moriboy
Gold Member
At one point in its life, I'm sure it had a head gasket change. Is there any possibility it could have gotten put on upside down, blocking the water jacket holes that run between the head and block?
I have successfully used caustic soda to clean the cooling system of engines before. Mix roughly double dose of what is recommended on the box with water and run the engine warm, drain and flush through the system with clean water a few times. Usually it will loosen all the rust and sludge that block the cooling channels in the motor
At one point in its life, I'm sure it had a head gasket change. Is there any possibility it could have gotten put on upside down, blocking the water jacket holes that run between the head and block?
Rad/coolant flow isn't that hard to check, output temp from engine to rad, intake temp to the engine from the rad.
The reason the coolant boils out after shut down is because the temps are running borderline while engine is running, then when you shut down the engine heats up and pushes the temps over the line resulting in a boil over.
If there's no overt evidence of head gasket problems that does mean there isn't an issue there, I've run into all kinds of head gasket problems that don't present themselves so front and center.
However I do think it's worth considering a coolant jacket issue in an engine of this age. I've found a layer of sediment layering the bottom of the jackets of blocks reach and cover as much as 3/4's an inch of the cyl. walls. This sediment has the consistency of leather clay and the only way to remove it is acid bath or physically dig it out. If you have a drain plug in the block remove it that'll give you a view of that portion of the coolant jacket, if the plug is set a little above the floor of the jacket take a curved pick and root around beneath what you can see. And if the coolant only trickles out or doesn't flow at all, you have your answer.
Timing should be pursued. No marks? Not surprising they may not be found, old engines marks do disappear. Shrug, rust, wipe, rust, wipe, rust, wipe etc etc. They do disappear or become so faint impossible to see or use. If you can't find them after finding the pointer or notch mark. Remove no. 1 spark plug and turn the engine over by hand till the piston starts coming up on it's compression stroke, now take a slim screw driver or something similar and stick it into the plug hole until you can feel the top of the piston, now continue to turn the engine by hand and bring the piston to top dead center. Don't bind your probe as your doing this but allow yourself to feel it along as the piston comes up, with a little practice you can get surprising close to if not exactly on TDC. Now go back to your pointer or notch and look. No TDC mark?............then make your own.
It's not as complicated as it sounds.
Is it really overheating or just kills. If it just kills check fuel cap. Cap could be clogged causing a vacuum.