leonz
Super Member
block heater saga continues:
=======================================================
The issue is more one of preparation;
Items needed:
a. patience
b. more patience
c. shop paper towels-blue ones
d. oil drain pans for hydraulic oil/ waste oil can
e. pail of hydraulic oil to replace oil drained
f. metric 12 point wrenches, 3/8 drive metric sockets-shallow and deep and one extension the length of the pump to reach the back side of the pump mounting flange near the engine block-I dont remember if the back side has studs and nuts or bolts.
g. pry bar-possibly to push pump flange away from crankcase to remove the pump with the spur or bevel gear attached to the pump shaft.
h. patience
i. blue lock tite to reinstall the nuts and or bolts when reinstalling the pump
j. use a torque wrench!!
The gear pump will be below the oil level so- plan on draining it completely as you will not have enough hands or time to swap and hold hoses up UNLESS
you inventory the type of hoses and buy the JIC plugs and caps for the hoses and pump to reduce oil spillage.
Plug and cap the hoses and the pumps fittings with JIC caps which is most likely what is needed anyway.
1. Remove the nuts and or bolts to ready the pump to be removed.
2. gently take the pry bar and see if you need to separate the pumps mounting flange from the engine crank case.
a. it may come very willingly with a bit of wiggling-be prepared as it will be heavy to handle.
you will make short work of the block heater and then you can reinstall it all.
If it were me I would rather see you use a kerosene salamander-no fussing with anything but kerosene and believe me they heat things uo quick- I always have issues with ice plugged roof drains and it heats up the downspouts quickly.
You could always put it on a timer and start the heater 3 hours before you want to use the tractor.
If you do not feel confident enough to do the repair rehab work it may be simpler in the long run to buy a salamander fired by kerosene as it will work and work well; and if you have a good timer hooked up to plug the salamander into you will have fewer worries and a hot engine and battery to start up.
The salamander I own is an reddy heater with 110,000 BTU per hour kerosene unit. tractors are worse than cars as heat sinks because they have more engine surface area with the cooling system to gain or lose heat.
=======================================================
The issue is more one of preparation;
Items needed:
a. patience
b. more patience
c. shop paper towels-blue ones
d. oil drain pans for hydraulic oil/ waste oil can
e. pail of hydraulic oil to replace oil drained
f. metric 12 point wrenches, 3/8 drive metric sockets-shallow and deep and one extension the length of the pump to reach the back side of the pump mounting flange near the engine block-I dont remember if the back side has studs and nuts or bolts.
g. pry bar-possibly to push pump flange away from crankcase to remove the pump with the spur or bevel gear attached to the pump shaft.
h. patience
i. blue lock tite to reinstall the nuts and or bolts when reinstalling the pump
j. use a torque wrench!!
The gear pump will be below the oil level so- plan on draining it completely as you will not have enough hands or time to swap and hold hoses up UNLESS
you inventory the type of hoses and buy the JIC plugs and caps for the hoses and pump to reduce oil spillage.
Plug and cap the hoses and the pumps fittings with JIC caps which is most likely what is needed anyway.
1. Remove the nuts and or bolts to ready the pump to be removed.
2. gently take the pry bar and see if you need to separate the pumps mounting flange from the engine crank case.
a. it may come very willingly with a bit of wiggling-be prepared as it will be heavy to handle.
you will make short work of the block heater and then you can reinstall it all.
If it were me I would rather see you use a kerosene salamander-no fussing with anything but kerosene and believe me they heat things uo quick- I always have issues with ice plugged roof drains and it heats up the downspouts quickly.
You could always put it on a timer and start the heater 3 hours before you want to use the tractor.
If you do not feel confident enough to do the repair rehab work it may be simpler in the long run to buy a salamander fired by kerosene as it will work and work well; and if you have a good timer hooked up to plug the salamander into you will have fewer worries and a hot engine and battery to start up.
The salamander I own is an reddy heater with 110,000 BTU per hour kerosene unit. tractors are worse than cars as heat sinks because they have more engine surface area with the cooling system to gain or lose heat.
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