If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here...

   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #101  
I checked the continuity of all three positions of the switch and all came out ok. When I hook the switch up, i get a 50-07 in reverse. All other settings are ok. So I used a paperclip to bypass the switch and everything seemed to work ok. I then tried starting the TC and trying the "switch" via paperclip. I got a 50-07 almost everytime in reverse. It also threw a 50-68 once, but that one didn't come up again.

So I'm a little torn. When the TC is off, it seems like the switch is bad...but when it's running, it seems it's something else. The 33-23 error is still present too. I really appreciate you helping me with all of this!

Thanks,
298th SMC
US Army
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #102  
Yeah, the results seem inconsistent with a solid failure but consistent with an intermittent. I think I'd be tempted to redo the tests. Did you get a continuity tester and test the FPR switch when it was disconnected from the wiring harness?

Basically, you have three major components that can individually or in concert give you these headaches. The components are: 1) FPR switch, 2) cab harness, 3) Drive controller.

In essence, the psuedo-flowchart (who makes these things anyway?) in the service manual walks one through an exhaustive test of the wiring harness with a jumper/paperclip as you've apparently already done. If the switch is deemed good and the harness is deemed good then the published solution is basically "troubleshoot or replace drive controller". I would be tempted to test the harness by unplugging at the FPR switch and the drive controller and test for continuity. On the 2007 model, this connector to the D.C. is behind the cab and you're getting into an area where significant differences between Toolcat models may exist...so heads-up.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #103  
I have a 2003 toolcat. After I run it for about 1 and 1/2 hours, the back drags. If I let it cool off for one hour, it will work again for one hour. I have replaced fluids, coil, filter and cylenoid. Also, the rear steer has a problem. It will turn one way, but not the other. If I jack it up, it will turn both ways. I have replaced the coil, and stem pins. What could be wrong?
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #104  
Mine is the same way also a 2003 with brand new drive motors. I wouldn't say the back wheels drag my whole machine drags and loses all power I can run it wide open in rabbit and I'm lucky to go 5 mph and close to 1000rpm. I would like any info you guys have on this aswell. I don't have the rear steering problem but I had one similar where they wouldn't straighten back up basically there's some seals in a steering master cylinder type thing that needed replaced and it fixed my problem. Sorry I don't know the technical terminology for what they did to fix my steering. But yeah I'm in the same boat of losing power when it gets hot or runs for 1-1 1/2 hours.. Please help guys..
Thanks
Nick

Also if I try to lift a heavy load say a bucket of dirt when it runs like this it will kill the machine..
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #105  
Ok Guys don't go crazy and everybody answer this at once.. Lol
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #106  
Your issue is probably related to the speed sensors in the axles. Test this by turning off axle matching (procedure in the operators manual) and test the machine. There is probably a sensor that is not picking up a signal and the one that is getting a signal is being cut back to match the no signal axle. Another way to test it is to unplug the speed sensors in the axles and run the machine.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #107  
Your issue is probably related to the speed sensors in the axles. Test this by turning off axle matching (procedure in the operators manual) and test the machine. There is probably a sensor that is not picking up a signal and the one that is getting a signal is being cut back to match the no signal axle. Another way to test it is to unplug the speed sensors in the axles and run the machine.

Where's the sensors located?
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #108  
They are located on the axles by the drive motors.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #109  
On my '03, the rear sensor plug is under the dump bed, on top of the engine.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #110  
Your issue is probably related to the speed sensors in the axles. Test this by turning off axle matching (procedure in the operators manual) ................

Hey Folks, I have a slightly different issue, but noticed this expression 'axle matching' that you used and also 'traction management' in another person's posting.
I can't find these items in my service manual. I have a 2005 5600.Can anyone elaborate on this ? Thanks !
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #111  
Looking to buy 2011 5610. Getting quotes from dealers. Any word on reliability and durability of machine if properly cared for? I will be tilling, cutting grass and using FEL, bush-hogging, hauling children, etc. Just don't want to buy a lemon and wondering if I would be better off with CUT, golf cart and zero turn mower.

Thanks,

Larry
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #112  
I have a couple of questions. The first is related to the front wheels wanting to ''lock up''. Seems it only does it once in a while, then if I leave it sit for a few minutes it seems to start working again. Any ideas on what may cause this? I changed all hydraulic fluid and filter and have only had it out once since.
Traction issues with the factory bar tires vs a truck type wheel/tire combination. I understand there is a wheel from ? that will match the same bolt pattern of the TC allowing a taller/narrower snow tire ? Can you identify what that wheel comes off of?
Thanks
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #113  
i have the front wheels wanting to ''lock up''. on the toolcat 5600 early model
what is the fix , dose unpluging the rear wheel sensor work
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #114  
We have a Toolcat 5600 with an angle broom attachment. We have trouble attaching the hydraulic lines to the machine. It seems like there is a pressure built up that will not allow the lines to mate with the machine.

Thanks
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #115  
Gilt,
we had the same problem and did unplug the speed sensor and now seems to work fine.. I think the sensor replacement will fix for about 340.00 they say. Still haven't replaced and have about 20hrs on since.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #116  
We have a Toolcat 5600 with an angle broom attachment. We have trouble attaching the hydraulic lines to the machine. It seems like there is a pressure built up that will not allow the lines to mate with the machine.

Thanks

If you push in on the connectors and hold them in for a couple of seconds it should ease up the pressure enough to connect them.

DEWFPO
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #117  
We have a Toolcat 5600 with an angle broom attachment. We have trouble attaching the hydraulic lines to the machine. It seems like there is a pressure built up that will not allow the lines to mate with the machine.

Thanks

To expand on DEWFPO's explanation:

If you have trouble attaching the hydraulic lines it is probably because you do have pressure built up. This occurs because you didn't properly bleed or release the pressure from the lines when you detached them from the couplers on the machine. The correct way to detach the lines is to push them in as if you were inserting them and hold it there for 10 seconds, then remove the line line from the coupler on the machine.

If you've already removed the line without bleeding it, then you'll have to unscrew the fitting on the hydraulic line of your attachment, which will release the pressure.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #118  
If you push in on the connectors and hold them in for a couple of seconds it should ease up the pressure enough to connect them.

DEWFPO

To expand on DEWFPO's explanation:

If you have trouble attaching the hydraulic lines it is probably because you do have pressure built up. This occurs because you didn't properly bleed or release the pressure from the lines when you detached them from the couplers on the machine. The correct way to detach the lines is to push them in as if you were inserting them and hold it there for 10 seconds, then remove the line line from the coupler on the machine.

If you've already removed the line without bleeding it, then you'll have to unscrew the fitting on the hydraulic line of your attachment, which will release the pressure.
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #119  
ufm82
hi i am interested in a 5600 toolcat 2008 i haven't seen it yet just talked to a dealer late friday, i am 56 an have a 50 hp farm tractor with front bucket ,7' finish mower, rototiller, blade ect. i want something easy to use, i cut grass mostly and do some projects around the property. they want 32,500 over the phone price there's 230 hr's on it, i asked for a price with the mover,fork's grapple bucket snow blade. any input would really help. i operated one at an other dealer ship and like it but have not demo one on my property. thanks ddonati
 
   / If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here... #120  
I have the 2008 D model, have about 750 hrs. on it. It does real well except with heavy lifting. So far no major problems. Your quote sounds a little high, but that depends on the accessories. Mine is pretty basic, no high flow and some other bells and whistles.
 

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