Installing Toothbar

rmath · Mar 19, 2005

Well, I just received my new toohbar from FFC. I am putting it on a B2710 with a 60" bucket. I set in in the bucket and if it is slid all the way to one side, there is a 5/8" gap on the other side. If I center it I'll have 5/16" gap per side. Is this too much gap? I can send it back but, I really want to mount and use this today! What about making spacers? Would anyone do that or do you think I should send it back?
Thanks for any input... I'm standing in the garage now just looking at it and wondering what to do.

REM

RoyJackson · Mar 19, 2005

Although it would be nice if the gap were a bit smaller, I suggest you just use a few washers as spacers. I use two larger diameter washers on both sides of my tooth bar which equal a total thickness of ~ ¼" (each side).

Actually, the extra clearance does help in installation and removal.

ronjhall · Mar 19, 2005

Thats about the same clearance I have on my B2910 60" bucket. Tooth bar came with six washers to use as spacer between bucket sides and tooth bar.

rmath · Mar 19, 2005

Thanks Roy, I'm glad you said that. I want to install this thing bad and it would kill me to have to wait another 2 wks for a new one.

REM

rmath · Mar 19, 2005

Ok, that's 2 installs and 0 send it back. I'm going to begin drilling. Thanks for the quick responses. I really rely on the experience from members on this site. Thanks again and enjoy the weekend. It's raining here but, when the toothbar is on I'll be digging something anyway.

REM

MadReferee · Mar 19, 2005

Get some washers. I have 2 big ones on each side of my B2710's 60" toothbar. Also, use a bi-metal hole saw to drill the holes. It will be like a hot knife thru butter as the bucket walls are only mild steel.

KennedyDiesel · Mar 20, 2005

I had a hard time removing my Deere Worksite Pro it was so snug. I plan to give it a slight shave with the grinder primarily to round the edges.

PineRidge · Mar 20, 2005

Mine is a FFC also and I have been happy with it from day one. A washer or two on each side will suffice and also make putting it on and taking it off much easier. Let us all know how you like digging with it once it's installed.

cisco · Mar 20, 2005

Most use a Unibit, or similar, for drilling the appropriate holes. As far as clearance, you're within the average. My toothbar is a bit tighter, which can make taking it off a challenge (I need a hammer). If you crank down on the nut/bolt combination, you'll diminish the gap you currrently have.

rmath · Mar 20, 2005

Thanks for all the input. I have the toothbar mounted and ended up using 2 washers on each side. You guys were right on the clearance, it makes it very easy to put on and off.
I drilled the holes with a 1/2" Milwaukee drill. I started with a 1/4" pilot hole and then a step drill to finish. It worked very good.
I got to really try it out today. My son has a 4-wheeler track and we moved some of the jumps around and alot of the dirt was frozen. The FFC toothbar just busted right through and we were able to get everything done.
If it wasn't for this site, I would have never thought of getting a toothbar. Thanks to all for your experience and sharing it with all of us.
When I figure out how to post pictures, I'll show the tractor setup and what I was able to do with it.

REM

rcrcomputing · Apr 20, 2005

Same brand, arrived today.
The toothbar is way tight for my bucket. Should I presume to beat it on with a 2lb hammer hitting the spikes? Looks like the bucket bottom is about 3/16 to thick for the little v's in the toothbar.

PineRidge · Apr 20, 2005

Do you by any chance have a removable cutting edge that may need to be removed before the tooth-bar is installed?

rcrcomputing · Apr 20, 2005

Hey thanks for the quick reply. No, it's a new ck30 with the factory bucket and is welded.

I've never seen a toothbar installed, but it looks like the v in the teeth is made for the tip of the bucket to fit snugly in it.
Am I wrong? should there be a gap of about 3/4" between the tip of the bucket sharp edge and the inside of the v in the toothbar?

rcrcomputing · Apr 20, 2005

Heck, a picture is worth a thousand... See attached.

rcrcomputing · Apr 20, 2005

another

MadReferee · Apr 20, 2005

Mine is like that, it's not a problem. The tooth holder is designed so that it will fit several styles of cutting edge. It is also designed so that if your cutting edge is worn the holder will still fit tight. It's hard to see with all the dirt, but my cutting edge is worn and the tooth bar fits tight but there is a gap.

PineRidge · Apr 21, 2005

I think Mad is correct. Just get the tooth-bar seated as best that you can before installing the holding bolts. Digging forces will take care of the rest.

You're going to love your new tooth-bar, Enjoy!

rcrcomputing · Apr 21, 2005

Good deal. I was holding off for one more second opinion since I only get one chance to do this right. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

One last question. I'm new to the tractor/bh thing, but have found it usefull to turn my bucket down and "float" as I drive backwards to rake up leaves etc.. With the TB on, This won't happen. Soooo , do you find yourself removing the toothbar often?
If so, would a clevis pin be a good thing? That would allow play...

MadReferee · Apr 21, 2005

Removing the tooth bar takes maybe 5 minutes. I haven't removed mine in about a year but it's no big deal. It's just one nut on each side.

I do not think a clevis pin type arrangement will be a good idea. My mounting bracket is slotted to allow for adjustment and a non-solid fastener system will not work.

I backdrag all the time with the toothbar in place. It's all in the technique.

PineRidge · Apr 21, 2005

<font color="blue"> One last question. I'm new to the tractor/bh thing, but have found it usefull to turn my bucket down and "float" as I drive backwards to rake up leaves etc.. </font>

I only remove the tooth-bar for winter use. To back-drag with the tooth-bar in place try using the back edge of your bucket. It works pretty well for us.........