Insulate Well Tank?

[josephny]

With those modifications you should notice a substantial change in electric consumption. And with your Ecobee - if you see a BRUTAL wx front moving your way you can always temporarily kick the temps up a few degrees.

I really like the Ecobee but it doesn't go down below 45. I even emailed their support for confirmation of this. Oh well, I'll have a cozy well house.

 

[Deere Dude]

Thank you all so much!

Pump is down into the well, I believe about 150’.

Well head is about 200’ from the house and the house doesn’t have room for the tank.

Here’s a summary, as best I understand:

1) Setpoint temperature can and should be set much closer to 32 – 38 degrees would be good. This will prevent freezing, save energy and save wear on the heater.
a. The problem with this is the Ecobee only goes down to 45 and I am 100 miles away during the Winter so remote monitoring is a very useful thing.

Thank you!

I found a controller that a heating strip, heater or bulb can be run through and can be set to any temp, whereas heaters generally bottom out around 45. I got one on Amazon.

 

[dmccarty]

Someone else suggested moving tank, etc to the house. Excellent suggestion. In this dayi and age I do not undersand people installing well houses/pits.

If one does not have a garage, crawl space or basement, where does one put a pressure tank? :confused3:

Later,
Dan

 

[josephny]

I found a controller that a heating strip, heater or bulb can be run through and can be set to any temp, whereas heaters generally bottom out around 45. I got one on Amazon.

Does it have remote monitoring and control like the Ecobee?

The Ecobee connects via wifi to make current and historical inside and outside temp (and humidity) available as well as allowing for adjustments.

 

[PILOON]

Other than insulation (especially on window) add a small computer fan to move the heated air around and place the thermostat that controls that heater at the lowest and farthest from the actual heater.

 

[RNeumann]

Does it have remote monitoring and control like the Ecobee?

The Ecobee connects via wifi to make current and historical inside and outside temp (and humidity) available as well as allowing for adjustments.

I use the Honeywell WiFi thermostat that is touchscreen. I “monitor” both the shop and house remotely. The thermostat does read humidity and goes down to 40°f. The app for the phone etc works great!

 

[Deere Dude]

I found a controller that a heating strip, heater or bulb can be run through and can be set to any temp, whereas heaters generally bottom out around 45. I got one on Amazon.

Does it have remote monitoring and control like the Ecobee?

The Ecobee connects via wifi to make current and historical inside and outside temp (and humidity) available as well as allowing for adjustments.

No, it is just a stand alone unit.

 

[radioman]

why not just cut the air space needed to heat ? just run a row of 2x4 along the walls in u shape as low as you can without interfering with equipment below? use then cut up the thickest foam you can buy from store and use it as a platform covering everything all the way to the door. i know everytime you need to service pump or check things you just lift it up and out of the way but being so light - the air space being heated cut in half is a plus. you still can use the building to protect everything else and keep ambient heat inside.

 

[LouNY]

Thank you all so much!

Pump is down into the well, I believe about 150?

Well head is about 200 from the house and the house doesn稚 have room for the tank.

Here痴 a summary, as best I understand:

1) Setpoint temperature can and should be set much closer to 32 38 degrees would be good. This will prevent freezing, save energy and save wear on the heater.
a. The problem with this is the Ecobee only goes down to 45 and I am 100 miles away during the Winter so remote monitoring is a very useful thing.
2) Foam board should be put over the window as this is a source of heat loss.
3) Any drafts should be identified and eliminated. Around window and door frames, as well as the use of a sweep for the bottom, is a likely source.
4) Move heater closer to tank and piping and enclose that area (like a closet) so as to heat only that area.

I致e got to get cracking on this as the real Winter will be here soon.

Thank you!

I would say that you have it summed up nicely. The only thing I would add is check the temperature of you water if it is
<45 lower your temp. setpoint if it is >45 I'd use the 45 for a buffer in case of a power outage. Are you using the water when you
are a 100 miles away? Would it be feasible to drain and blow it out?
good luck with what ever you do.
Oh, and by the way I prefer a remote pump house, rather then having the pressure tank in the house.

 

[turnkey4099]

If one does not have a garage, crawl space or basement, where does one put a pressure tank? :confused3:

Later,
Dan

In the house. It only takes a couple square feet of space.

 

[dmccarty]

In the house. It only takes a couple square feet of space.

We don't have the space. There is no space in the utility room. So should the pressure tank go into a bathroom, which does not have the space? Then you have the noise of the tank to handle.

Square footage in a house is expensive. Why spend the money for something that is best kept out of the house in the first place?

I designed our house and one of my design problems was the master closet which has built in cabinets. There is a section of wall about two feet long that is "empty" meaning there is no storage on that wall section. This drives me nuts. The reason that wall is empty is money. To put in a cabinet one foot deep, which would give us two square feet of storage, would require one foot added to the entire length of the house. That happens to be 55 long which means 55 square feet added to the house. At $100 per foot, that is $5,500 for a two square feet of storage. :shocked:

A cabinet 1'x2' is not really useful so it would really need to be 2'x2' to be worth the effort but that increase the cost to $11,000 for a bit of storage. Not worth it. I look at that

To keep the same square footage in the house and get that 1'x2' storage would require loosing one foot out of the width of two rooms that can't really afford to loose that 12 inches due to the impact of door placement which would then shorten walls then need a minimum length. Forget about trying to get 2'x2'.

To get a 2'x2' area for the pressure tank would require similar expense and really mess up the design on another part of the house. Just easier and cheaper to keep the pesky tank out of the house. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Later,
Dan

 

[Valveman]

Well if space is an issue, you might consider a PK1A constant pressure pump control kit. Not only does it work better than old style pressure tank systems, but it will fit in a 14X14X24 enclosure. This can easily fit under a small fake rock, or above the water heater, where it doesn't take up any floor space and needs very little heat to keep from freezing.
Eliminate Big Pressure Tank / PK1A Install Video - YouTube

 

[turnkey4099]

We don't have the space. There is no space in the utility room. So should the pressure tank go into a bathroom, which does not have the space? Then you have the noise of the tank to handle.

Square footage in a house is expensive. Why spend the money for something that is best kept out of the house in the first place?

I designed our house and one of my design problems was the master closet which has built in cabinets. There is a section of wall about two feet long that is "empty" meaning there is no storage on that wall section. This drives me nuts. The reason that wall is empty is money. To put in a cabinet one foot deep, which would give us two square feet of storage, would require one foot added to the entire length of the house. That happens to be 55 long which means 55 square feet added to the house. At $100 per foot, that is $5,500 for a two square feet of storage. :shocked:

A cabinet 1'x2' is not really useful so it would really need to be 2'x2' to be worth the effort but that increase the cost to $11,000 for a bit of storage. Not worth it. I look at that

To keep the same square footage in the house and get that 1'x2' storage would require loosing one foot out of the width of two rooms that can't really afford to loose that 12 inches due to the impact of door placement which would then shorten walls then need a minimum length. Forget about trying to get 2'x2'.

To get a 2'x2' area for the pressure tank would require similar expense and really mess up the design on another part of the house. Just easier and cheaper to keep the pesky tank out of the house. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Later,
Dan

"Square footage in a house is expensive. Why spend the money for something that is best kept out of the house in the first place?"

So you spend more money to build a well house or pit and then more on insulation.

As for the noise? What noise? My tank is in the basement and I hear nothing but the water running into the tank. Lot quieter than my refrigerator in the kitchen and I only hear the water running if I am in the basement or toilet.

My neighbor drilled a new well right next to an outbuilding so he could put the tank in the outbuilding...after two winters he had superinsulated that room and had aux heat in it. Odd since the original tank was ALREADY installed in his basement.


i get it that you are in favor of well house/pit and nothing with change your mind.

You remind me of my neighbor.

 

[PILOON]

In the house. It only takes a couple square feet of space.

You don't meed a big pressure tank. Most would fit under a standard counter.