Hydro top link

[countrybumpkin]

I typically recommend a 2 1/2" unit for your size tractor.

Yeah I was looking at a 2" cylinder I have on a grapple and was thinking it may be a bit on the small side. I see you don't use the pilot check valves on yours I'm guessing you've not had any complaints about not having them? Also would you set it up to have cat 1 on the tractor side and cat 2 on hitch side or cat 1 on both or cat 2 ? I want to make sure I can use my draft holes on the tractor, not sure how wide the ball ends are on the ends of the cylinders?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Yeah I was looking at a 2" cylinder I have on a grapple and was thinking it may be a bit on the small side. I see you don't use the pilot check valves on yours I'm guessing you've not had any complaints about not having them? Also would you set it up to have cat 1 on the tractor side and cat 2 on hitch side or cat 1 on both or cat 2 ? I want to make sure I can use my draft holes on the tractor, not sure how wide the ball ends are on the ends of the cylinders?

I have had a few requests for the check valves, but I simply do not provide them. I am a big proponent of the float function and the check valves prevent that.

I can build you a cat 1-2 top link, supply the rod end at 1 3/4" wide and even the bushing for your cat 1 implements. No problem accommodating the unit so that all pin locations can be used.

 

[xring100]

I have had a few requests for the check valves, but I simply do not provide them. I am a big proponent of the float function and the check valves prevent that.

I can build you a cat 1-2 top link, supply the rod end at 1 3/4" wide and even the bushing for your cat 1 implements. No problem accommodating the unit so that all pin locations can be used.

I agree i like the float option if for no other reason than being able to hook up implements or my quick hitch. I have no rear control levers to extend or retract the cylinder. I can throw it in float and with a tug or push i can adjust it.

I have a Tisco toplink

 

[countrybumpkin]

I agree float would be nice but I don't have that option with my remotes. But still no real reason to have or need the check valves so one less thing to have issues with.

 

[puckgrinder85]

I agree float would be nice but I don't have that option with my remotes. But still no real reason to have or need the check valves so one less thing to have issues with.

I've never had any issues. It'll be the same as if you were using the loader. Most people don't complain about that small amount of leak down. Once you have the ability you'll be fine tuning it to your application everytime anyhow.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Ok thanks.

Just sent a quote request to Brian.

 

[bumperm]

When doing hydraulic top and tilt on my B3350, I purchased the cylinders from Surplus Center. Their top link comes equipped with a compact dual pilot operated check valve:

2X11X1.18 CAT I HYD DA TOP LINK CYL

(BTW, I did need to shorten the cylinder end pushing to get it to fit the tractor - angle grinder did the deed nicely.)

The tilt cylinder did not come with a check valve and leaked down (the drift down was through the tractor spool valve which was within Kubota spec). The leak down, especially with a heavy implement like a box blade or mower, was a pain. Adding a single check valve (for extension direction only) corrected this. I have no need for float function on the 3 point so swapping that ability for having an implement *stay* where I want it was an easy decision.

I think Fit Rite Hydraulics is providing a great service, and would have used Bian's stuff if I did not want to do my own work, cutting and welding cylinder ends etc (necessary for fitting the tilt cylinder, but usually not required for fitting the top cylinder in my experience).