I "need" a welder..?
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_RaT_
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
At least consider the 120/240V MIG. You get disappointed very quickly with a small current MIG welding heavier material, even with multiple passes. The weld just sits on top. On the otherhand, welding 1/8" steel and smaller is a real snap with these small MIGs. As was mentioned, using Flux Core (with your miniMIG) can really help the penetration, but the weld is not pretty and there is some time involved switching between the two processes. You will need bare bones a 120/20amp circuit for your MIG. I have a 120V/30amp for my Millermatic MiniMIG and trip that breaker.
At least consider the 120/240V MIG. You get disappointed very quickly with a small current MIG welding heavier material, even with multiple passes. The weld just sits on top. On the otherhand, welding 1/8" steel and smaller is a real snap with these small MIGs. As was mentioned, using Flux Core (with your miniMIG) can really help the penetration, but the weld is not pretty and there is some time involved switching between the two processes. You will need bare bones a 120/20amp circuit for your MIG. I have a 120V/30amp for my Millermatic MiniMIG and trip that breaker.
mschuck
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
I've been watching these welding posts too, I even created my own thread a while back and got a lot of good advice. Of course I still haven't gotten an electric welder yet, but I have been playing with my O/A setup and having fun.
I've been watching Craigs List for welders for quite a while and I've seen a large range of welders come up in my area for pretty good prices. I'd bet you could get whatever your looking for off of CL for under $300.
I've been watching these welding posts too, I even created my own thread a while back and got a lot of good advice. Of course I still haven't gotten an electric welder yet, but I have been playing with my O/A setup and having fun.
I've been watching Craigs List for welders for quite a while and I've seen a large range of welders come up in my area for pretty good prices. I'd bet you could get whatever your looking for off of CL for under $300.
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but now I'm wondering if even with the extra time and effort if the heavier projects can get done )</font>
IMHO.. fabrication involving 3/8 and a 110v welder will turn into a long turn painfull relationship.
The very limited 3/8 welding I've done with my 110v welder took 3x to 4x the weld time, rod and prep work.. vs just using a 220v welder ( mig or stick ).
Soundguy
Soundguy
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but now I'm wondering if even with the extra time and effort if the heavier projects can get done )</font>
IMHO.. fabrication involving 3/8 and a 110v welder will turn into a long turn painfull relationship.
The very limited 3/8 welding I've done with my 110v welder took 3x to 4x the weld time, rod and prep work.. vs just using a 220v welder ( mig or stick ).
Soundguy
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
Speaking of Craigslist, in April I sold my Millermatic 175 MIG with Miller cart and 1/2 full 80cfm C25 gas bottle and some expendibles for $700 on CL. The buyer got a really great deal. If you watch CL long enough the deals will be there.
Speaking of Craigslist, in April I sold my Millermatic 175 MIG with Miller cart and 1/2 full 80cfm C25 gas bottle and some expendibles for $700 on CL. The buyer got a really great deal. If you watch CL long enough the deals will be there.
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
Talking about welders is probably a subject that should be avoided like politics and religion. But . . .
Last summer we moved about five miles. Suddenly, I had no neighbors with welders -- at least none who would admit to owning one.
I hadn't owned a welder in over 30 years. I looked long and hard at what to get. Oxy-acetylene? Lincoln 225 stick? MIG/Flux Core?
I wanted something I could easily move without a forklift or a hernia. Something I could take to the work, not vice versa. I looked around at most of what had been welded and fabricated in the past couple of years. 99% was 1/4-inch or less. On some heavier pieces, things were brazed or just tack welded anyway.
It came down to MIG or Oxy.
I settled on a little 115 VAC Lincoln 135. It includes the gas option, but so far I've just used the flux core.
Great machine, and I've fixed and fabricated everything I've needed so far. First day I had it, I had to fabricate a new eyebolt for a 3-point hitch sway chain that I destroyed. Besides the custom eye bolt I fabricated (a 3/4-inch nut welded to the head of a 3/4-inch bolt), I had to reweld the piece of 3/8-inch chain that went through the eye of the fabricated bolt. I sold that tractor last week, but I sure did a lot of work with it since that repair and a number of other modifications/repairs.
Just last night, I used a rusty and cruddy old lawnmower blade and a couple of 2-inch pieces of rusty 1/2-inch rebar to make a drawbar lock. Except for the cuts with my chop saw, nothing else was cleaned or prepped on any of the pieces. I used a grinder to round some of the welded edges, and the penetration was good. No prep, and maybe two minutes of welding ?? The flux core is real forgiving of rust and paint. It just leaves a little spatter - but no worse than a stick.
The little welder even runs well off my portable generator.
If I can't do it with this little welder, then I probably should have somebody else do it who really knows how to weld.
Talking about welders is probably a subject that should be avoided like politics and religion. But . . .
Last summer we moved about five miles. Suddenly, I had no neighbors with welders -- at least none who would admit to owning one.
I hadn't owned a welder in over 30 years. I looked long and hard at what to get. Oxy-acetylene? Lincoln 225 stick? MIG/Flux Core?
I wanted something I could easily move without a forklift or a hernia. Something I could take to the work, not vice versa. I looked around at most of what had been welded and fabricated in the past couple of years. 99% was 1/4-inch or less. On some heavier pieces, things were brazed or just tack welded anyway.
It came down to MIG or Oxy.
I settled on a little 115 VAC Lincoln 135. It includes the gas option, but so far I've just used the flux core.
Great machine, and I've fixed and fabricated everything I've needed so far. First day I had it, I had to fabricate a new eyebolt for a 3-point hitch sway chain that I destroyed. Besides the custom eye bolt I fabricated (a 3/4-inch nut welded to the head of a 3/4-inch bolt), I had to reweld the piece of 3/8-inch chain that went through the eye of the fabricated bolt. I sold that tractor last week, but I sure did a lot of work with it since that repair and a number of other modifications/repairs.
Just last night, I used a rusty and cruddy old lawnmower blade and a couple of 2-inch pieces of rusty 1/2-inch rebar to make a drawbar lock. Except for the cuts with my chop saw, nothing else was cleaned or prepped on any of the pieces. I used a grinder to round some of the welded edges, and the penetration was good. No prep, and maybe two minutes of welding ?? The flux core is real forgiving of rust and paint. It just leaves a little spatter - but no worse than a stick.
The little welder even runs well off my portable generator.
If I can't do it with this little welder, then I probably should have somebody else do it who really knows how to weld.
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I can't do it with this little welder, then I probably should have somebody else do it who really knows how to weld. )</font>
This is a good point for someone like me- my goal is to be able to do things I just can't do (for instance I just modified a metal gate with wood and bolts, a welder would have made this easier). But for structural stuff I wouldn't trust my skills- at least not yet.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If I can't do it with this little welder, then I probably should have somebody else do it who really knows how to weld. )</font>
This is a good point for someone like me- my goal is to be able to do things I just can't do (for instance I just modified a metal gate with wood and bolts, a welder would have made this easier). But for structural stuff I wouldn't trust my skills- at least not yet.
mbrule
Gold Member
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
Hi All,
Just my .02, I have a 110 V mig (Solar, 150A), It will weld 1/4" steel all day with no problem. 3/8" is more of a chore but doable. It is however a quality unit, it was around $1200.00 7 or 8 years ago. My point is a quaity unit will serve better than a lesser quality. My advise .... buy the best name brand that you can afford / justify, and really do yourself a favor and give the business to a reputable welding supplier, who will be there for advise, may cost a bit more, but the relationship can be very beneficial.
Matt
Hi All,
Just my .02, I have a 110 V mig (Solar, 150A), It will weld 1/4" steel all day with no problem. 3/8" is more of a chore but doable. It is however a quality unit, it was around $1200.00 7 or 8 years ago. My point is a quaity unit will serve better than a lesser quality. My advise .... buy the best name brand that you can afford / justify, and really do yourself a favor and give the business to a reputable welding supplier, who will be there for advise, may cost a bit more, but the relationship can be very beneficial.
Matt
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( At least consider the 120/240V MIG. You get disappointed very quickly with a small current MIG welding heavier material, even with multiple passes. The weld just sits on top. On the otherhand, welding 1/8" steel and smaller is a real snap with these small MIGs. As was mentioned, using Flux Core (with your miniMIG) can really help the penetration, but the weld is not pretty and there is some time involved switching between the two processes. You will need bare bones a 120/20amp circuit for your MIG. I have a 120V/30amp for my Millermatic MiniMIG and trip that breaker. )</font>
Oh..well going to 220 volts is no problem.. Its just that MANY of the 220 volt MIG welders I see..are JUMBO boogers that exceed my needs by about 100000% I can stick..say a 50 amp-220 breaker in the box downstairs..and run the wiring thru the basement and out to the garage to the receptical...plug in there and do my "work"...lol...in the driveway. So going to 220 V is no biggie.
1) I want something thats easy to learn to use ( and makes good LOOKING along with "good" welds)
2) I DONT WANT something thats gonna costs me $1000-1500
3) 1/4 inch thickness is plenty...if I do a "T" welded item..I'll just prep both sides. Even with a plain butt weld Id prep it.
4) Im told.?..that if I cant learn to use a wire fed MIG setup ( and also using flux core wire with no gas)...then I dont have the ability to even GLUE 2 items together...???
5) Not sure how much "juice" a smaller 220 rig pulls ( amperage-wise)..but I just did pull a 220-30 amp breaker out of the box downstairs...I converted that circuit back to 120 V
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( At least consider the 120/240V MIG. You get disappointed very quickly with a small current MIG welding heavier material, even with multiple passes. The weld just sits on top. On the otherhand, welding 1/8" steel and smaller is a real snap with these small MIGs. As was mentioned, using Flux Core (with your miniMIG) can really help the penetration, but the weld is not pretty and there is some time involved switching between the two processes. You will need bare bones a 120/20amp circuit for your MIG. I have a 120V/30amp for my Millermatic MiniMIG and trip that breaker. )</font>
Oh..well going to 220 volts is no problem.. Its just that MANY of the 220 volt MIG welders I see..are JUMBO boogers that exceed my needs by about 100000% I can stick..say a 50 amp-220 breaker in the box downstairs..and run the wiring thru the basement and out to the garage to the receptical...plug in there and do my "work"...lol...in the driveway. So going to 220 V is no biggie.
1) I want something thats easy to learn to use ( and makes good LOOKING along with "good" welds)
2) I DONT WANT something thats gonna costs me $1000-1500
3) 1/4 inch thickness is plenty...if I do a "T" welded item..I'll just prep both sides. Even with a plain butt weld Id prep it.
4) Im told.?..that if I cant learn to use a wire fed MIG setup ( and also using flux core wire with no gas)...then I dont have the ability to even GLUE 2 items together...???
5) Not sure how much "juice" a smaller 220 rig pulls ( amperage-wise)..but I just did pull a 220-30 amp breaker out of the box downstairs...I converted that circuit back to 120 V
CTyler
Veteran Member
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
My Millermatic 251 runs off a 50amp breaker and will do 1/2 no problem.
For under $800 you can get a Hobart 180 that is 220v and will do 5/16 in a single pass. Thats just one example. Not positive but am assuming it would require a 30 amp/220 breaker.
My Millermatic 251 runs off a 50amp breaker and will do 1/2 no problem.
For under $800 you can get a Hobart 180 that is 220v and will do 5/16 in a single pass. Thats just one example. Not positive but am assuming it would require a 30 amp/220 breaker.
CTyler
Veteran Member
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4) Im told.?..that if I cant learn to use a wire fed MIG setup ( and also using flux core wire with no gas)...then I dont have the ability to even GLUE 2 items together...???
)</font>
I think that would be true with any welder stick or mig. Although it may be that its easier to lay wire(no penetration) with a mig. Its been 20 years since touching a stick welder.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 4) Im told.?..that if I cant learn to use a wire fed MIG setup ( and also using flux core wire with no gas)...then I dont have the ability to even GLUE 2 items together...???
)</font>
I think that would be true with any welder stick or mig. Although it may be that its easier to lay wire(no penetration) with a mig. Its been 20 years since touching a stick welder.
Highbeam
Super Member
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
An arc welder like a buzz box welds at about 25 volts so at the 200 amp setting (that's hot, you'll mostly use about 100 amps) the welder is pulling 5000 watts. Heck, say 6600 watts for grins and assuming some inefficiency. 6600 watts divided by 220 volts is only 30 amps of power through the circuit. Most welders come equipped with a standard 50 amp style plug.
I power my ac225 buzzbox with a coleman 6850 peak/5500 continuous coleman generator for remote welding of some seriously thick stuff.
An arc welder like a buzz box welds at about 25 volts so at the 200 amp setting (that's hot, you'll mostly use about 100 amps) the welder is pulling 5000 watts. Heck, say 6600 watts for grins and assuming some inefficiency. 6600 watts divided by 220 volts is only 30 amps of power through the circuit. Most welders come equipped with a standard 50 amp style plug.
I power my ac225 buzzbox with a coleman 6850 peak/5500 continuous coleman generator for remote welding of some seriously thick stuff.
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
http://store.cyberweld.com/mil175witecc.html
Here's a Millermatic 175 MIG...with the cart..etc..etc. Says it requires 20 AMPS at 230 Volts. Has a range or 30-175 amps....price ant too bad at right at $800 and that includes the shipping..??
Supposidly can do 3/16 stock in a single pass...so if I prep my stuff,,I can easily do 1/4 thick work.
Also..Im under the understanding that MIG gives one the ability to also to SST and Aluminum materials..??
http://store.cyberweld.com/mil175witecc.html
Here's a Millermatic 175 MIG...with the cart..etc..etc. Says it requires 20 AMPS at 230 Volts. Has a range or 30-175 amps....price ant too bad at right at $800 and that includes the shipping..??
Supposidly can do 3/16 stock in a single pass...so if I prep my stuff,,I can easily do 1/4 thick work.
Also..Im under the understanding that MIG gives one the ability to also to SST and Aluminum materials..??
MadReferee
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Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
$800 delivered with cart is a good price from an internet vendor.
When I had my MM175 I regularly welded 1/4" in a single pass and 3/8" with 2 passes with no problems at all. Once I found the right setting on the dials I was golden. I used .030 wire with C25 shielding gas. All of my projects (landscape rake, forks, carry-alls, bucket hitches, etc.) were done with this setup.
$800 delivered with cart is a good price from an internet vendor.
When I had my MM175 I regularly welded 1/4" in a single pass and 3/8" with 2 passes with no problems at all. Once I found the right setting on the dials I was golden. I used .030 wire with C25 shielding gas. All of my projects (landscape rake, forks, carry-alls, bucket hitches, etc.) were done with this setup.
GabeTX
Bronze Member
That particular vendor is good, too.MadReferee said:
I bought my oxy-acetylene outfit from them; shipped quickly and made good on a problem with the order (that wasn't really there fault--Victor changed product lines almost overnight).
HammerFour
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I use a little Hobart 135 ( 110 v ) mig welder. All I have used is flux core wire in it, but it has worked great.
It will do 3/16 in one pass with no problems at all, I haven't needed to do anything bigger. If I were to start building a 3ph backhoe or a grapple, I would get a bigger unit I think.
But for the stuff I have needed to do around our place ( welding on a baler, a hay rake, a sickle mower, gates, fences, you name it ) it has worked perfectly.
I did get an auto darkening helmet, that helps a lot.
It will do 3/16 in one pass with no problems at all, I haven't needed to do anything bigger. If I were to start building a 3ph backhoe or a grapple, I would get a bigger unit I think.
But for the stuff I have needed to do around our place ( welding on a baler, a hay rake, a sickle mower, gates, fences, you name it ) it has worked perfectly.
I did get an auto darkening helmet, that helps a lot.
One of my problems is that I dont have any sort of "feel" for how many amps Id need to do a good job on ..say 1/4 thick stock. While I wouldnt want a maximum output of the unit to be "strained"...hence Im eyeballing 175-180 amp units knowing that Id "probably" be using in the 110-130 amp range....I THINK.??HammerFour said:
MadReferee
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Sully2 said:
Figure out what is the average thickness you will be welding and buy a welder that is rated for that thickness. Go to the Miller, Hobart or Lincoln web sites and forums and educate yourself on the various size welders and what they are capable of doing, thickness wise. Then choose the one you want based on its capabilities. Remember that most manufacturers slightly under-rate their machines.
You have already been given good advice on welders. If you are still confused you need to do some homework or go to a real welding forum and ask there. In fact yur question has been asked and answered several times in the past few months. People who weld for a living will give good advice.
Based on your requirements, the minimum I would choose is a mig in the 175 amp and above range and if you can afford it something in the 200 amp range like the MM210. It will give you the best opportunity to weld thin and thick metal and not give you second thoughts about not getting something big enough.
neverenough
Silver Member
Re: I \"need\" a welder..?
Welders are like trucks and tractors, don't buy too big, and NEVER buy too small. Being a farmer, I have a need for powerful welders. I need to be able to go from thin shield repair, to welding broken drawbars back on 200 hp tractors. I have an old stick welder that is about 300 amp range, and a 290 amp (I think) Miller wire feed (mig) welder. I use the wire feed (mig) for most everything, pulling out the stick welder only for the heaviest of jobs.
IMO, if I was in your place, I would look at the 125-175 amp range wire feed (mig) welders. I have a pro quality auto darkening helmet, and I wouldn't trade it for nothing. It really is worth the investment. Much easier to work in low light conditions.
Sully2 said:
Welders are like trucks and tractors, don't buy too big, and NEVER buy too small. Being a farmer, I have a need for powerful welders. I need to be able to go from thin shield repair, to welding broken drawbars back on 200 hp tractors. I have an old stick welder that is about 300 amp range, and a 290 amp (I think) Miller wire feed (mig) welder. I use the wire feed (mig) for most everything, pulling out the stick welder only for the heaviest of jobs.
IMO, if I was in your place, I would look at the 125-175 amp range wire feed (mig) welders. I have a pro quality auto darkening helmet, and I wouldn't trade it for nothing. It really is worth the investment. Much easier to work in low light conditions.
Ductape
Elite Member
Re: I "need" a welder..?
I'll start by saying that, though i started welding over twenty years ago, i've not done enough of it to consider myself anything but a novice.
I've used an old Lincoln stick welder with some success. Great for heavy stuff. Back in high school i went to work for an autobody shop and learned to weld with a mig. A former business associate had a full sized Snap On 110 mig i spent many hours with.... i think it was a 140 amp. It welded anything i found myself needing to weld. When i realized it was time to own a welder, i started looking at new, full sized machines like the Miller 210 (or equivalent) .... but couldn't really justify spending nearly two thousand (after bottle, wire, shield, etc.) for the amount i need to weld. Then i came across i used Miller 175 ( Thanks MadReferee !! ). It was in mint condition, and i saved a bit over buying new. Though you may want to stick with buying new... i would agree with the other guys here who have advised you to make a step up to a 175 - 180 amp 220v mig. It should do more than a weekend welder like you and I will need. More than a sheetmetal welder..... less than a big stick welder.
I'll start by saying that, though i started welding over twenty years ago, i've not done enough of it to consider myself anything but a novice.
I've used an old Lincoln stick welder with some success. Great for heavy stuff. Back in high school i went to work for an autobody shop and learned to weld with a mig. A former business associate had a full sized Snap On 110 mig i spent many hours with.... i think it was a 140 amp. It welded anything i found myself needing to weld. When i realized it was time to own a welder, i started looking at new, full sized machines like the Miller 210 (or equivalent) .... but couldn't really justify spending nearly two thousand (after bottle, wire, shield, etc.) for the amount i need to weld. Then i came across i used Miller 175 ( Thanks MadReferee !! ). It was in mint condition, and i saved a bit over buying new. Though you may want to stick with buying new... i would agree with the other guys here who have advised you to make a step up to a 175 - 180 amp 220v mig. It should do more than a weekend welder like you and I will need. More than a sheetmetal welder..... less than a big stick welder.
