Paul Thornton
Gold Member
Looks like you're gaining on it.
I got a Tractor!
- Thread starter The Chicken
- Start date
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robpm
Silver Member
I don't know if you checked out Tractordata on the IH 3514 but if you did not take a look here TractorData.com International Harvester 3514 industrial tractor information It looks like there were a couple of different engines and several different transmissions on this baby. There are a lot of pictures on the web of it and a lot of them show it with a BH. If you hadn't looked at Tractor Data I thought that that might help you some in figuring out the transmission on the one that you have.
Rob
Rob
OP
The Chicken
Member
Yes, I have looked at the tractor data site-Thanks! It seems to only add to the mystery, as it shows 3 different transmissions-and the book I have lists only 2. Could have to do with an eariler revision of the tractor. Mine has a seemingly low serial number of 1390, and the operators manual says for 1695 and up-so that probably isn't helping.
My biggest problems now are no brakes-I am cleaning off the crud to see if I can get the disc brake covers off and perhaps see how they work and what parts I need. I'm hoping it just needs new discs.
Of perhaps a bigger concern is the 3-point lift will not lift or lower. It seems to have no hydraulic power at all. The previous owner had staTED THAT THEY WERE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH IT WHEN IT WAS PARKED. hE SAID IT WOULD SUDDENLY JUST drop at random. I am hoping that the filters are just plugged or something-I really don't want to tear into the lift cover-it looks complex and expensive.
We are cleaning all the crud off now that we have removed the operator station-so perhaps we will be able to see what is going on a little better then.
In the meantime, if anybody has any experience with the brakes or 3-point ion these, I'd really love to hear some input on the subjects.
Thanks again!
My biggest problems now are no brakes-I am cleaning off the crud to see if I can get the disc brake covers off and perhaps see how they work and what parts I need. I'm hoping it just needs new discs.
Of perhaps a bigger concern is the 3-point lift will not lift or lower. It seems to have no hydraulic power at all. The previous owner had staTED THAT THEY WERE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH IT WHEN IT WAS PARKED. hE SAID IT WOULD SUDDENLY JUST drop at random. I am hoping that the filters are just plugged or something-I really don't want to tear into the lift cover-it looks complex and expensive.
We are cleaning all the crud off now that we have removed the operator station-so perhaps we will be able to see what is going on a little better then.
In the meantime, if anybody has any experience with the brakes or 3-point ion these, I'd really love to hear some input on the subjects.
Thanks again!
OP
The Chicken
Member
Well, it's been awhile, and I thought I'd update this, in case anybody is still looking at it.
Let's see, hydraulic fluid. Dear God. this was the worst fluid ever. Seemed like it had a ton of water and dirt in it. Can't really figure out how either got in there, but I do know the filters were not changed anytime recently. The suction filter down on the transmission had imploded and been sucked into pieces it was so plugged up.
These are pics of the suction filter. If you look real close in the second one, you can see how it imploded-basically at that point there was no filter.
This is what the fluid looked like in the bucket. Yuck!
Let's see, hydraulic fluid. Dear God. this was the worst fluid ever. Seemed like it had a ton of water and dirt in it. Can't really figure out how either got in there, but I do know the filters were not changed anytime recently. The suction filter down on the transmission had imploded and been sucked into pieces it was so plugged up.
These are pics of the suction filter. If you look real close in the second one, you can see how it imploded-basically at that point there was no filter.
This is what the fluid looked like in the bucket. Yuck!
OP
The Chicken
Member
So I changed the filters, drained the fluid, tried to flush the transmission as best as I could with some diesel and fresh fluid, then filled it back up.
In the meantime, I had torn a LOT of the rest of the tractor apart. I got the super leaky ram apart, found someone who could get the rebuild kit for it, and about died at the price. 130 bucks per ram for o-rings and rod seals and wipers. Uhhh-no. So I measured everything up and ordered up some o-rings, wipers, and seals for a LOT, LOT less. Should work fine.
Here's the shaft from one of the bucket cylinders with the piston and packing.
As of right now, I have the one all rebuilt and re-installed on the tractor and am just waiting to fire it back up to test that it works.
I had to make my own pin wrench, here it is-
I'm not quite happy with it though-I need to make a hinged one that can wrap further around the locking collar and thus be more stable and apply more torque with out flopping over to the side.
Brakes-Among other things, I found the right book for this tractor, which has helped a TON. Turns out the brakes are double discs which ride on the bull gear shafts and are separated by a friction disc that puts pressure on the discs and outer friction discs vis some little ball bearings. Ordered up some new discs from Steiner, and the thing seems to have brakes now-we'll see when I get to move it again. I also had to replace the shaft seals and o-rings in the seal covers.
At this point I sorta jumped the gun and ordered new tires, thinking I'd have it all done shortly. That was not to be, but it was too late once I had the rims and tires broken down. The old tires were beyond shot. The rims were trashed. Beads all bent, dented, valve stem holes all rusted out-they were used and abused.
The first thing I learned here is those wheel weights are friggin' HEAVY! Thank God I had a forklift!
In the meantime, I had torn a LOT of the rest of the tractor apart. I got the super leaky ram apart, found someone who could get the rebuild kit for it, and about died at the price. 130 bucks per ram for o-rings and rod seals and wipers. Uhhh-no. So I measured everything up and ordered up some o-rings, wipers, and seals for a LOT, LOT less. Should work fine.
Here's the shaft from one of the bucket cylinders with the piston and packing.
As of right now, I have the one all rebuilt and re-installed on the tractor and am just waiting to fire it back up to test that it works.
I had to make my own pin wrench, here it is-
I'm not quite happy with it though-I need to make a hinged one that can wrap further around the locking collar and thus be more stable and apply more torque with out flopping over to the side.
Brakes-Among other things, I found the right book for this tractor, which has helped a TON. Turns out the brakes are double discs which ride on the bull gear shafts and are separated by a friction disc that puts pressure on the discs and outer friction discs vis some little ball bearings. Ordered up some new discs from Steiner, and the thing seems to have brakes now-we'll see when I get to move it again. I also had to replace the shaft seals and o-rings in the seal covers.
At this point I sorta jumped the gun and ordered new tires, thinking I'd have it all done shortly. That was not to be, but it was too late once I had the rims and tires broken down. The old tires were beyond shot. The rims were trashed. Beads all bent, dented, valve stem holes all rusted out-they were used and abused.
The first thing I learned here is those wheel weights are friggin' HEAVY! Thank God I had a forklift!
OP
The Chicken
Member
Here is what the poor rims looked like-
A few hours with a hammer, dolly, and a torch for the bigger dents had the rims looking round again, the bead surfaces acceptable, and looking a bit better overall.
As you can see, the valve stem holes were wasted. Well, I couldn't have THAT! I also wanted to run tubeless tires so that if I got a flat, a simple plug kit would save the day-instaed of an expensive trip to the tire store-which is 50 miles away from where this tractor will eventually reside. Seeing as the rims were welded type, this was a good idea-but first to fix those holes.
Here's what I did-
I had my CNC plasma cutter make me a few square parts with round holes in the middle out of .120 cold roll sheet. Then I carbide reamed the holes to .625". Then I used a hand held plasma cutter to cut out a square with the old worn out hole. A little cleaning up of the cut-out, and then I just welded in the patch piece. Welded it on both sides, the ground down the out side. Good as new!
But I didn't stop there-
I welded on a short piece of 1 1/2" pipe, with a matching female cap (removed in this photo) to protect the valve stem, and act as a secondary seal should the valve stem leak. I really like how it came out.
And here is one with a spankin new tire on it. I sure love the smell of new tires!! These are the biggest shoes I have ever bought!
In case you can't tell, I had the rims powdercoated before the new rubber went on them. This actually created a problem-the new tires and rims look SOOOOO nice, and the rest of the tractor looks sooo hammered. HHMMMMMMM...
A few hours with a hammer, dolly, and a torch for the bigger dents had the rims looking round again, the bead surfaces acceptable, and looking a bit better overall.
As you can see, the valve stem holes were wasted. Well, I couldn't have THAT! I also wanted to run tubeless tires so that if I got a flat, a simple plug kit would save the day-instaed of an expensive trip to the tire store-which is 50 miles away from where this tractor will eventually reside. Seeing as the rims were welded type, this was a good idea-but first to fix those holes.
Here's what I did-
I had my CNC plasma cutter make me a few square parts with round holes in the middle out of .120 cold roll sheet. Then I carbide reamed the holes to .625". Then I used a hand held plasma cutter to cut out a square with the old worn out hole. A little cleaning up of the cut-out, and then I just welded in the patch piece. Welded it on both sides, the ground down the out side. Good as new!
But I didn't stop there-
I welded on a short piece of 1 1/2" pipe, with a matching female cap (removed in this photo) to protect the valve stem, and act as a secondary seal should the valve stem leak. I really like how it came out.
And here is one with a spankin new tire on it. I sure love the smell of new tires!! These are the biggest shoes I have ever bought!
In case you can't tell, I had the rims powdercoated before the new rubber went on them. This actually created a problem-the new tires and rims look SOOOOO nice, and the rest of the tractor looks sooo hammered. HHMMMMMMM...
OP
The Chicken
Member
Now, next is where the whole show almost came to a grinding halt. The 3-point lift. Wow. what a mess.
Thankfully, as I had mentioned, I had finally acquired the proper manual for the tractor, which showed me how to service the lift and all the hydraulic, and mechanical gadgetry that goes with it. Holy crap! There is a bunch of FM that enables that thing to function! If I hadn't been so far into this thing at this point, I might have actually scrapped the project-but the huge investment of new tires had me kind of married to it at this point, so it was do or die.
This broken hydraulic switch (note the nasty fluid/water/dirt) was just the first of the issues hiding under that cover.
I will spare you the details, but once I had this lift cylinder/servo set out of the tractor, it took another 10 HOURS(!!!!) just to get it disassembled!!! Long story short-the contaminated fluid had conspired to seize two little (app. 1/2" bore) sleeve servo valves into their respective bores. Ever try to remove something that sensitive and small from a blind bore? YIKES!! I finally got a tap to thread into the most difficult one, which gave me purchase on it enough to free it up in the bore.
Once the night mare of getting it apart was over, it only took a few hours to thoroughly clean it and reassemble it with all new o-rings.
But when I went to put the rebuilt lift assembly back into the hitch cover, I discovered some more damage that had to be dealt with. So the lift arms and rock shaft had to come out to straighten out some bent parts and replace a few widgets.
This is no fun to work on right here. There is a bunch of stuff you have to work on buried in there that requires a mirror just to see. And there is no room. By the time I got it all back together, my hands were all bruised and cut up from cramming them into this area.
Check out my big shaft!
The good news at this point, is when I got it all back together and fired it up, the 3-point lift seems to work just fine! Which is great, because if it hadn't, I don't know what I'd have done. It remains to be seen it the draft control functions as it should under load-hopefully it does, as adjusting it looks time consuming, difficult, and really hard to do because you have to tear so much stuff apart just to adjust it.
I still have a ton of stuff to do, but at this point I'd say this tractor will live to work again. Stay tuned!
Thankfully, as I had mentioned, I had finally acquired the proper manual for the tractor, which showed me how to service the lift and all the hydraulic, and mechanical gadgetry that goes with it. Holy crap! There is a bunch of FM that enables that thing to function! If I hadn't been so far into this thing at this point, I might have actually scrapped the project-but the huge investment of new tires had me kind of married to it at this point, so it was do or die.
This broken hydraulic switch (note the nasty fluid/water/dirt) was just the first of the issues hiding under that cover.
I will spare you the details, but once I had this lift cylinder/servo set out of the tractor, it took another 10 HOURS(!!!!) just to get it disassembled!!! Long story short-the contaminated fluid had conspired to seize two little (app. 1/2" bore) sleeve servo valves into their respective bores. Ever try to remove something that sensitive and small from a blind bore? YIKES!! I finally got a tap to thread into the most difficult one, which gave me purchase on it enough to free it up in the bore.
Once the night mare of getting it apart was over, it only took a few hours to thoroughly clean it and reassemble it with all new o-rings.
But when I went to put the rebuilt lift assembly back into the hitch cover, I discovered some more damage that had to be dealt with. So the lift arms and rock shaft had to come out to straighten out some bent parts and replace a few widgets.
This is no fun to work on right here. There is a bunch of stuff you have to work on buried in there that requires a mirror just to see. And there is no room. By the time I got it all back together, my hands were all bruised and cut up from cramming them into this area.
Check out my big shaft!
The good news at this point, is when I got it all back together and fired it up, the 3-point lift seems to work just fine! Which is great, because if it hadn't, I don't know what I'd have done. It remains to be seen it the draft control functions as it should under load-hopefully it does, as adjusting it looks time consuming, difficult, and really hard to do because you have to tear so much stuff apart just to adjust it.
I still have a ton of stuff to do, but at this point I'd say this tractor will live to work again. Stay tuned!
Citydude
Elite Member
Great work! Yes, please keep us updated. This is fun!
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Ronaldjaye
Member
Hey chicken, I just want to say I have enjoyed this journey, and I admire you guys who have the guts and talent to take care of your equipment the way you do. Poor me, every time something goes wrong with my stuff I have to take it to the Deere Hospital. Thanks a ton for sharing your experience with us....
DABSGT
Veteran Member
Everything seems to be coming along just fine, nice work. waiting for an its up and running video and some pictures.
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Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
