i need help drilling 1 inch holes

5030 · Feb 5, 2006

John:

A 36 and a 60 are fine. This summer, we will do "drill 101".

A really neat trick for truing a bench grinding wheel is to get a single point diamond dresser (1/2 carat will do) and make a collar that will slide on the shank of the dresser and is secured with a thumbscrew. Adjust the collar so the dresser just touches the wheel when the collar is against the tool rest on the grinder. Proceed to run the dresser (collar riding the tool rest) back and forth across the face of the wheel, keeping the dresser shank at 90 degrees to the face.

As bench wheels aren't as friable (the grains of material get loaded with metal and loose their ability to remove the metal on the part you are grinding) as a surface grinding wheel, the wheel needs to be "touched up" often, revealing new grains to remove the metal from the object you are grinding. The "hot setup" for that is a sharpening stick which is a bonded block of material expressly made for that purpose.

I'm giving away my secrets...................... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

escavader · Feb 5, 2006

Can you believe no one including the local auto parts stores can even order the belt fot that press.I went to sears they wrote a phone # down ,I ordered 2 belts,they are 5/15by 26,30 bucks!.and im done for at least a week,unless i want to shell out more!The next press i buy will have an automotive3/8 sheaves on it.Ididnt dare buy a 3/8 and try to cram it on there,there is no adjustment,and i probably would have wasted 5 or 6 bucks...oh well ill work on something else for a week.
ALAN

5030 · Feb 5, 2006

Leave to Ron Hall. "Good luck".....

You need a "Make a Belt". I use them all the time. Do a Google search for a distributor. I get mine from Enco.

Personally, I would not buy Sears anything.

ronjhall · Feb 5, 2006

Do not ask me how I knew he would need lots of luck finding the belt today. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
I have one of those belts for my boat. Do they make a narrow belt like Alan needs.

5030 · Feb 5, 2006

Ron:

I believe so. Watching the game this evening? Hope Wayne County got the roads cleaned up. That would be a bad thing if they didn't.

We only got a dusting though the wind is blowing pretty hard. I'd hate to think of 8-10 like NOAA said last evening. With the wind, we'd have 10 foot drifts and the M9 would be out there blowing the road open as Monroe County prefers to stay home until the bump shops are full. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

5030tinkerer · Feb 5, 2006

Okay, now I know how people feel when I spout off a few computer term acronyms. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Can someone clue me in on some of these terms:

piloted annular cutter
worried
offhand sharpen (is this just hand sharpening?)
web, web thickness
heel of the drill
proper clearance angles
relieved twist drills
Cutting lubricant – Is this the same as cutting fluid from companies like Tapmatic?
HSS – WOW! I knew one. High Speed Steel /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
magnetic drill press – how does this differ from a regular drill press?
Slugger type magnetic drill press – again, what’s the difference?
Silver & Deming drill bits – how do these differ from HSS or carbide bits?
shell type bits – Am I correctly assuming that these are hollow core bits and that you just drip your cutting lube into the hole for direct application to the piece to be cut?

Thanks guys,

Ed

MadReferee · Feb 5, 2006

Here are a few:

According to This Reference:
Annular cutters are designed to increase through hole drilling productivity while improving hole accuracy. Rugged enough for structural steel fabrication, annular cutters adapt quickly and easily to most magnetic base drills, drill presses, milling machines and CNC machining applications. Annular cutters out perform twist drills and older style annular cutters eliminating pre-drilling, step drilling and hole finishing operations. Solid pilot locates cutter position, guides coolant to cutting edge and retracts into cutter during drilling cycle. Proven alternating tooth geometry minimize kerf area and evenly distributes chip load to multiple cutting edges reducing horse power and drilling feed pressure. Scrap material advances away from cutting edges, forming an easy to remove nest of chips above material surface. annular cutters are ideal for most drilling applications including elongating holes and trepanning operations. annular cutters are manufactured from premium high-speed steel and specially heat treated for cutting edge toughness increasing tool life between sharpening.

========================
According to several sources:
Silver and deming drills are general purpose drills with a reduced shank to fit into a standard chuck, typically 1/2". Most silver & deming drills are 6" long with a 3" flute length. I have also seen them called blacksmith drills or prentice drills.

Silver & Deming Manufacturing Co.
Salem, Ohio

This company could trace its history back to 1854, although the "Silver & Deming" name does not date back that far. The titular heads were Albert R. Silver and John Deming. In the later history of the company, Emmor W. Silver was a principal; he was perhaps a son of Albert.

Silver & Deming was created in 1867 or 1868 after L. A. Dole had died, and Dole, Silver & Deming was renamed. In about 1874, Silver & Deming became Silver & Deming Manufacturing Co. In 1890, the company reportedly split, with one part becoming Silver Manufacturing Co.

Silver & Deming made a variety of machines that were primarily aimed at wheelwrights: hob-boxing machines, spoke-tenoning machines, etc.

Silver & Deming apparently invented the large-size twist drill bit with a turned-down shaft so they can be used in a chuck smaller than the bit's cutting diameter. They did not patent this idea, so the idea was quickly copied by others, but these bits are still called "Silver & Deming drills".

CTyler · Feb 5, 2006

I had to drill a number of 7/8 holes in 3/8 plate. Used a punch to mark the starting point and provide a place to keep the bit from walking. I used a Unibit and set the drill press at the lowest RPM. Used lots of heavy cutting oil and cleaned the cuttings often. The last one cut just like the first, no worries. Heat is your enemy and speed creates heat....go slow.

Also the Unibit will center itself in whatever hole you have drilled already.

5030 · Feb 5, 2006

5030Tinkerer:

You have mail.

andyfletcher · Feb 5, 2006

Use hardened steel hole cutters made for that job. But make sure it doesn't wobble and you feed slowly has they're not tolerant of bad use. If your drilling by hand use a wooden jig so the cutter doesn't wander and apply even pressure. Float levels on the better drills are great for this. Best is drill presses.

Use lots of cutting oil, and never use them without it.

I have found that even with the best care, I can get a short life with these, but all the same are way better than drills that need to remove all material to advance into the work. I can get one to last a complete project which I figure pays for itself.

Fletch

turbo36 · Feb 5, 2006

Best advice I can give you is to send them to me and I will throw them on one of my Mazak CNC mills and really do the job right /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

MikeD74T · Feb 6, 2006

I've only bought EBAY items from sellers with multiple feedbacks. Figure if they are that public as to do multiple transactions they're probably OK as far as legitimate ownership. Not quite like buying from the trunk of a stranger's car. I'll admit the 2 sellers that stiffed me both had a lot of feedback, one was subsequently banned from EBAY, the other a pawn shop. My daughter worked for a dealer of Jancy Sluggers. They took in trade-ins which they refurbed & sold on EBAY.

keeney · Feb 6, 2006

You need several factors to drill large hole efficiently in steel that are difficult to achieve with a hand drill:

1. Correct RPM's.

2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.

3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.

4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.

5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.

- Rick

scott_vt · Feb 6, 2006

( Hiya Alan -

Hey, you might want to consider using a 1" hole saw. I've had great luck with the Lenox brand, they really make good stuff. If you use plenty of cutting fluid you just might get twenty holes out of one, and might even be able to resharpen it if you have to.

Good luck, John )

Hi Alan,
John is giving some great advice with recomending a Lenox hole saw!!! For what your trying to do and the equipment you have, thats your best chance of success IMHO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Also as someone else mentioned, get yourself some cutting oil and some acid brushes and constantly apply oil while drilling!!

scotty

escavader · Feb 6, 2006

Turbo 36,
If i send them to you,i wont be able to post it in BUILD IT YOURSELF /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif,We will have to start a new forum called HAVE SOMEONE ELSE BUILD IT /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifThanks to all who have answerd me,but i cant do nothin til them darn belts come.The way the drill was cutting before i broke the drive belt,leads me to believe im gonna be ok.I am gonna pick up some cutting oil,before i start again.
ALAN

5030 · Feb 6, 2006

Mr. Baker:

Hope you don't "throw" them on one of your Mazak machining centers, that's hard on the accuracy of the machine. I'm familiar with Mazak Turning centers, not mills. Caterpillar 40 V flange coolant through the center maybe??

markct · Feb 6, 2006

( You need several factors to drill large hole efficiently in steel that are difficult to achieve with a hand drill:

1. Correct RPM's.

2. Feed pressure / rate. Can be achieved if you put your weight over it in a vertical-down orientation, but very tiring in other orientations. If you have insufficient feed pressure, the cutting edge of the drill will not grab, but instead bounce and skid over the surface, generating a lot of heat and quickly dulling. Achieving enough feed pressure is one of the reasons drilling the hole in steps is helpful. Each cutting operation spreads the pressure over a much smaller edge than if the entire diameter of the hole were engaged all at once.

3. Torque to handle the combination of #1 and #2. Even a larger drill press can run out of torque if the belt slips.

4. Securement of the piece AND the drill to counter-act the torque. Both for safety and accuracy. If you have a drill with enough torque to do the job, if it binds or snags on exit, (more likely if drilling thinner material), it will likely have enough torque to injure the operator.

5. Cooling. Because it takes both hands to safely operate the drill (see above), its difficult to be able to add enough coolant while drilling. Many coolants designed for machine shop use are typically low viscosity and need to be applied continuously during cutting. On a machine shop setup, there will be a coolant recirculating pump and adjustable nozzles to do this. In a pinch, when hand drilling, if you use a thicker oil for better cling (like motor oil or gear lube), you still need to make sure you have enough flow of oil to carry the heat away. We are not talking just a drop or two so this is quite messy. Also, don't breathe any of the smoke.

)

some very good points indeed, just this evening i was opening up some holes to 1.200 inch with a big drill bit in my milwaukee 3/4 drill, no not drill press, hand held drill! after doing about 2 holes i had to take a break from hanging onto and pushing on the drill, luckly it didnt catch on me, i have had that happen before with that drill, but just the force required to hold the drill in place and apply pressure is enough to wear you out fast!! and if it catches then your in a whole nother bunch of pain! stick with your drill press, it will be alot better than hand drilling. only reason i was hand drilling this is that its a forklift carraige weighing a few hundred pounds, so i couldnt lift it up onto the table of the milling machine

bobodu · Feb 6, 2006

Markct..

Can you get a bar clamp on the end of the drill?
Sometimes the layout lets me do this and it's lots easier to control the drill if you're not busy trying to force it down.

markct · Feb 6, 2006

i imagine i could put a clamp on it to put pressure on, but in this case i was just opening up holes so i didnt need too much pressure, had to kinda get just the right amount so it didnt catch and pull in, its mostly a fight too keep it in place more than anything i suppose, it wants to rotate, and even with the pipe handle blocked it will still cause the thing to tilt to the side if ya dont have a firm grip on it. i have a small magnetic base drill press too, but these holes were bigger than what i usualy do with that press, and there was no wheres to stick it down anyhow

CT_Tree_Guy · Feb 7, 2006

just this evening i was opening up some holes to 1.200 inch with a big drill bit in my milwaukee 3/4 drill, no not drill press, hand held drill! 

Nicely done sir, nicely done. Here's to "doin' what you gotta do", and living to tell about it! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

John