If I were a JD engineer, I would......

[buck12]

.....make a manual specific to each model. For instance the manual for my GT235 also covers the GT225. Just last night I was servicing the mower and pulled out the manual to check the oil capacity (I don't trust my memory any more). Everything in the manual has a capacity for one model then a different capacity for the other model. This is confusing for the customer. How much more would it cost to have a manual specific to each model?

 

[shortthrow50]

Yes, I'm serious. I use my tractor....I dont just mow lawns or wash the tractor. I realize I can find solutions....but I got other fish to fry. "Little" stuff like losing my water bottle is annoying.

Yesterday I put ten hours on my clock tilling about ten acres.....and it was warm and dusty work. I keep a small refrigerator at my shed with bottled water and lose em all too easy. My land is ROUGH. I really dont want to re-engineer this little stuff....or buy a different solution. A deeper pocket or better retention would solve things. I suppose I will look for a hanging water bottle when time (or memory) permits. :laughing:

Regarding the top link....I have two "U" shaped rods welded to either side of my top link....but what about the jamb nut? Still takes a wrench on mine...and usually some kind of bar thru the loops on the top link.

Yesterday I had two crow bars, a 5 lb hammer, a loper, a big crecent wrench, and assorted cutters and pliers bunge corded to my tiller - for field maintenance while tilling new land. Hard to easilly stow this needed stuff.

I was just being the usual ball buster that i am. Im too new around here for people to read me the right way

 

[aczlan]

If I dont fix the Jamb-nut real tight my adjustments WILL change when operating the tractor. I've noticed my cutter going out of adjustment, my box blade and my disc. I don't like leaving things to chance or from the variations that come with the top link losing its setting. Then too....if it's just "snug" it may be wrench-tight when it comes time to change.

Our Kubota B7500 has an aftermarket toplink like: Category 1 Top Link
Our Kubota L3830 has one that looks similar, but it has a nut to lock the barrel in place.
When I tighten the barrel against the lock nut (no tools needed), I have never had it come loose.
Our B7500 and BX2660 Kubotas came with toplinks that has a little welded loop on each side rather then the "bar" to tighten the barrel with, but the bar makes it MUCH easier to use without tools, so the B has an aftermarket toplink that the previous owner of the house left behind and we never use the 3point on the BX, so it is sitting in the barn.

Aaron Z

 

[DKCDKC]

The jamb nuts on my top link and sway restraints are a pain to adjust, but have never moved once tightened slightly with rotary cutter or box blade.

If I were a JD engineer, however, I would move the gear range levers a bit higher and make the 4 wd lever (3038e) easier to reach. I'm not skinny or - at 65 plus - too flexible. Those things are harder to work than necessary. The location of the 3 pt lever is also problematic for a wide guy. You can inadvertently move it a touch by twisting in the seat.

But overall the tractor is great.

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Nothing to do with cup holders, etc. but If I were a JD engineer I would get the 270 hoe done and in production.

 

[jjmarotz]

Excellent idea, my 3520 needs a wrench for the nut blocking the adjustment. The wrench fits in the fender box but takes up too much of the very limited space.

Piece of 3" pvc with the end crimped shut or capped off with a couple hose clamps hold my hammer, crescent, and small prybar nice and handy to the quick hitch. This could be adapted to fit nearly anywhere on implements or loader mast.

 

[buickanddeere]

Engineers can build a descent machine. Trouble is the bean counters, styling and marketing departments become involved.

 

[pacerron]

Engineers can build a descent machine. Trouble is the bean counters, styling and marketing departments become involved.

Very true.
Plus their main incentive is to design the machine for efficient assembly not our ease of disassembly for repair or personal comfort.

 

[fgross335_2210]

I find it intriguing that if I exit my 2210 with the range selector in L or H, which keeps it from moving, the engine shuts off. But if I shift it to neutral the engine will keep running, despite the fact that the tractor will roll away unless on level ground (or if I set the parking brake which I normally do). It would make much more sense to leave the engine running with the range selector in gear, and have the interlock kill the engine if there is no pressure on the seat and either hydro pedal is pressed....the seat switch is already there for the PTO, it would not be hard to change.

Meanwhile on my 355 GT the only way the engine will stay running w/o seat pressure is with the parking break on...yeah real consistent there JD.....

 

[foggy1111]

Change the range selector to prevent inadvertant changes. I continually bump the range selector into neutral while operating. Seems I do this mostly when doing close maneuvering and looking backward - shifting my body in the seat.

Mostly its been slightly annoying....but it really could be big safety issue too.