I think I screwed up - Tires R1 vs R4

[DieselnHooters]

Good for nothing? They are about the best tire choice for loader work, which is why backhoes and other construction equipment comes with variations of that type of tire.

If your just considering turf-friendliness and farm-traction, then the R4s could be considered a mediocre compromise. But there are many other factors to consider.

Bought a used MX5000 with R4 5 years ago, its main task is logging and those tires really shine out there. They are more puncture resistant, they are also more stable due to their wider stance and they wont rut those logging paths quite as much as R1 when its wet.

They are perfect for my uses_ logging, FEL work and snow clearing_ I dont do any field work but if plowing tilling etc was even as little as 20% of my seat time then I'd go to R1s for sure.

 

[crowbar032]

Load the tires, and get the front of the logs off the ground. I skid large logs with my little B2920 with loaded R4 tires no problem.

Are you sure it's a 40 degree slope? That is almost 100% grade, and darn dangerous to be on with a tractor.

Actually, I'm not sure of the slope. I just guessed. It's steep enough that I would not try to go up it (again) with a two wheel drive tractor. I tried it one time with a TO-35 Ferguson pulling a 4 foot bushhog and almost didn't get back out.

 

[crowbar032]

That is definitely a concern. It can be alleviated by running a second safety chain from the choker to the drawbar. That way you use the 3-pt to lift the butt of the log, but the safety chain to the drawbar handles the forward pull and alleviates any "wheelie" types of loads about the axle.

One of those contraptions is my next purchase. One of my neighbors has a welding shop and makes them. Unfortunately he's been out of comission this summer from flipping his zero turn mower.

 

[crowbar032]

I'd check your owners manual or with your dealer before adding that many rear wheel weights. I have a 6415 and maximum rear weights is 3 per side.

I will check that. I'm planning on putting 2 on the inside and 2 on the outside. I'll put 3 on on the inside if they will fit and clear the fender bracket. Mathmatically the weights would roughly be the same as loading the tires.

 

[Ojonesy]

Tire hains???
Lots of guys use them to pull logs out of the woods.

Brian

 

[Ojonesy]

Tire Chains???
Lots of guys use them to pull logs out of the woods.

Brian

 

[crowbar032]

Bump for update. I just spent today plowing with a MF 3-14 plow and the R4 tires worked pretty good. I was able to plow down about 8 inches with limited slipping using 4x4. I used first gear in B range with the throttle at PTO RPM's. I should probably also mention the 8 107lb (856 total lbs) weights I now have on the rear wheels as well. I got two on the inside of the rim and two on the outside of the rim. The outside ones stick out about 1/2 inch past the tires. Unfortunately I can't get the 5th one on each side without it sticking out too far to snag fence posts/trees/barn doors/cars/ect. The grease zerk on the axle had to be changed to a 90 to get the weights on and still add grease. The weights made a huge difference in the tractor.

 

[jenkinsph]

I wouldn't put 5 weights on each wheel anyway, four sounds like alot to me. I have three weights on the outside and have considered doing what you did with two per side. It would seem the tire and wheel would be better balanced and in turn less stress on the axles and bearings.

 

[jeff9366]

Question to the OP remains open: Did you have the butts of the logs, closest to the tractor, ELEVATED? If the butts are elevated ground friction will be considerably reduced.

If you were plowing with the logs any kind of tire is going to spin.

Also, if you are plowing and the log butt or a branch stub encounters an immovable object like a rock, you tractor will rear up on its back wheels in 1/2 a second. It you are going up any kind of a slope the tractor will go over backwards in 1/2 second.

When I was new to tractors I went vertical in a John Deere 750 skidding one medium size log plow fashion on level ground, when the butt caught a ridge. It I had not been wearing the seat belt I am pretty sure the tractor would have gone over, not sure in which direction. Every pore opened and I dumped a pint of sweat.

O N C E....B U T - N E V E R - A G A I N !

FURTHER ON LOG SKIDDING:

'http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/244218-omni-manufacturing-omni-grabhook-hanging.html

 

[lilranch2001]

Question to the OP remains open: Did you have the butts of the logs, closest to the tractor, ELEVATED?

If you were plowing with the logs any kind of tire is going to spin.

Also, if you are plowing and the log butt or a branch stub encounters an immovable object like a rock, you tractor will rear up on its back wheels in 1/2 a second. It you are going up any kind of a slope the tractor will go over backwards in 1/2 second.

When I was new to tractors I went vertical in a John Deere 750 skidding one medium size log, when the butt caught a ridge. It I had not been wearing the seat belt I am pretty sure the tractor would have gone over, not sure in which direction. Every pore opened and I dumped a pint of sweat.

N E V E R A G A I N.

did you get video?

 

[crowbar032]

Question to the OP remains open: Did you have the butts of the logs, closest to the tractor, ELEVATED?

Sorry, I must have missed your original question. I was pulling the butt end and did not have it elevated. I pulled the butt end as there were some knots and limbs that I knew would dig in if I pulled from the the top end. Maybe it was dumb logic, but I though I could see the butt end while driving the tractor and maybe stop if caught something. The knots and limbs were farther away and couldn't be seen as easily from on the tractor if I had pulled from the top end of the log. I now have one of those fancy 3-point hitch trailer pullers. The next time I'll use that and lift using the hydraulics so it won't dig in as much.

I'm a rookie, but I was very aware that the front end could lift up so I kept my front end loader on the tractor for weight out front and I was careful with my speed too.

 

[crowbar032]

I wouldn't put 5 weights on each wheel anyway, four sounds like alot to me. I have three weights on the outside and have considered doing what you did with two per side. It would seem the tire and wheel would be better balanced and in turn less stress on the axles and bearings.

Four weights per side is probably less weight than filling the tires with fluid. The 16.9-24 R4 tires would probably hold at least 55 gallon of fluid. Rough fluid math 55 gal * 8 lbs per gallon = 440lbs * 2 = 880lbs total. Weight math 107 lbs * 4 per side = 428lbs * 2 = 856lbs. I did the inside/outside thing mainly so the weights wouldn't bang or hook onto anything. There are enough things to look at when using a tractor and equipment without intentionally adding another worry. If the tractor wheels fit between two objects I can go on through and get close to trees to bushhog without worrying about hooking that weight on a tree trunk and spinning around. In my opinion, it just looks better. Although I conceed the point that the dealer/JD warranty dept. might not agree with this thought process.

For a point of reference, my neighbor has a Kubota MX5100 with two weights inside and three outside (10 total for 1,070lbs) and additional 350 lbs on the front. He really likes doing things overkill. He helped me plow my field using a Dearborn 2-14 plow. He plowed 8-10 inches deep in 5th gear. He said he could have went faster but the plow wouldn't stay in the ground.

 

[jeff9366]

Here is a link to Northern Tool's $300 "Log Hog" skidder.

Norwood Log Hog Log Skidder Tractor Attachment, Model# 41255 Log Hog | Log Skidding| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[crowbar032]

Just wanted to add some pics for posterity. It took about a can of paint to cover each weight thoroughly and I had to go over it twice. I found the JD yellow at NAPA for $6 a can. The hardest part of installing the weights was getting the lug nuts loose. I broke two 3/8 rachets before I switched to a 3/4 inch Harbor Freight breaker bar ($60 for a set of 3/4" set of sockets, rachet, and breaker bar). There are two weights on the inside, but it's kinda hard to see. I should have probably taken the tiller off for a better view, but I wanted to clean it up before storing and didn't want to unhook and then re-hook.

And no making fun of the dust on the tractor. It was from tilling up and re-doing a hayfield, not from just sitting in the barn.