I am into to it now! Jd 14t

[zzvyb6]

Its not spec'd for plastic or sisal, its for whatever twine you use:

page 24: billhook tension 5 - 15 lbs to open billhooks 1/8"

page 25 - 26 70 - 100 lbs to pull twine out of twine holder in twine disks.

driveline safety clutch 375 - 500 ft-lbs (thats 37.5 to 50 lbs at 10' lever length)

page 10 twine tension 5 - 15 lbs to pull out of twine box. This is all per string.

If you decide to bale the snow, you can make some really nice igloos.

While you are at TSC get some cheap box wrenches (6 point) to change the flywheel shear nut/bolt, a box of moly grease tubes to keep on hand. a tarp to cover it. and a linoleum knife to cut and pull out a twine carcass if it misses a tie for some reason. Keep a small wire nippers in the toolbox, too to cut the joint clean where you tie the end of one twine ball to the next one. This keeps the joint from snagging in the mechanism. You should expect to miss one in a hundred maybe if on bumpy ground. 1 in a thousand if everything is going well. If you buy paint, stay clear of the cheap spray cans. The Industrial version of the famous fish oil primer paint is close enough to green to use. I like yellow on the hay pickup so I can see whats entering the auger. If a tree branch, woodchuck, wallet or pet skunk gets picked up, you will be able to see it before crunch time. I even found a big wide wheel from a mower to stick on it on the heavy (plunger) side to make it look less dorky. If you are handy at welding, add a hydraulic tongue swing. That gets you through gates and down the hiway without clogging up traffic.

There ought to be some neighbors around who have some baling machines. Even new ones at dealers. Peek inside and see what upgrades you might see. These are new parts and will be cheaper than 'vintage' parts. Like that adjustable wiper arm. That's NOT an original part.

 

[zzvyb6]

Looks like the wiper arm assembly you showed as being adjustable is from a JD 327 baler. So what. Get knives from JD (Bay Tractor & Turf in Gibsonburg. Replace rivets with M5 x 12 bolt. (Think 12 is the length (mm) ).

The johndeere.com website has a handy parts locator to identify what is what. The 14t is too old to list but many parts come from 327, 328 and even New Holland 275, 276, etc models.

It a "Deering Knotter". Later ones are gear driven. Guts are the same.

 

[BryanM]

I dont know what I did wrong but what ever I did I got the thing out of time. Help!

I dont know what went on but I straightened the tongue out and rotated the flywheel counterclockwise and now my plunger stop hits the plungerhead cant figure out why except I forgot to lowwer 1 of the needle assemblies after taking of the knife( I duno ). So I think no big deal I will just retime it which seems pretty easy per instructions. So I do but cant seemto get it right the plungerhead is eaither to close or way to far, so I fiddle withmoving the the plungerhead around the 17 5/8 spec it gives got it closer now the needle is even with the plungerhead. Why wont It time correctly when at 17 5/8 (feeder knifes). Possible stretched chains since every chains idler is max out giving most amount of tension possible. Maybe a good time to get new chains? which leads me to a couple of questions?

1. Do I need new chains ( do I count the links of the same size chain for correct length)
2. what does it mean needles in home position (manual says needeles below lowwer chute) okay get that but I have that plunger saftey stop that hooks around the back of the needle shaft so should I bottom out against the hook pulling down the saftey stop?
3. when following the manual step 8 In timing unsure which way to turn clutch ring (am I facing the left side or is the the clutch facing left side)? I have been tuning counter clockwise with me facing the clutch while standing over left wheel? and It also says needles in home position (where do they want the needles? As far down below the lowwer chute as possible pushing plungerhead stop?
How in the heck did this get so hard? Its really very easy if you understand the vocab or have done it a time or 2. I still dont know why the saftey stop keep triping when it was all timed before unless I did something when I rolled it over with the right needle assembly in the up position?

 

[RobS]

I gotta say this is a fascinating thread guys! I know nothing of balers but always wondered how they can tie a knot when I have trouble with that myself. One of you experts MUST post a video of the knotter in action for us armchair balers. Thanks for the insights and good luck with your machine Bryan.

 

[zzvyb6]

Don't think you mean "needle" assemblies, suspect you mean "knotter frames".
which you lifted to change the twine cutoff knives. I presume you rotated them back to operational position. The problem you are having is with the needl lift cycle, not the knotter frame mechanism.

The needles are the two long curved spikes which punch up through the bale case to bring the twine up to the knotter. They are on a frame which moves them together. In "home" position, they are fully retracted and this takes a big yank rearward on the frame bar they are attached to, to set them in a locked position. When this happens, the plunger stops will drop and your plunger will be free to move. The needle lift arm (which is missing the shield in you picture) has a home position.

Its not out of time, its out of place (! That would mean you are in the Twilight Zone). While you are at it, the plunger stops have retraction springs on them and their levers can get trapped in hay chaff in the bottom of the bale case. In the field, I've sometimes had to use rubber tiedown straps to pull them off until i got a new spring from ACO hardware.

Pull the needle bar fully backwards until it clunks. The plunger stops will drop out of the bale case and the needle lift mechanism will snap into its home position.

Yes the main drive chain could be stretched. Lets take it one small step at a time by getting the plunger cycle working.

 

[zzvyb6]

Here's the fix for the problem I think you are having. Pull the arm all the way back with a snap.

See Attached.

 

[BryanM]

For some reason this baler will not get into spec when timed as manual has stated. I can go threw manual follow procedure as described for timing the baler and have tried mulitple scenerios for every thing to fall into place.

scenrio 1 time as described in book Plungerhead will be even with needle feeder teeth will be 17 5/8

2 back plunger off for reasonable clearence between plunger head and needle and feeder teeth out of spec 19 1/4"

3 time as described in scenerio 1 but adjust bothclutchring cam ****** timing and advance both ways plungerhead way out almost 6 inches out of time.
4 time scenerio as 1 and try needle travel Nope gained small amount but will have to adjust safety stop!

I am begiing to think I might have to sacrifice the feeder tooth spec and that will set me right at the 1 inch clerance between needle and plungerheadwhich in the manual its best to be closer to 2 1/4".

my thoughts possible problems chains are stretched ( all tensioners are at the tightest adjustments gears have to much play pitman arm may have to much play? I just dont know you would think with the wide tolerence 0f 16 3/4' to 18 1/4' and 1" to 2 1/4" would be easy to hit.


Or last conclusion I am just an idiot! got any ideas

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Bryan, do you have a John deere Dealership near you? If so go talk to them and see if you can rent one of their mechanics that knows balers for a couple hours. A lot of times someone else will see something you are missing but may be staring at you the whole time. It will make you feel stupid at times but you will learn something at that moment and never forget it. I had this problem and called in a few friends (sunday afternoon with hay on the ground) and we finally figured out the problem. It was something I thought of but was told it "Couldn't be that" At the time I was still very new to balers so I listened and after a couple of hours of not getting anywhere I finally checked it and But I learned a lot that day and if I could have had one of the NH mechanics come out I would have gladly paid them as it is like having a private teacher for baler school. If you pay them for two hours keep him there and ask him any other questions you have as he can point things out to you in person and show you how it works instead of Z trying to explain it via still photos (you are doing one heck of a job though Z).

This is just a thought though and I know you have plenty of time before you need to use this baler so I am sure you will get it figured out before then. Best of luck to you.

 

[zzvyb6]

I detect a road trip after Christmas. When you are ready, pm me with phone and address. Its just a 1.5 hour drive away. I'll make up a timing block out of wood to help this out.

No problem. Wish I had a good mini dvd camera (actually I do, just not sure where it is). The idea of posting a slowed down video of the knotting action would probably get some votes on YouTube or FlickR.

Check out your local dealer to see if he will order you "ag-line" parts. Get some new twine cutoff knives and be ready to install them.

 

[BryanM]

hey ZZ that sounds great! Ive got the knives coming in this week, I ended up putting new chains on the baler and it seems close to being intime . I am intime when it comes to plungerhead and needles, but the feeder teeth are about 1/2in to long. I didnt think that was such a big deal though.

Just tell me what supplies you need and what tools you need I'll be more that happy to pay for your time and knowlegde! better yet I'LL P.M you in the next day or two with phone number and such. thanks Bryan