles in the fluid when operating the lift/loader?

About the 15W40, it's your choice. Personally, I wouldn't even think of leaving it in there. If it hasn't already, it will emulsify soon.

//greg//

Why would the oil emulsify there and not in the crankcase? Isn't water the culprit that causes this?
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #31  
Water, yes. On normally functioning systems, it's simply easier for water to get into the hydraulic system than it is to get into the engine. That's why quality hydraulic fluid contains water absorbtion (demuslifying) agents that engine oil doesn't.

//greg//
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #33  
Pressure relief valve not closing fully?
larry
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak
  • Thread Starter
#34  
There's a number on the plate that looks like EN306. Anyway, as I was idling for about 30 minutes, I was unable to get the loader to even lift until I was around 2200rpm. The pump was hot to the touch. And, as I burned my knuckle on the sucker, I remembered a time about a year ago when I got it hot as a firecracker.

Thoughts?
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #35  
Hot pumps are usually working hard.. a hard working pump that doesn't seem to be doing much tot he hyds on the machine usually means it is working against a relief.. that would make me think of a spool or valve failure.. or a bad QD downstream of the relief valve.

soundguy
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #37  
Google spool.

Anything running off the hyds got a valve.. including your 3pt, and the laoder.

for instance.. if the loader valve was muffed up, and making the hyd pump work against relief.. then that would cause this problem.. IE.. pressure not directed to tank when spool in neutral ( open center ) position.. etc.

soundguy
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #38  
lakespirit said:
There's a number on the plate that looks like EN306. Anyway, as I was idling for about 30 minutes, I was unable to get the loader to even lift until I was around 2200rpm. The pump was hot to the touch. And, as I burned my knuckle on the sucker, I remembered a time about a year ago when I got it hot as a firecracker.

Thoughts?

Take your tractor to a mechanic, if you are indeed having all of these problems.
If your pump got "hot as a firecracker" a year ago, you should have checked the seals in the pump last year. A "firecracker hot" pump will degrade the seals in the pump and should be replaced as soon as possible.
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #39  
The 306 pump is the basic pump used on tractors without front loaders. it is around 3gpm and will be slow under the best of conditions. We stock a 314 replacement that will speed things up, more than doubling the flow rate. This of course does not take into account any potential restriction in the system (often caused by mismatched quick connect fittings, etc).
 
/ Hydraulic pump weak #40  
lakespirit said:
Spool?? which valve? Can you show me, please?
You have a couple of choices as I see it. Since you seem to be afraid to open the pump and look for damage you could take the tractor to a mechanic or buy the new pump from chip and remove all the guts from your quick connects. With the new pump on and all flow restrictions removed, start the tractor. If it starts easy with no lugging on the engine the pump is not dead heading. Anyone that has used hydraulics much knows the sound of a system going against the relief valve.

That would be a CBN-306 , you need at least a 314 for good loader speed anyway.

If the pump is dead heading at startup you are going to have a hard time starting the tractor with the added load.
 

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