Installation Help

[RFB]

I also posted this in the general repair sub-forum.

I am looking for any recommendations or counsel regarding the installation of a block heater on my Kubota L5030.

The one page of instructions that came with the kit says that I must remove the hydraulic pump to install the block heater.

It also requires driving a steel sleeve into the block using "Locktite" (but does not specify what type, which makes me wonder if they mean something like Permatex sealant). The steel sleeve has a smooth outside diameter (where it looks like a friction/interference fit into the block), and the inside diameter is threaded to receive the actual heater element (which requires "teflon tape" type of thread seal).

The final caveat in the instructions is (after driving the sleeve in with a mallet) to ensure that you have not punctured the cylinder sleeve of the block.

That warning set my brain on fire.

Have any of you done this job?

 

[KennyV]

Loctite makes a sealer and thread locker...
I believe Permatex makes a similar product they call Locktite...I think either brand will likely work, but I have always preferred Loctite brand... Your automotive supplier will carry the type you need to seal core plugs into engine blocks...

You need to drive squarely into the hole, that may be the reason you need to remove the pump... As to damaging the liner, that should not be a problem if you take a little care when driving it... Not as difficult as it sounds... KennyV

 

[funwithahoe]

I also posted this in the general repair sub-forum.

I am looking for any recommendations or counsel regarding the installation of a block heater on my Kubota L5030.

The one page of instructions that came with the kit says that I must remove the hydraulic pump to install the block heater.

It also requires driving a steel sleeve into the block using "Locktite" (but does not specify what type, which makes me wonder if they mean something like Permatex sealant). The steel sleeve has a smooth outside diameter (where it looks like a friction/interference fit into the block), and the inside diameter is threaded to receive the actual heater element (which requires "teflon tape" type of thread seal).

The final caveat in the instructions is (after driving the sleeve in with a mallet) to ensure that you have not punctured the cylinder sleeve of the block.

That warning set my brain on fire.

Have any of you done this job?

I bought the same block heater from Kubota and I think I have the best advice - Take it back and the spend the money on a big new battery. I looked at how they wanted me to install that and it looked like a recipe for disaster. I think you are suppose to drain the antifreeze out knock a hole the block then seal that thing in there - major pain and if you are like me you'll break more than you will fix.

I bought an oversized battery and my tractor started to -5F last year.

 

[brandoro]

An oil pan heater would help too. STICK-ON OIL PAN HEATER

Have to say, the block heater you have sounds like a difficult install. The block heater in my B3030 just threads into an existing opening in the block.

 

[luc]

you must have kit # 70000-00297.
It's really pretty simple, you have to remove the hydraulic pump to get to the correct freeze plug to remove it.
To remove the plug, use a drift and punch it on 1 side (to make it rotate) and pull it out with pliers
the steel sleeve take the place of the frezze plug and is slightly tapered to help driving it in and you can't drive it in too much since there is a ridge on it.
Just use some blue loctite on the OD of the adapter and just make sure that you start it straight.
Use a piece of wood between the hammer and the adapter.
Just take your time and check that you have clearance between the bottom of the adapter and the block.
Put some teflon tape on the heating element and screw it in tight, but do not over-torque it.

 

[Shimon]

You could probably get away with using blue Loctite...but I would recommend using the right product. You want to use Loctite 620 which is a retaining compound for metal to metal slip or press fit cylindrical components. There is a difference between thread lockers, thread sealers and retaining compound. And 620 is the same as 609 except that it is rated for higher temps (up to 450F) and it will fill a larger gap (up to .015").

I've been through Loctite's one day class twice and it was very helpful to learn about all the different products. You can always contact Loctite (or Permatex) and they will point you in the right direction as to what product will work best for what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[leonz]

block heaters etc.

I also posted this in the general repair sub-forum.

I am looking for any recommendations or counsel regarding the installation of a block heater on my Kubota L5030.

The one page of instructions that came with the kit says that I must remove the hydraulic pump to install the block heater.

It also requires driving a steel sleeve into the block using "Locktite" (but does not specify what type, which makes me wonder if they mean something like Permatex sealant). The steel sleeve has a smooth outside diameter (where it looks like a friction/interference fit into the block), and the inside diameter is threaded to receive the actual heater element (which requires "teflon tape" type of thread seal).


NO NO NO N0, you can break a fitting thread with teflon tape-use the liquid only



The final caveat in the instructions is (after driving the sleeve in with a mallet) to ensure that you have not punctured the cylinder sleeve of the block.

That warning set my brain on fire.

Have any of you done this job?

Yes I have,

its a pain for any water cooled engine that is small;
The large volvo pentas have lots room but the job is no different

I would slip the sleeve in the freezer for a few hours or overnight for it to shrink and then slip it with a wood block and dead blow rubber mallet-if needed, freezing does wonders for cone type bearing cups too.

better yet a wooden dowel seal driver made to the dimensions of the inside bore of the sleeve and depth of the sleeve with a wide step to stop it from being driven further than the outside edge of the casting would be very safe to use even with putting the sleeve in the freezer for a few hours.


I would place the sealant on the casting edges and not the sleeve anyway to begin with.
Option two: what about a coolant heater plumbed into the bottom radiator hose?, less deadly and less work there are a ton of them on the market,

messy either way unless you use a salamander like I do-I can't help it im lazy, and its worked for 17 years in a row for everything I use-especially the firewood processor- a half an hour and it would be plenty warm for you with no worries as the crancase will be warmed up as well and its a great ice melter simply from the point of warm air and the tractor sucking in the heat and releasing the cold metal temperatures.

 

[funwithahoe]

block heaters etc.




Yes I have,

its a pain for any water cooled engine that is small;
The large volvo pentas have lots room but the job is no different

I would slip the sleeve in the freezer for a few hours or overnight for it to shrink and then slip it with a wood block and dead blow rubber mallet-if needed, freezing does wonders for cone type bearing cups too.

better yet a wooden dowel seal driver made to the dimensions of the inside bore of the sleeve and depth of the sleeve with a wide step to stop it from being driven further than the outside edge of the casting would be very safe to use even with putting the sleeve in the freezer for a few hours.


I would place the sealant on the casting edges and not the sleeve anyway to begin with.
Option two: what about a coolant heater plumbed into the bottom radiator hose?, less deadly and less work there are a ton of them on the market,

messy either way unless you use a salamander like I do-I can't help it im lazy, and its worked for 17 years in a row for everything I use-especially the firewood processor- a half an hour and it would be plenty warm for you with no worries as the crancase will be warmed up as well and its a great ice melter simply from the point of warm air and the tractor sucking in the heat and releasing the cold metal temperatures.

Again, I agree with previous posters - Don;t mess with it. I bought a bigger battery but as these guys suggest there are great other heater options and probably better then a bigger battery. Even the one poster who had done it recommended a better option.

Your 'Bota dealer probably bought one of these in 1989 and then keeps reselling the one that people bring back!!:laughing: I actually included mine in the sale when I sold my last 'Bota.

 

[RFB]

Thank you gentlemen for all of your responses. I had intended to accomplish this task in conjunction with my 2 year coolant flush/refill, and the task at first seemed straightforward. It still does for the most part. I can be careful with inserting the sleeve. I now know what type of locktite and thread sealer to use thanks to the subject matter expertise here.

The one item that gives me pause is the removal of the hydraulic pump. I am definitely not Mr. Goodwrench. I can handle a straightforward unbolt/rebolt, but if there is a skill set requirement....

I really do want to do a block heater for the -40f nights.

Have any of you ever pulled a hydraulic pump?

 

[KennyV]

I really do want to do a block heater for the -40f nights.

WOW... you do NEED a block heater at anywhere near those temps...

Moving the hydraulic pump should be no problem, watch for a good seal on the suction side, the pressure side will show any leak immediately at start up...