Hydrostatic ATV

[aczlan]

But that would probably bring me back to my original problem of having the front-end spring up, when driving off the machine.

Not if the actuator has enough travel to completely unload the spring by pulling the arm up the the stop.

Aaron Z

 

[kdlklm]

Not if the actuator has enough travel to completely unload the spring by pulling the arm up the the stop.

Aaron Z

that's true, now that I think of it. If I could just find some shocks that are small enough, I think that I'm in the money. I have seen ones in the past that are quite small. I will have to get hunting, unless you know of anything.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

that's true, now that I think of it. If I could just find some shocks that are small enough, I think that I'm in the money. I have seen ones in the past that are quite small. I will have to get hunting, unless you know of anything.

Consider motorcycle shocks.

 

[kdlklm]

adding the suspension will require me to come up with a new way to lower the ramp. Because the constant vibration from the suspension would ruin the ramp system. I could use a small actuator, but I was having a hard time finding one's that are weather resistant. Any suggestions.

 

[kdlklm]

Consider motorcycle shocks.

motorcycle suspension is very expensive, most of the shots I looked at are around the $1000 Mark. And I think I'm limited to having a shock that is less than 6 inches long in total length. If there is more compact shocks and a little lower cost they would work really good I think.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

motorcycle suspension is very expensive, most of the shots I looked at are around the $1000 Mark. And I think I'm limited to having a shock that is less than 6 inches long in total length. If there is more compact shocks and a little lower cost they would work really good I think.

I was thinking salvage yard stuff... $25 a pair probably. I don't know if I've seen many under 6 inches, though.

 

[kubotakid USA]

motorcycle suspension is very expensive, most of the shots I looked at are around the $1000 Mark. And I think I'm limited to having a shock that is less than 6 inches long in total length. If there is more compact shocks and a little lower cost they would work really good I think.

Dis rite heer iz sum goud reedin,....:confused2: :laughing: :laughing: :confused2:

 

[mjncad]

$1,000 for motorcycle shocks?! WTF?! How about ATV or go-kart shocks and suspension parts?

What CAD program are you using? Professional curiosity on my part.

 

[kdlklm]

$1,000 for motorcycle shocks?! WTF?! How about ATV or go-kart shocks and suspension parts?

What CAD program are you using? Professional curiosity on my part.

I guess I should finish my statement, because I would get a little heavier shocks than what is used on a ATV, and if you start to look at the performance UTV they're quite expensive. those were also the adjustable shocks, because the variance in loads could be from 200 to 1000 pounds. But that might not be necessary.

I am using Autodesk inventor 2012

 

[mjncad]

I guess I should finish my statement, because I would get a little heavier shocks than what is used on a ATV, and if you start to look at the performance UTV they're quite expensive. those were also the adjustable shocks, because the variance in loads could be from 200 to 1000 pounds. But that might not be necessary.

I am using Autodesk inventor 2012

Thanks for the shock clarification.

I have Inventor 2011 that I'm teaching myself, and I've downloaded the 2012 update. I just need a day to install all the extra junk Autodesk so generously(?) gave me as part of my subscription.

 

[kdlklm]

Thanks for the shock clarification.

I have Inventor 2011 that I'm teaching myself, and I've downloaded the 2012 update. I just need a day to install all the extra junk Autodesk so generously(?) gave me as part of my subscription.

Autodesk inventor 2012 is a nice program. There's not a lot of obvious differences with the new version, but I found it runs a lot smoother on Windows 7. Are you working on any kind of projects with it.

 

[kdlklm]

what do you think would be the best way to attach the motor mount assembly to the shaft that goes through the frame. I had thought about making it similar to an axle assembly. But I'm quite limited in space, because there is less than 2 inches of space between the wheel and the motor mount. there is going to be quite a bit of strain on that joint, and if I put a suspension system in, it will see a lot of action. I think a bushing would wear out very fast. So putting in some kind of bearing system is what I'm looking at. Any suggestions.

 

[aczlan]

I see 2 ways to do this:
1. Have someone machine in places to install a pair of bearing races (like on a trailer hub) and use tapered roller bearings. Then machine the stub that mounts on the box to match (essentially a skinnier version of a trailer hub/axle stub)

2. Mount a shaft into the end of the pivoting arm (flanged shaft?) and put a pair of sealed pillow block bearings on each side under the box.

Aaron Z

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Use bushings and put them on a regular PM schedule to replace. Bushings are cheap. If you're not making a full revolution, bearings don't make sense.

 

[mjncad]

Autodesk inventor 2012 is a nice program. There's not a lot of obvious differences with the new version, but I found it runs a lot smoother on Windows 7. Are you working on any kind of projects with it.

Nothing specific project wise yet; but I have some things in mind. I'm still slogging through the tutorials.

I'm using 32-bit XP, and my biggest gripe is display hiccups for lack of a better term that I believe are caused by my video card. I'm trying to decide whether to get an ATI card for the current PC I bought before Win 7 arrived, or get a new PC. I got XP as Vista is a mutt with fleas. From what little I have to maintain on my technophobic wife's Win 7 laptop, I do like Win 7.

Now I hear Microsquish is coming out with Win 8.

 

[kdlklm]

I think what I've got here now, should work well. I took to tapered roller bearings on the inside and the outside of the motor mount and then put a 1.25 inch shaft through the frame and then thread the ends, and use a spindle nut to tighten it all down. The motor mount plate is 1 inch thick and each bearing is slightly less than 1/2 inch. So they fit in there quite snugly. I will be using sealed bearings which is not showing in the diagram. Let me know what you think.

 

[kdlklm]

one question that has been brought up, is if I will need some kind of mechanical locking system for the kneeling feature. The hydraulic Rams will more than likely creep down over time while driving around. Do you think I should be that concerned about it. Will there be that much movement.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

one question that has been brought up, is if I will need some kind of mechanical locking system for the kneeling feature. The hydraulic Rams will more than likely creep down over time while driving around. Do you think I should be that concerned about it. Will there be that much movement.

How much do you trust your valves, seals, etc.?

Hydraulics creep. Some more than others. If it were me, I'd put some kind of lock... either an accessory hydraulic valve like they have on scissor lifts, or a mechanical lock.

 

[kdlklm]

How much do you trust your valves, seals, etc.?

Hydraulics creep. Some more than others. If it were me, I'd put some kind of lock... either an accessory hydraulic valve like they have on scissor lifts, or a mechanical lock.

Adding a lock system will make it difficult to add suspension.

 

[kdlklm]

here is the latest concept photo. I just need to come up with a name for it now.