Hydraulic pump weak

[SPYDERLK]

If the pump is dead heading at startup you are going to have a hard time starting the tractor with the added load.

If the pump is deadheading you will blow the new pump, or a hose, if the engine starts. Expensive and/or dangerous experiment. Pressure must have a relief point. Get a hyd mechanic to check it out. You may have an extremely restricted/plugged line caused by an internal failure of a hose liner. If this hose is before the system relief valve it would have either blown the pump [one mode of which could cause the pump to bypass internally as would account for your heat in the existing pump], or blown the hose. Obviously the hose didnt blow.
larry

 

[lakespirit]

If all this is true, why does it work 99% of the time, even now?

 

[SPYDERLK]

If all this is true, why does it work 99% of the time, even now?

You said it was slow and weak. Define "working".
larry

 

[lakespirit]

When I first fire it up and it's cool, pretty good lift speed, nut still not tremendous lifting strength. Warmer it gets, the sloer and weaker she gets.

 

[lakespirit]

 

[greg_g]

Upgrade your pump to the recommended CB314. They don't cost nearly as much as the time you've already spent procrastinating. Assuming you've actually verified no other flow restrictions, $150 and a half hour's work - and you're done.

//greg//

 

[SPYDERLK]

When I first fire it up and it's cool, pretty good lift speed, nut still not tremendous lifting strength. Warmer it gets, the sloer and weaker she gets.

So, putting it together - thicker fluid alleviates the symptom - thicker fluid does not leak thru a bad seal or an off seat relief valve as easily. This gives you more pressure to work with until the fluid thins with heat. These things fit together nicely. Its possible that your pump just failed internally in some way that causes it to bypass the pressurized fluid back to the suction side. The thing is that you want to make sure to find and eliminate the root cause [which may be elsewhere in the hydraulics] so that it wont happen again.
larry

 

[greg_g]

Its possible that your pump just failed internally

Is it possible that you missed the part where Chip said the CB306 is simply undersized for a loader-equipped TS254C ? He's one of the guys that sells these TaiShans - and puts loaders on them - for a living

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Wow... I don't feel so bad on my ld fords now... the hundred series only has a 4gpm internal pump.. makes for a slow ( but usable ) laoder. I didn't realize anybody was building low gpm pumps still for tractors... glad to hear everything is not in overkill mode.

soundguy

The 306 pump is the basic pump used on tractors without front loaders. it is around 3gpm and will be slow under the best of conditions. We stock a 314 replacement that will speed things up, more than doubling the flow rate. This of course does not take into account any potential restriction in the system (often caused by mismatched quick connect fittings, etc).

 

[greg_g]

I didn't realize anybody was building low gpm pumps still for tractors...

Chip's really close on his estimate. The "6" in CB306 represents the "6ml per rotation", with max output at 2000 rpm. That's 12 liters/min or <3.2 gpm. That puts the CB310 around 5.3 gpm and the CB314 at ~7.4 gpm.

Once flow restrictions are positively eliminated, a CB314 should be a definite improvement to Jeff's tractor.

//greg//