snymat68
Platinum Member
So it's lesser of two evils then?
I have a really off the wall question about trenching an underground wire
- Thread starter lzicc
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So it's lesser of two evils then?
MechE1
Silver Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2013
- Messages
- 196
- Location
- Urbana, Il
- Tractor
- Ingersoll 448 with 42" tiller and 60" deck. John Deere 3046R, cab, T&T, H165 loader with 4and1, 60D Autoconnect, 72" boxblade, 59" snowblower
I plowed in about 900 feet of dog fence wire about the same depth. Nice black Illinois soil here tho. I fabricated a cable plow. Crossbar/square tube for the hitch. Used a 3/8 x 1 1/2 bar for the plow. Welded together. Welded a small tube with nice radius on the back of the bar. Flared the inlet. Sharpened the front of the bar for the bit that was going in the ground. Add a lot of weight. Went super slow (hydraulic drive transaxle/case Ingersoll 448 with flow control). Wire direct buried right in the ground. Ideally, the tube on a hinge would have been better. One use item for me. Still have it minus the tube. Very minimal disruption to the ground. Most places you couldn't even see it. Yes vibrating is best but for shallow and decent (moist) soil it's not required. I bet I did that in about an hour.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
You can't stop it. You can only help direct it. Better to equalize into your grounding system than for it to "look" for equalization thru your "stuff". We all know that ends. The surge suppression devices I recommended for each end of your equipment to protect from rising voltage gradients coming from your metallic conductor. can help clamp transients, If it is in the range that it can clamp.
jwstewar
Elite Member
Instead of bury Cat6, why not just use a wireless bridge? I have a wireless bridge run to our barn at about 400'. I'm running 10 cameras on it without issue. Still have enough bandwidth when we are in the barn to be able to stream music or videos to our phones. Simpler/faster/cheaper than running the wire. 10 minutes I can set a bridge up and have internet service in the out building.
countrybumpkin
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2005
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- 3,237
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- Kioti, kubota
What bridge are you using, I’ve been looking at doing something like this?
wheelbuilder
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2018
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- 494
- Location
- Upstate, NY
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- 1988 Bolens/Iseki 1502, also Sears GT5000
I've put in a couple invisible dog fences with my single bottom plow. I cut the furrow, lay in the wire and roll the sod back. It's pretty darn neat and clean.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Roadworthy
Elite Member
You never did mention why you wanted to bury a wire or what it was supposed to carry. If it is any kind of power line the National Electrical Code gives specifications for required depth and wire types which are acceptable. Personally I would bury conduit - bigger than I thought I needed - to allow future replacement as required and to act as a gopher deterrent.
Racenut
Gold Member
Check out Ubiquity stuff. For work, I have 20 or so bridge links at various places. They have a solution for just about every possible need, they have been easy to setup and reliable.
Nanobeam AC have been good general purpose bridges and they are cheap. Less than $200 for both sides. https://www.amazon.com/NanoBeam-NBE...anobeam+AC-16&qid=1569371448&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Diggin It
Super Star Member
Yes he did. Cat 6, computer network cable.
A wireless bridge means the need for AC at the distant end. I may have missed whether or not that's available.
I used a Sub-Soiler to cut a slot about 6-8" deep to lay 3/4" conduit for the same kind of network cable. Worked fine. A little tamping and raking, a bit of seed and you can't tell where it was. No matter what you do, it will be a few weeks for the grass to fill in, so there's no reason to be too picky about it. There is virtually no way to slit or dig a lawn that won't be evident for some number of days afterwards.
