Internal Retaining Ring Tool

[BenH]

I am in the process of removing the steering cylinder on my Kubota L5030 for repair. I am in need of a good internal retaining ring tool. The one I have, which is one from Harbor Freight will not compress the ring enough to remove it. Any recommendations for a tool that will work? I think the retaining clip will accept around a .126 tip. I just don't want to keep trying with inadequate tools and maybe damaging the clip. Then I would be in a serious bind.

The retaining clip I am attempting to remove is the one that secures the steering cylinder into the axle housing rings that the cylinder slides into.

Thanks for any suggestions.
Ben

 

[Rayster]

Napa used to sell a very nice unit that was internal and external with different angle and pin(size) inserts. Google "snap ring pliers", lots of hits.

I would think any "quality" tool dealer would be able to get you one. I think mine cost was about $85, but they are 17 years old now and still work very well.

 

[BenH]

Thanks Rayster,
I did Google "snap ring pliers" and there are plenty to look at. The problem is that I have no idea which will work. The ones I have are either too flimsy or just will not compress the internal ring enough to remove it. I will keep looking for a quality tool that will compress the ring enough to remove.

Much appreciated.
Ben

 

[Rayster]

There is a set of internal only at MATCO TOOLS. Maybe you can get on the phone and call some of the tool companies.

 

[BenH]

Thanks, I will check it out.

There is a set of internal only at MATCO TOOLS. Maybe you can get on the phone and call some of the tool companies.

 

[Bird]

Some years ago, I finally threw away the junk snap ring tools I got from the Homier traveling tool sale, when I got a set of Matco tools for both internal and external rings.

 

[Zebrafive]

I've had good luck with this style tool.

 

[Baby Grand]

I've been real happy with several snap ring plier made by KD & bought from local NAPA stores. They weren't cheap, but they've lasted and lasted and work fine. Different types & sizes are required for different size & type snap rings. Some are tiny & slender while some are big & require a lot of force to deform. Example: old typewriter (?!?) vs truck transmission.

https://www.google.com/search?q=kd+snap+ring+plier&safe=active&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=4IhyUsTuGqj_4AO954HYAQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1044&bih=909

 

[BenH]

I will be checking the local NAPA store as well as a few other stores today. The snap ring I am removing is pretty stiff and set into a deep slot so it has to be compressed completely to be removed. This is a picture of the ring….

 

[kw22614]

Snap ring pliers is the common name for the tool. As others here have said you can buy a quality name and pay a quality price or, because this tool doesn't get used that often unless you're in the business, I recommend buying any brand but get a pair that's at least 8" or bigger. The bigger size will give you the power you need to get off the most stubborn snap ring. If possible, get one with 2 holes in the body so you can use it as both an inner and outter ring tool. Sears would be a good place to find one reasonably priced. Good luck...

 

[BenH]

I am seriously thinking about doing the same.

Some years ago, I finally threw away the junk snap ring tools I got from the Homier traveling tool sale, when I got a set of Matco tools for both internal and external rings.

 

[BenH]

I found a good snap ring plier today. It is German made by Knipex and is a dedicated internal ring tool. It is well constructed and should last forever. Price was $39 at a discount tool store compared to $82 for the same tool at a major retail store. I have the steering cylinder on the workbench now and am stumped at how to get the center seal, which was definitely blown, in place. It is a rigid seal and has to fit over a larger steel section. I don't want to destroy the new seal forcing it, but really don't see how to get it installed otherwise. I would think that if it had to be a split seal to fit, it would have come that way.

Any suggestions?
Blown seal and the new one. It has to slide over the center part.

 

[Baby Grand]

Looks like the wrong seal if it can't stretch enough - maybe a serial number break change? The old one appears to be an O-Ring that would stretch enough to get over the sides and into the "gland". If it didn't cost too much, you can always try to stretch the new one and if it breaks - oh well. If it installs - oh boy! Did you checked the Kubota parts diagram for this seal part number, or was this selected by the parts department? It's worth taking the time to get the right seal installed so you won't have to go thru this all over again if the wrong seal fails quickly.
Here's the "O-Ring bible", overkill unless you have a keen interest in material selection, sizing and function:
http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

 

[BenH]

The new seal is right. It is a hard seal like the blown one. There is also an O-Ring, which is still on the shaft in the picture. The hard seal goes over the O-Ring. The center seal is a 2 part seal. There was a reply to a post of mine in the Kubota Forum about my steering problem with a link to a video about how to install the new rigid seal and it involves using some pretty expensive tools that I do not have. The seal has to be heated in a controlled temperature oven, put on a cone shaped mechanical stretcher and stretched to the correct size, placed on the shaft and compressed with a Clasper back to the correct size. I am going to take the cylinder to a hydraulic shop and have the center seal installed. I hope it won't cost an arm and leg since I have everything apart and have the new seals on hand.

Ben

Looks like the wrong seal if it can't stretch enough - maybe a serial number break change? The old one appears to be an O-Ring that would stretch enough to get over the sides and into the "gland". If it didn't cost too much, you can always try to stretch the new one and if it breaks - oh well. If it installs - oh boy! Did you checked the Kubota parts diagram for this seal part number, or was this selected by the parts department? It's worth taking the time to get the right seal installed so you won't have to go thru this all over again if the wrong seal fails quickly.
Here's the "O-Ring bible", overkill unless you have a keen interest in material selection, sizing and function:
http://www.parker.com/literature/ORD%205700%20Parker_O-Ring_Handbook.pdf

 

[BenH]

I took the disassembled cylinder to a hydraulic shop today along with the seal kit I already had and left it for repair. The cylinder housing had a tiny burr in the center area which abraded the seal and caused it to fail. The shop is going to lightly hone the housing and install the complete seal kit for $40. I couldn't say okay fast enough when I heard the price. It will be ready for pick up late today or early tomorrow morning.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Sometimes you have to use the snap ring pliers to loosen it up then take a flat screwdriver, get under the ring at the end and run it around the ring to make it come out of the groove. Try that and see if it doesn't work for you.

 

[BenH]

That is pretty much what I did after finding a snap ring tool that would compress the ring enough to get it started with help of a screw driver. The cylinder is getting new seals now.

Thanks,
Ben

Sometimes you have to use the snap ring pliers to loosen it up then take a flat screwdriver, get under the ring at the end and run it around the ring to make it come out of the groove. Try that and see if it doesn't work for you.

 

[Zebrafive]

Knipex is a good brand, good find. Also good you found the cylinder needed to be honed. $40 is not bad for the work they will be doing.

MY suggestion to install the new seal would have been put it in boiling water to heat it up so it could be installed.

Having the shop do it for $40 is a better idea.

 

[BenH]

I could not be more pleased with the price. It was fortunate that the burr inside the cylinder housing was caught and is being taken care of. The new seal would probably not have lasted long otherwise. Can't wait to get the tractor back together.

Ben

Knipex is a good brand, good find. Also good you found the cylinder needed to be honed. $40 is not bad for the work they will be doing.

MY suggestion to install the new seal would have been put it in boiling water to heat it up so it could be installed.

Having the shop do it for $40 is a better idea.

 

[Baby Grand]

Glad to hear you found a good service shop. I'm really surprised at the assembly routine required - learned something today. Hope you're up & running again soon.