IH 300 Utility....My new project

[LD1]

Well here is my new project for now.....



Just got her home tonight and its time to eat dinner.

Hopefully I will have time to go over everything and analyze what I am going to do. I need to see what all it needs, and make a decision if a restore is worth the money, or if I will part it out. Heck, the rear 28" tires in my area, I could have them sold for $300-$400 in two days.

I know it needs a shifter cover (you can see it is cracked), A seat, a little stamped metal cover under where the battery goes, a battery, and maybe a starter.

This tractor "supposedly" ran when parked a year ago. It dont run now cause the bendix in the starter "supposedly" isnt engaging, and only spinning. They guy said he bench tested it???

Might make for a cool project and a good bushhog tractor when done, or if it is going to cost more than its worth to rebuild, I'll part it out and make some money that way.

Also came with a junk light duty 5' bushhog, that has some busted metal, loose stump jumper, and missing 1/2 a PTO shaft.:confused2:

$100 spent on the hog with some paint and 1/2 shaft and it'll sell for $300 easy. Tires are really good on the rears, ($300-$400) and 4k lbs of scrap metal for $350, I figured it was worth picking up for $600:thumbsup: even if I cant get her to her former glory again....

 

[Bob77064]

God deal, it came with a driver.

 

[stuckmotor]

Have you tried to pull start it?

 

[LD1]

Have you tried to pull start it?

Not yet. But will attempt that if I cannot get the starter working properly.

I didnt want to pull start it, or attempt to do so when buying. Because it not running was my bargaining chip. If it happened to fire and run, I doubt I would have gotten it for $600.

 

[Varmint1]

Cool project, keep us posted

 

[Kiwi Farmall]

I think you got a good deal on that tractor. It is a shame that the rear tires don't match. I know photos hide a lot but I think that tractor will do up really nice and it would be a shame for it to make the trip to china.

 

[stuckmotor]

Not yet. But will attempt that if I cannot get the starter working properly.

I didnt want to pull start it, or attempt to do so when buying. Because it not running was my bargaining chip. If it happened to fire and run, I doubt I would have gotten it for $600.

Good thinking!

 

[LD1]

Well, so far here is I list of what I know I need if I can get it running....

All fluids and filters..........................................................~$120
Ignition (points, plugs, wire, cap/rotor, etc..............................$50
Proofmeter........................................................................$53
TAch cable.....................................................................~$15
Choke cable.....................................................................~$15
Steering wheel...................................................................$50
Plate under battery.............................................................$30
Shift lever plate..................................................................cannot find, might have to repair
Paint and supplies.............................................................~$100


The hitch needs some work to be usable. It is still the fast hitch with 2-point conversion, so the arms dont swing out independently of each other and the spacing is wrong to use the way it is designed. SO I'll re-design it and likely not spend much money on that. Some of the pins need tightened/replaced in the hitch too, so no money there.

Looks like I might squeak by in the $500 range, and lots of elbow grease. But that is if I can get her running, and make sure there are no issues with the engine, trans, TA, and hydraulics......

 

[DJ54]

Don't know if you've ever used the Case/IH online parts book, but here's a link to it. I went ahead and found the pages for the 300 utility, so all you have to do is click & go. I've had my best luck looking for parts using the part number. You can click on the part selected, and another page will appear with full description. You can copy and paste the part number from that page, and go searching.
Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Best Parts Search and Best Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts

I did a search for the shift swivel on Google using the part number, and did find a used one for $25.00 in Maine. Don't know how current the page is so...

Also, if you need other used items, you might try here:INTERNATIONAL 300 Parts, INTERNATIONAL 300 Machine Salvage, INTERNATIONAL 300 Dismantled Machines At TractorHouse.com Lists 55 300's, but some are Farmalls, (row crop) but many utilities...

I've only seen a few 300's locally, but don't believe I've ever seen one with spin-outs... To the right guy, the rims & disc's are worth what you paid for the tractor.

Looks like it would be a fun tractor, and project..!!

And in case you don't know, that T/A will free wheel in the low side, going down hill..!! Just don't use it to slow down if it does. Slow it with the brakes, then move to the high side. I read where this is the worst thing to do on a dry T/A, and will take them out

 

[LD1]

Thanks for the links to the parts book. I am sure it will come in handy:thumbsup:

I also read that about the TA freewheeling, and also not to try pullstarting with the TA engaged

 

[LD1]

Update:

Got it running today by pullstarting. Ran rough. Carb way out of adjustment, old sparky stuff, weak battery, and very stale gas. But it did run, and all 5 gears work, but I think the TA is out of adjustment.

When pulling back, it runs out of range right as the engine seems to change tone. But no speed change. I think it is out of adjustment.

Hydraulics work good.

The PTO has some issues and I dont know what Im in for there. Runs fine, but when disengaging, right as the lever is all the way down, it PTO is "just" stopping, but makes sorta a grinding/slipping noise. And there is also a vent hole or something about 2" above the PTO shaft, that when attempting to stop it, oil ran out this hole??

So far, I think its worth ordering some parts for. Starting with a general tune up kit, and I'll go from there...

 

[DJ54]

Glad you at least got it started. Don't know much about the 300's as I've got models older, and newer than that series... At least using the parts pages, you can have a look see at the internals, and maybe help diagnose things.

Oil coming out that hole, almost sounds like the oil if floating on water. I'm thinking the oil level should be at, or just below the bottom of the PTO shaft. The exploded view of the PTO is under attachments, but the picture isn't real clear. Is there a side check plug, about the level of the bottom of the PTO shaft..??

 

[LD1]

The oil coming out was milky. So definitely water in there. Upon further examination, that hole is threaded. 1/8 npt. So now I am wondering, does that independent PTO box use its own oil?? And that might be a fill hole???

 

[deerseeker001]

good buy.

 

[DJ54]

I checked under attachments in the parts book, section/page 347, and those do seem to be a sealed unit.

For what it's worth, I scanned a lube chart for a 300, and posted below. If you click on it, it should enlarge enough to read well. And if you print it, it should come out a full page size. It shows the fill plug to the left top. I see an indentation on the left front in the one photo. It also shows a check plug on the chart, and I see a smaller plug, just below the PTO shaft level. Chart also shows the location on the left side for the drain.

Looking on the Case/IH parts page, listed under attachments, and page/section 347, it shows a breather where that possible plug is a top left front.

Also did a Google image search for a 300 IPTO, and found this image. Not real big, but does look like a pipe plug, but more like 3/8. It also shows the breather that should be there. Maybe why the plug was removed, to keep it from barfing oil around the seal, since there is no apparent breather..??

 

[LD1]

With it being a sealed unit all to itself, I wont worry too much. I got to get in there anyway cause it was oozing a but out from around the PTO shaft too. It probably filled up with water, and spinning is why its running out.

Thanks for that lube chart. I was wondering the capacities. Looks like 2 5-gal buckets of hydraulic fluid will be just a quart and a half short.

 

[DJ54]

Better read that chart again... That's in quarts. 14 at most, so should give you 1-1/2 gal. for refills if needed.

 

[LD1]

I was counting the trans as well.

28 qts for the trans, 13.5 for the hydraulics. 41.5 qts total.

Unless for some reason universal trans/hydro fluid isnt good enough for the trans??

 

[DJ54]

Well, you got me there... Guess I shoulda' checked the chart myself... Sorry... I'd imagine they spec. Hy-Tran for that. I use TSC's Premium, and have for years. No problems so far.

 

[300UGUY]

I had a 300U for about 15 years. I totally restored mine, I had about 8K in it. It is a awesome bushogging tractor. My problems started when I tried to put a loader on it. 1st, the front axle isn't designed to support a loader. 2nd, with a loader on it, without power steering, it is almost useless. Power steering units are very rare. I used hytran for the pto. I am not sure , but I think I used tsc stuff later. I sold it after I broke the crank in it, hit a stump bushhogging. I have a reprint manual, that i will give you if you want. PM on here.