Hydro top link

[woodchipper]

I have installed a modified double acting cylinder for my Cat.II UTB tractor. It is plumbed to one of my two rear factory remotes. I can make it work from inside the tractor, or from the rear. Great for scraper blade, scarifier, rake, snowblower, etc. A real time and pain saver, over a manual top link.
No check valve, no flow restrictor.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Also, why wouldn't you add another single spool valve to control this, rather than using expensive SCV connections intended for higher flow?

My thinking has been to mount a dedicated valve to the fender or someplace I can reach from the seat and from the ground out back, and connect it off the SCV via a T or maybe out the PB port, and then splice in to the return line accordingly. This way I can hard line the pressure and return, and the only soft lines would be to the link itself.

The pilot operated check valves lock the cylinder unless there is pressure coming to move it. It prevents any drift. The downside is that a float function will not work.

If you permanently plumb it you may want to provide a place to stow it on-board if you need to use something like a post-hole digger that doesn't use the top link. Better yet give the hoses enough reach to use it with a downforce kit on the phd.

 

[tman1020]

Also, why wouldn't you add another single spool valve to control this, rather than using expensive SCV connections intended for higher flow? My thinking has been to mount a dedicated valve to the fender or someplace I can reach from the seat and from the ground out back, and connect it off the SCV via a T or maybe out the PB port, and then splice in to the return line accordingly. This way I can hard line the pressure and return, and the only soft lines would be to the link itself.

I did not purchase a check valve but it would have been to prevent any drift in cylinder. This will be the only hydraulic thing that I am running at this time. I may do what you suggest in the future if I find I need more hydraulics. I have never had a hydraulic top link or anything before so I am excited to get this one I think it will be a nice addition to what I've been doing

 

[xring100]

I did not purchase a check valve but it would have been to prevent any drift in cylinder. This will be the only hydraulic thing that I am running at this time. I may do what you suggest in the future if I find I need more hydraulics. I have never had a hydraulic top link or anything before so I am excited to get this one I think it will be a nice addition to what I've been doing

I wouldn't worry about it. have no check valve and i can operate with my log splitter for several hours and have very little drift less than 1/8" I've never had any problems with drift being a problem on my BH27 7ft brush hog or my gannon box scrapper.

 

[s219]

It takes days to see drift in my top link cylinder. Did not want to install a check since my valve is a double-action with float/detent, and a check will disable float from working.

 

[Jim Timber]

So float would actually be better if you were using a leveler/grader type implement that rides on the surface, right? Rather than floating the lower links and having it act in the vertical plane, you'd set your engagement height with the lowers and let the implement pivot about the bottom pins axis.

 

[s219]

So float would actually be better if you were using a leveler/grader type implement that rides on the surface, right? Rather than floating the lower links and having it act in the vertical plane, you'd set your engagement height with the lowers and let the implement pivot about the bottom pins axis.

I think it's mainly useful for a bush hog or rear mower when operating on uneven terrain. By letting the top link float you can suck up some of the undulations.

When I am grading with a box blade, I tend to drop the 3-pt all the way (essentially float) and then use the top link to dial in the angle of attack I want on the box blade cutting edge; aggressive for digging or feathered for smoothing. I have never seen a reason to float the top link with a box blade, as you'd lose any control over the angle of attack and that is the key factor with a box blade.

 

[Jim Timber]

I was thinking more along the lines of these:

King Kutter 84" Dual Edge Land Grader

 

[s219]

I was thinking more along the lines of these:

King Kutter 84" Dual Edge Land Grader

That would probably do better in full-on float, since it's long and the whole point is smoothing.

 

[tman1020]

Thanks for that I was wondering how much drift to expect