Hydraulic pump weak

[RonMar]

Are you using a stock/chinese spec hydro filter on it? Are you sure it is a mesh strainer cartridge? If it is the same number as the original you replaced, do you still have the original to cut apart and examine the media?

If it was a QD restricting flow, then the pump would be getting hot from the restriction. If you suspect it is a QD, the chinese QD's are real easy to disassemble and remove the checkball mechanism. It only takes a set of snap ring pliars. The ring, spring plate, spring and ball are easilly removed. This of course has to be done with both QD halfs of any two that will ever be put together. This is easy to do for the loader QD's as they are only ever mated to their counterparts or themselvs on loader/tractor . You will loose a little fluid if you ever have to take the loader on/off, but only a little as you dis-reconnect the fittings. And if a QD is ever inadvertently disconected, you won't deadhead the pump.

Have you actually measured the pump output volume? If you have a half remote on the back, and another Quick Connect(mine came with a set in the spare parts). This is probably the easiest way. Or you can remove a loader line and run it into a bucket and send fluid to the bucket with the loader control valve. Time how long it takes to fill a gallon bucket, then dump the fluid in the bucket back into the resovoir. You will need to know two other pieces of info to make use of this timed gallon delivery.
1. Volume per revolution of your particular pump. This is probably expressed as Millileters per revolution ML/R(3785.412 ML per gallon)
2. Pump drive gear ratio if any(there are 4 gears involved on a Y385 engine, but I don't know the ratios), so you know how many RPM the pump is turning.

 

[greg_g]

Disregard what I said about rising engine oil level Jeff, I forgot yours is a PTO pump. But I'm still curious if this is just a loader problem - or if your rear lift is affected too

//greg//

 

[lakespirit]

I am not the technical sort as many of you are. I don't have a way to measure pressure or flow. My oil never gets to hot. The loader and the 3Pt arms are slow.

I changed out the oil and put in 15w/40 which seems to improve speed initially, but I still don't have the lifting capacity I once had. I still cannot get the bucket to lift the front tires aven an inch.

My filter is the small cylindrical screen-mesh in a housing on the outside of the reservoir. I could not find any blockages and had all the QD's off, as well as all fittings at the control valve. Everything seems to flow quite well, as the huge flood of oil proved.

 

[greg_g]

Putting engine oil in the hydraulic system is an expensive experiment. I really hope you don't intend to keep it in there permanently. It's not formulated for the kind of heat and pressure generated in hydraulic applications. besides, a 5 gallon container of AW68 hydraulic fluid is typically less expensive than 5 gallons of 15W40 - and you wouldn't likely have had to drain it out when finished with the experiment.

Anyway, done is done. That money's gone. And I'd hate to see you spend more on a pump you may not need either. But before we can go there, I still have no idea if this issue is limited to your loader - or if your rear lift is affected as well. This is important - because the same pump provides fluid to both.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Lake spirit.. invest in a 0-3000 psi pressure gauge....It's a very usefull tool when playing the guessing game about hyds. Also.. please answer some of the questions that are being posed to you.. it helps us narrow down what parts of the circuit are effected.

soundguy

 

[DwayneB]

I am not the technical sort as many of you are.

If your pump has ever dead headed I would say there is a 100% chance the seals in the hydraulic pump blew. Or if one of your relief valves is set a little too high it could of damaged the pump seals. These little pumps won't stand much over 2000 lbs.

Like soundguy said, a pressure gauge will tell you quick about your pump or restrictions.

For what you spent on oil you could of rebuilt the pump. They are very simple. 1 seal, 2 o-rings, and 2 W shaped seals. 4 bolts hold the 3 main pieces together. If the shaft and gears and bushings are ok a new seal kit will make it good as new.

BTW, almost all of todays new zero turn mowers use 20W50 motor oil for hydraulic fluid.

 

[greg_g]

If your pump has ever dead headed I would say there is a 100% chance the seals in the hydraulic pump blew.

Dwayne - as I mentioned before, the TS254C loader and rear lift are supplied by an external PTO pump. It's it plain sight behind the tractor. If we were looking at a seal problem, I believe Jeff would have mentioned hydraulic fluid all over the back end of his tractor by now.

My wife once owned an Austin Metro with an automatic transmission that operated on 10W30 supplied by the engine oil pan. Never once crossed my mind however, to compare it to a Chinese tractor.

//greg//

 

[DwayneB]

I believe Jeff would have mentioned hydraulic fluid all over the back end of his tractor by now.
/

Mine didn't, some fluid was bypassing the seal into the tranny and the rest was bypassing an internal seal that was blown to pieces.

I'll bet ya it ends up being the pump, lol.

 

[greg_g]

Mine didn't, some fluid was bypassing the seal into the tranny and the rest was bypassing an internal seal that was blown to pieces. I'll bet ya it ends up being the pump, lol.

Your money. But it's a fools bet until we learn what's happening with the rear lift. For the record, there's is no direct passage between the PTO pump and " the tranny ". To be fair, you probably meant rear differential - which would be through PTO oil seal #14 - not one of the actual pump seals (#1, 19, 20). They'd more likely pee hydraulic fluid outside the tractor.

//greg//

 

[DwayneB]

To be fair, you probably meant rear differential .

Yes you are right, it was the differential I was just calling the whole mess the tranny.

I guess I am a fool then cause I'd take the bet.