Is my MF 231 running too hot??

[sawtooth]

There is a on going debate about Tstat temps. The old school of thought was 160-170F with full open of 180-190F. Then about 1980 or just a tad later it was decided that a 180F Tstat was better meaning opening begins at 180F and full open ends up around 200F. Personally I'm not sure it matters either way as I have a Ford 4000 that runs fantastic with its 160F Tstat and I have a 4600 with a 180F one that runs just as good. So the difference is what again? Not sure, maybe a little more fuel efficiency I don't know but feels the same to me driving anyways. It really doesn't matter anyways as this entire thread is about flow and or heat transfer from scaled up radiator etc. Once you correct your issue you can run either Tstat you want.

 

[TomSeller]

Yes I definitely wanna do that. What kind of thermometer do I need? One like you stick in meat or one when your sick and stick in your MOUTH? lol

You may be able to pull it out when it starts opening and shoot it with your infrared.

 

[Travis_R]

I was able to run the tiller some this evening. Still a little too wet though.
The needle did climb some when under a load, but it didn't go into the white. (Forgot to take pic!)

All in all, I think once I start bush hogging tall grass, the needle will be right there close to the white like always. Maybe not quite as close, but still right there at it when the radiator gets clogged.

When I removed the upper thermostat housing to install the new Tstat, the upper housing did have some rust in it. Not a whole lot but it was definitely there. Was too difficult to remove though.

Another thing, I haven't drained the block yet. I forgot to when I drained all the old antifreeze!

I wonder if the radiator cap could be bad? What about the temperature sending unit??

Let me clear something up so everybody will understand:

When I run the tractor under a load, the needle has never reached the white part of the gauge UNLESS I over work it, or when the radiator gets clogged with grass/seeds.

So now what? Where do I go from here? Look into it farther or drain the water, add new coolant and call it good?

All I want is for the engine to run the normal temp. that it should.

 

[TomSeller]

The radiator cap simply pressurizes the system which results in a higher boiling point. Since you appear to be opening the cap when the engine is running, are you using a rag or something so the steam does not burn your arm and hand? Is steam, pressure spewing out? You should not open a pressurized system but we have all done it with proper precaution.

 

[Travis_R]

The radiator cap simply pressurizes the system which results in a higher boiling point. Since you appear to be opening the cap when the engine is running, are you using a rag or something so the steam does not burn your arm and hand? Is steam, pressure spewing out? You should not open a pressurized system but we have all done it with proper precaution.

Immediately after the engine was under a load from tilling I opened the cap with the engine idling. Absolutely no steam or water came out the radiator. I even looked inside and there was no movement of water from what I could tell. Also when I cracked the cap, I couldn't hear any "bubbling" or "pressure release" like you would hear on a gasoline engine.
Then I felt the outside of the radiator. The top and bottom were both warm to the touch, but not hot.

Im sure if I would have done this to a gas vehicle engine the water would have boiled out and spewed all over me. (I have done this before)

 

[sawtooth]

Ok If it were me I would try tilling again till the needle gets into the white. When it does us a rag or towel to open rad cap. If its boiling out its too hot if not then its ok. Get back on it and see if it keeps getting even hotter. If so check again. Please use the towel though so you don't get burned. Just make sure water barely covers radiator core and is 1-2" from cap. It doesn't need to be all the way to top. If it never boils out you may have a sending unit issue or a gage thats not correct. You could probably even use a temp gun to check temp of radiator at top near thermstat vs removing cap. I just do cap though but thats me.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[buickanddeere]

I see some worrying over a non issue here.
Again as previously stated. How can you trust a 50yr old gauge that having the needle in the white is a problem.
Install a new gauge which indicates degrees.
As for the operator who can't tell the difference between a 160F and 180F stat with the seat of his pants. Put a emissions sniffer in the stack at idle, part load, varying load and full load. You will have your eyes opened. Raw fuel going up the stack doesn't make power.
Another point. Anybody aware here on the difference coolant temp has on cylinder wall wear?

 

[CalG]

I agree with buikanddeere

A lot of fluff and little fact. A non issue if there is no boil over.

The guage is a pointer, Little more than an Idiot light without a bulb. What is the temp when things are "normal". And more to the point, what difference does it make. Get a thermometer!

As long as there is water in the system, the engine will NOT damage it's self in over heat. It's when the cooling water boils out and leaves the engine dry that things go south in a hurry.

IF the fill of coolant boils during a long hard pull, It's a radiator problem! Clean the radiator! (leaky head gaskets aside, you do need to make sure that the waterpump is pumping and that the engine mechanicals are in order, You know, oil and stuff like that.)

Since the days of Smoky Yunik it was made plan fact that Infernal combustion engines are more efficient when they run HOT . Why do you think the presurized radiator cap was invented? But it needs to be an even heat (no hot spots to make distortion.

The Fordson radiator cap is 4 pounds of cast iron with a screw down knob. The cooling system has an impeller, but the system is thermo-syphon. Engine temp is controlled by lifting and lowering the canvas blind in front of the radiator. I keep an eye on the "temp-o-meter" sticking out of the CI top tank. In winter, It's allmost impossible to get the water up to 170 degrees, even with the blind fully closed.


Plus, think if you had an air cooled engine....there would be no questions!

Get a cooking thermometer. Loosen the radiator cap so you can't build any pressure in the system. Run the tractor to build up the temperature. Stick the thermometer in the rad fill opening and MEASURE the coolant temp. 160-200 degrees F. You are GOLDEN!

Is your temp sensor electrical of "expanding fluid" with a capillary tube? If the former, clean and tighten the connections.

Hotter IS better! But in the case of water cooled, don't run dry!

 

[murphy1244]

I said it about 60 posts ago there is nothing wrong with that Tractor.

 

[J_J]

Travis_R

This data is for the hydraulics.

Excerpt from Eaton Hyd:

Temperature
To obtain optimum service life from
both the oil and the hydraulic system,
operate between 49C (120F) and
54C (130F). The maximum oil
temperature normally recommended
is 66C (150F).