Garandman
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2014
- Messages
- 3,134
- Location
- Mount Sunapee NH / Dorchester, MA
- Tractor
- Kubota L3200 HST
Learned about the original impeller mod kit (from Clarence’s Small Engines in Quebec) about 20 years ago, but never installed one.
Boston gets very heavy, wind-packed snow and they use plenty of road salt. So you have heavy, salt infused snow/slush that will clog even the most powerful machines. The modification consists of adding rubber tabs to the impeller blades to close the gap between the housing and blades. There are many before-and-after videos on YouTube, here’s a good example.
Purchased a kit for the Honda HS928T on eBay, with stainless plates and ha4dware. An Ariens or any other brand is very similar. It’s not hard to put together your own kit for a few dollars.
In addition to wrenches, purchased two tools that really helped: a 12” magnetic drill bit extension, and a locking C Clamp.
Step 1. Take out the rubber pads and put them in your freezer.
Step 2. Remove the clamps for the discharge Shute and set it aside. There are small washers under the top plate, don’t lose them.
Step 3. Rotate the first impeller blade until it is horizontal.
Step 4. Place the rubber pad and metal keeper in position. Not shown: use a sheet of card stock (which is about 0.010” thick) to provide clearance between the housing and pad.
Step 5. Position the C clamp between the two 0.25” holes in the metal keeper and clamp it. Lined up the metal keeper with the edge of the impeller and the rubber with the opening (minus the card stock thickness).
Step 6. Light dawns over Marblehead. Keeping everything in place while you drill was initially a PITA. After trying clamping the clutch, auger, impeller, standing on the auger with my foot, the solution - which any Infantryman will know - is parachute cord. Made a loop to pull up while drilling down.
Step 7. Drill right through the two clearance holes, the rubber pads, and the impeller.
Step 8. Make a “sandwich” with the bolts, keeper and pad and drop them in place. Put on the nuts, and tighten them. This kit came with stainless steel 1/4-20 bolts and Nyloc nuts. Putting the pads in the freeser makes the rubber harder and easier to drill through.
Before reattaching the chute, took it outside and tested it. All good, reattached the chute.
First one took 30 minutes to figure out, other two took 15-20 minutes each.
Boston gets very heavy, wind-packed snow and they use plenty of road salt. So you have heavy, salt infused snow/slush that will clog even the most powerful machines. The modification consists of adding rubber tabs to the impeller blades to close the gap between the housing and blades. There are many before-and-after videos on YouTube, here’s a good example.
Purchased a kit for the Honda HS928T on eBay, with stainless plates and ha4dware. An Ariens or any other brand is very similar. It’s not hard to put together your own kit for a few dollars.
In addition to wrenches, purchased two tools that really helped: a 12” magnetic drill bit extension, and a locking C Clamp.
Step 1. Take out the rubber pads and put them in your freezer.
Step 2. Remove the clamps for the discharge Shute and set it aside. There are small washers under the top plate, don’t lose them.
Step 3. Rotate the first impeller blade until it is horizontal.
Step 4. Place the rubber pad and metal keeper in position. Not shown: use a sheet of card stock (which is about 0.010” thick) to provide clearance between the housing and pad.
Step 5. Position the C clamp between the two 0.25” holes in the metal keeper and clamp it. Lined up the metal keeper with the edge of the impeller and the rubber with the opening (minus the card stock thickness).
Step 6. Light dawns over Marblehead. Keeping everything in place while you drill was initially a PITA. After trying clamping the clutch, auger, impeller, standing on the auger with my foot, the solution - which any Infantryman will know - is parachute cord. Made a loop to pull up while drilling down.
Step 7. Drill right through the two clearance holes, the rubber pads, and the impeller.
Step 8. Make a “sandwich” with the bolts, keeper and pad and drop them in place. Put on the nuts, and tighten them. This kit came with stainless steel 1/4-20 bolts and Nyloc nuts. Putting the pads in the freeser makes the rubber harder and easier to drill through.
Before reattaching the chute, took it outside and tested it. All good, reattached the chute.
First one took 30 minutes to figure out, other two took 15-20 minutes each.
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