I'm going Bobcat..

   / I'm going Bobcat.. #101  
I will.. :eek:. Question.. Would a 335# rear box blade, and filled tires, be enough?

NO. Op manual calls for 880 lb. rear ballast if tires are not filled for doing loader work. 660 lb. rear ballast on 3 pt, with filled tires. Personally, I run filled tires and 800 lb. ballast. The more weight on the 3pt. the less weight and stress on the front axle.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat.. #102  
I will.. :eek:. Question.. Would a 335# rear box blade, and filled tires, be enough?

I do not know how much my box blade weighs, but it is a heavy bowstrd. That and filled tires with beet juice is all I need for plenty of traction
 
   / I'm going Bobcat.. #103  
I found a "county line carry all" at Tractor supply. Says it'll hold 1,000 #s.
Maybe I can mount a barrel on it? Not having any luck finding anything else.
A Carry-all frame is a good investment. They come in handy for many things. I used mine for rear ballast a few times. After bolting some 2X plank on it, I set 2 55gl. barrels on it trapped then down and filled with water. That will give you more than sufficient ballast, plus when the garden starts dry this summer just take it out and dump the water on the garden. :thumbsup:
 
   / I'm going Bobcat..
  • Thread Starter
#104  
I'll figure something out. Taking a few (3) days vacation next week to get some stuff done on the farm.
Maybe I'll drag the trees away, instead of picking them up.
I will find something in the 800+# range.
So far, every place I've called has been no help.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat.. #105  
I know there are some currently listed on ebay.

Be a careful shopper as some are only capable of handling 400 - 500 lbs.

You want 800 - 900 lbs. minimum in my opinion.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat..
  • Thread Starter
#106  
I know there are some currently listed on ebay.

Be a careful shopper as some are only capable of handling 400 - 500 lbs.

You want 800 - 900 lbs. minimum in my opinion.

Went with the eBay one. Holds 800, and the box weighs 100+.
Quincy tractor had one for $400 that held 500. (I'll hold off on the heavy stuff until I get the rear ballast in.)
What do you guys put in there? Sand..
Thx.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat.. #107  
I use sand.

Others may use scrap steel, lead, concrete, etc.

You may want to consider "parking" the ballast box on some kind of dolly when not attached to the 3 point. This will allow you to more easily manage the movement of the box to and from the tractor.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat..
  • Thread Starter
#108  
I use sand.

Others may use scrap steel, lead, concrete, etc.

You may want to consider "parking" the ballast box on some kind of dolly when not attached to the 3 point. This will allow you to more easily manage the movement of the box to and from the tractor.

I'll look into a dolly. The barn is getting a bit cramped for space.
I was actually thinking of leaving it outside.
Here's a tough one for me to admit.. I'll turn 60 this summer, and I've never used a 3 point hitch before.
Well, I did 40 years ago, but that experience has been deleted.
I was hoping with the adjustable rear arms, the hookup wouldn't be too difficult.
I'll have to check out uTube. On how to hook up something to a 3 pt hitch..
Embarrassing.
 
   / I'm going Bobcat.. #110  
I'll look into a dolly. The barn is getting a bit cramped for space.
I was actually thinking of leaving it outside.
Here's a tough one for me to admit.. I'll turn 60 this summer, and I've never used a 3 point hitch before.
Well, I did 40 years ago, but that experience has been deleted.
I was hoping with the adjustable rear arms, the hookup wouldn't be too difficult.
I'll have to check out uTube. On how to hook up something to a 3 pt hitch..
Embarrassing.

Some simple 3pt hookup instructions:
I wish I could be there to help you and show you, One time would be worth 1000 words, but here goes.

Back up with throttle at idle, so you can go really slow in low range, try to approach the implement as "square" as possible with the lower links slightly lower than the pins. Have your lower links set wide by using your telescoping stabilizers in the widest hole but not hitting the tire of course. So you get to withing about 1 inch of the pins, slightly low and both pin locations as close to even as you can get it with the tractor.

Get off and now extend you telescoping links by pressing on the top of the latch and remove the pin from your telescoping stabilizers. Pull out your telescoping portion of the lower link and lift it up slightly and put the ball over the end of the pin. When you have the ball on the pin, put on the retainer clip on the pin. Do the same for the other side.

The idea of coming in just a bit low is you can easily lift the lower links a bit, but you cannot manually lower them. Of course you can use your rear 3pt control to make minor adjustments if you need to. Just dont get any or your body parts in the way. Once the lower links are captured, then get your top link either screwed in or out to make the top link connection. Now get back on the tractor and with the implement on the ground back up a couple of inches and the lower links will snap back in and lock in their latches. now raise the implement a couple of inches off of the ground and get off of the tractor and get down and push the implement sideways with you body until it is centered with the centerline of the tractor. Put one of the telescoping stabilizers pins in an available hole. Note where that hole is. Do the same for the other side.

You may need to "body check" the implement to get it to sway a bit so the holes will line up. Get behind the implement, and check it for level side to side. If it is not level, use your right hand vertical lift rod crank adjuster to adjust it. You will often need to drop the implement to make it easier to crank, and then lift and check, repeat as needed.

Now you may need to adjust your top link to get the implement to sit like you want it to, and to raise to the height you want. Again you may need to lower the implement on the ground and raise it to relieve pressure on the top link jackscrew to make it easier to turn.

If this is a PTO powered implement I will turn the tractor engine off and hook up the PTO shaft After getting the lower links hooked up but before I hook up the top link, to give more room. Push up on the PTO shield to give more room for your hand. It will likely be stiff so push up hard. PTO couplings hook up 3 different ways, the push button sideways kind, the pull collar back kind, and the twist collar kinds. Keep the couplers well greased, and the shaft well greased. Once the collar seems securely on then pull on it to make sure the balls are in the groove.

Again if we were together, you would learn more in 2 minutes, than reading this 50 times, but hopefully this will help.
 

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