Insulating Pole Barn Ceiling

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The start of the building work, drilling holes, setting poles and erecting the big trusses

 

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Rough framing exterior door and window openings, starting the roof panel installation and a peek inside looking up

 

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beginning to close it up.

 

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Mardi and a old man inspecting, guarding against lumber thieves and resting....

 

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pretty much done on the outside except for final grading, seeding and connection of downspouts to UG drainage piping. Also picture of Riptorn, mouser in chief on





the project

 

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Since the last pictures were taken, I done a lot of the ceiling purlin installation work and have been scrounging for more polyiso foam insulation and lumber materials. I also moved four big piles of lumber into the building last week to begin the wall furring and the finish the remainder of the ceiling purlin work.

I will be taking more progress pictures soon when the sun comes back out.

I plan on putting in the water, sewer main and UG electrical service entry conduit in starting early next week and follow with the under slab baserock work.

 

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I'm getting ready to pickup the house wrap material for the exterior wall construction...the material will installed over the vertical wood furring.

Menard's has a wrap material called Typar which seems to meet my requirements. It's breathable, doesn't trap moisture but stops air infiltration. its available in 9 foot wide X 100 long rolls, which works with my pole spacing with almost no waste. Does anyone have experience with the material?

I intend to secure it with plastic coated staples.

 

[Oldmopar]

Im glad everything is working out well for you! Your building looks very nice, should be nice and bright inside with the tin installed, not to mention comfortable. My Dad and I used Typar on his 34x42 garage last summer, seems to be good stuff and ALOT less than true Tyvek. We used 8d nails w/plastic washers underneath to install it, but needed to because we sheeted the outside of the garage w/ 1" foam board.

 

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I'm trying to come up with a usable inside base detail at the bottom of my exterior walls. I think I want to use a CCA 2X6 or 2X8 base. It seems like the base material should just butt the posts and be a the same front plain as the exposed post surface. It makes the installation of the metal wall panel much cleaner. A continious base on the exterior face of the post would probably look better but complicates the metal panel install and results in a loss of .75 inches of floor space at each wall. Also the projected base profile would be harder to deal with a future base cabinet unit install.

Am I thinking right about this or do I even need a base? Running the metal panels to the floor line doesn't seem like a good solution. Does someone have a better idea?

 

[KennyG]

My solution won't work for you but I had some alternate ideas in the process. I've got a bunch of used T-11 type paneling (7/16") and I am installing it as wainscote about 40" high. I have a strip of 3/4" thick wood at the top of the paneling and the metal will just rest directly on that.

You could put a 1x2 (treated if you think it's necessary) at the floor and put the metal above that. It will probably only be 1/4" thicker than the ribs on your metal, so you won't really lose space.

The metal supplier will probably also have a variety of trim pieces and one will be a box section with a nailer that you can install against the framing and, again, the metal will sit right on top of it. However, that will still give you concrete against metal, unless you elevate the trim strip. I have treated 2x6s on the concrete between the posts, so I will have nothing else in contact with the concrete.

I think you are on the right track keeping the metal off the concrete. My exterior metal wasn't installed very well and the parts that were in contact with concrete rusted away completely, apparently in about 25 years.