Implements for motocross track maintenance?

[HARBAW]

With a whopping 4 hrs of seat time, I think that my Kub M5400, LA1001 FEL w/teeth doesn't break VERY packed & baked clay to well. Enough power, but not enough traction/weight. I've seen several posts about track maintenance so I'm hoping to borrow from others' experience. What implements would be best? I'm thinking tiller, scarifier, boxblade w/scarifiers, yard rake. Which one would be the best one to buy first, boxblade? Need to mix the soil when it becomes baked/packed & rake out rocks at times. Hopefully replies will help others too.

Thanks!

 

[jay_ch28]

Hey Harbaw,
I have a TC40D that I used to build my track. I think I spent about 200hrs building it. I found that the best way to make new lanes for my track was to use the box blade. I'd set the scarifiers as deep as possible and just drag those behind for a few passes. It also depends on how you are planning on building your track. This is a great way to make some sections pretty rough. Just before I have a bunch of people over I'll do this. The the bikes will make ruts/whoops. Then as it dries it will harden up and get even rougher over time.

I've also heard of people renting a tiller for the PTO to soften the soil, then it is really easy to use the bucket to move dirt around.

 

[HARBAW]

Thanks jay_ch28.
Looks like I need to find a heavy duty boxblade. The Woods units a local dlr are very nice but pricey, about $875. I can get lighter, cheaper units, but I'm afraid I'll bend them in the tough soil with the power I have.

** Can anyone recommend other heavy duty box blades in addition to Woods? The King Kutter units at TSC are fairly light duty compared to the Woods unit.

 

[Glenn9643]

I've got a 6' Bush-hog brand box blade that's been bulletproof. However, I don't remember what I paid for it.

 

[theboman]

Seems a disc would break it up for a FEL with teeth.

Not enough traction with the FEL: Are your tires loaded? Are you using a counter weight on the back? Those two things would help tremendously.

 

[sweettractors]

HARBAW, Welcome! Good to see you on TBN. I think you and I discussed your specific application via phone this week. IMHO, I still feel that a good roto tiller and box blade would be the best combo for what you explained to me, ie, preparing the track and then mixing other various materials into the loose soil as time goes on. A new 74 inch First Choice roto tiller with slip clutch at $1499 and 7 ft Big Bee HD box blade with teeth at $450 + shipping should do all your chores effeciently. --Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *New Allied/Buhler 3 Point Hitch 50-60" Snowblowers in Stock Today*

 

[HARBAW]

theboman,
I've never used a disc harrow. Seems to me that until I'm able to mix some material into the clay soil, that it might have a hard time penetrating with all those discs spreading the load, or do I just need to put some heavy items on top of the disc harrow to push it down? Some folks strap logs on top of them.
Rear tires (AG type) are filled & I have a very heavy 6ft grader blade on the 3-pt which provides rear weight.
Thanks!

 

[plumboy]

I have clay soils too but havnt had a problem with hard pack because of all the rain we've had the past couple of years.The main thing is to have a box blade to scrape over the ruts and braking bumps so puddles dont form.Puddles on mx track = disaster.The surfaces of the ramps are easily done with the front loader before(and during)a day of riding.Woops are to hard to maintain so I dont fool with them.But I say the three main tools are fel,boxblade,and a three point hitch disc.the disc doesnt have to be big.The teeth on a boxblade will work but its easier to run over it and not be dagging dirt around with the blade.I had 10 triaxles of sand loam brought in so it does help mixing the clay up.

 

[HARBAW]

Ok guys, my implement needs are clearer now, thanks to your replies. Looks like a disc harrow or tiller may be the first item needed followed by a rake for reducing rocks. Two questions though.

1) Will the disc harrow sink in to baked/packed clay? Need to add weight to it?
2) Seems to me a tiller would be the optimal tool (more $), but I'm concerned about a few VERY rocky sections & potential tiller damage even with a slip-clutch. Seems disc would just roll over those areas unharmed.

Thanks again!

 

[jay_ch28]

I would have the same worry about damage. I have a friend that just got a disk. Hasn't used it yet, we are waiting for spring.

Could you post some pics of your track or a layout. I'm trying to get some ideas for my track. I want to change it up next year with some new jump sections. How big are your jumps, what types?

 

[plumboy]

I wouldnt waste my money on a tiller.They dont like hard ground at all and just bounce off.A three point hitch disc will be very maneuverable and you can add wight to it to help it sink in.

 

[plumboy]

I forgot the most important thing.Get a water tank.The biggest you can get with a pump.I use a 100 gal boomless on mine in the summer.

 

[HARBAW]

plumboy,
Good point about water. I had some serious dust in the summer. Can you tell me more about your 100gal setup? What is "boomless"? Is that enough to keep dust down? I have a line on a 210 gal tank that fits in my pickup truck for power washing. Think there's a good way to water from that? I also have two 35gal tanks.

I'd also like to hear more from anyone about good ways to weight a disc harrow & what size to get for my 4WD KUB M5400.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Currmudgeon]

If the disk won't cut the hardpack, you may need to get a chisel plow, aka subsoiler, to break it up. The good news is that they are relatively cheap, as implements go.

 

[jay_ch28]

I borrowed a 250 gal tank for my truck for a weekend when it was really dusty. I went to the hardware store and got some PVC pipe, T fitting, and 2 end caps. I drilled holes about every 2". The setup was gravity fed so all I had to do was opened the valve and drive around the track. Of course you can't do the jumps that well using this method, but it worked well on the places I could get my truck and in the corners, plus it was cheap.

 

[RobertN]

Let's see... Helmet, leathers(although I have not seen any made of leather for dirt biking), chest protector...

Oh, the tractor! Load your tires so you have the weight to get traction. I have a small Kubota, and lots of clay. For all around ripping, a Gannon roll-over scraper really lets you dig in. The teeth work independant of the scraper, so a second pass is needed to smooth. But, the scraper is built like a tank, and is heavy so it digs in to clay better.

I have a regular box scraper. It is lighter, and works for most stuff. But to really scarcify, the long teeth on the roll-over box along with the weight really dig in.

Get T&T too. That way, you can angle you turns and berms so you can turn and burn when you ride. Although the adjustability is there with the mechanical links, it is sooo fast to tweak as you go with Top and Tilt.

Another thing is to check Ebay. See if there is an old fire engine available in your area. Would work great for watering the track, especially were a regular water truck can not get clos(use a hose line or the deck gun).

Is your track already built? If not, you might get a dozer in to make the basic shape, and then finish with the Kubota. As much as I like regular tractors, it is really hard to beat a large skid steer or the hybrid tracked "all terrain loader" like the ASV-RC50, Cat-247, or Bobcat-T190 for this kind of earth moving.

Interestingly enough, for my times at Prairie City OHV, where they run the "Hangtown Classic" AMA-Pro races, I have never seen a tractor out or near the track. I have no idea how they maintain that track.

 

[sherpa]

What about a 5 foot pulveriser, looks like that would work very well on a MX track.
Sherpa

 

[HARBAW]

Thanks to all for the replies!
- Jay ch28: that's a great watering idea, I'll use it.
- Currmudgeon: The subsoiler might be the ticket for tough sections.
- Can anyone educate me on RobertN's Gannon roll-over scraper idea. That may be the ultimate weapon. I have one remote hydraulic in the back. I suspect it's like a box blade that lets the dirt flow freely out the back(?)
- Same for sherpa's pulverizer idea. I attached a pic of one found in a search.

 

[RobertN]

Here is a web page with a small roll-over box on a Kubota BX.
www.geocities.com/runnernest/BX22.html

www.landpride.com/cgi-bin/byteserver/manuals/lp/pdf/303-082p.pdf

I will take some pictures of mine this weekend.

To give you a rough idea, the scraper is set on a bar/pivot. It has three positions. In the first position, the ripper face down. This allows deep ripping(mine could go about 12-14" if I had the wieght and power to pull it.

If you pull the trip lever, you can flip it to position two. this would place the ripper to the rear, up out of the way. The scraper blade and box are no facing forward, allowing you to scrape going forward.

Again tripping the lever, the whole thing rotates, for the scraper is facing backwards. this is great for pushing stuff backwards, or for smoothing.

I will have to take pictures, because it is hard to "picture" with words...

 

[sweettractors]

For more box blade configurations and maintence tools checkout Tufline by clicking Here If you see anything you like email us at sweet@scrtc.com for a price quote--Ken Sweet