I guess my engine block heater is bad?

[cfb]

oh, thank you. End to end on both sides went almost to zero.
On the element, I put the probes on each outside end (held firm the points of the probe to the element ends) at the highest olms reading, 2000k, it started at 1500 and kept going up until over 19xx and then went to one, which I read that that means it is above the meter range setting - so seems, therefore, that this is the indicator I was looking for to confirm the element is burned out, right? thank you.

 

[Egon]

If you have continuity you should get an ohm reading. If there is no continuity the ohm reading should be zero.

 

[Quebecguy]

If there is no continuity the ohm reading should be zero.

Egon,
If there is no continuity the reading should be infinity, not zero.

 

[Xfaxman]

cfb, this might help: How to Use a Multimeter

 

[CobyRupert]

Hold the two probes apart.
Read meter, this is the value for an open circuit. ( A high resistance ohm value, approaching infinity)

Hold probes together, this is the maximum reading for continuity. (A low ohm resistance value near zero)

 

[jaxs]

You want the meter set at 200 ohms NOT 200K ohms. Testing cord end to end should be near 0 or same as when probes are held togeather. If your meter has a wheel,use it to set to 0 while probes held togeather.
Between flat prongs should be 10 ohms to 30 ohms ( depending on wattage of heater).

 

[Egon]

Egon,
If there is no continuity the reading should be infinity, not zero.

Blame it on encroaching old age!

 

[Egon]

Blame it on encroaching old age!

Not being familiar with a meter or many of of the symbols I just had to check.

Meter has no continuity function that I could find. It does have an ohm function which is what I've been using. With continuity there is a reading. No continuity no reading.

 

[cfb]

Success! Always a great feeling to do something never done before. After draining the radiator, and I opened the block drain but hardly anything came out there, I then started to unscrew the element. Not wanting to go too loose in fear of leaving something in the block, when felt loose, the element was easily removed. I lubed the rubber gasket with anti-freeze like the instructions said and it pushed in real nice. then screwed till about as tight as it was to loosen as I did not have a torque screwdriver. I had to hold the plug part of the element as the unit wanted to rotate as I screwed tighter. The hardest part was plugging in the plug itself, very tight fit which is good. Filled the radiator, started the tractor and no leaks. Turned it off, plugged into the extension cord and the block now heats. Very happy to have saved the service call and time if I loaded it up to take to the Ford dealer. Thanks again everybody.

 

[FredH]

So You replaced with heater with new one ? Or just reinstalled old one ? I have had cords go bad on my semi's and like others stated , can buy new cords or elements or both .

Fred H.