its a Jinma for sure.. but there's some part i cant figure, i need HELP (

Jose G · Dec 28, 2012

circlegtractors said:
Jose, take a good picture of that front axle and I will tell you if it is a Jinma front axle or not.

Ben
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts, Farmpro, Nortrack, Agracat

Hi Ben,

sorry for the wait, had too much family things im sure you understand

here are some new pictures from the tractor and the front Diff:

noticed the hood latch?

the engine from top

some other pic...

i have a new problem now(or 2), my father was snow plowing in 4x4 (as usual) and suddenly, he noticed the 4x4 wasnt working, he tried and tried, but nothing, the 4x4 is gone, he tried the wheel lock, not working either... i guess its 2 new problems. (he isnt hard on the machine, i probably im the source of the problem)

i raised the front and tried to move the front wheel, when i move either one, the other one dont move (i know its supposed to move in the opposite direction but not in my case right now), i think i hear the diff working when i move the right wheel, but the left one do not seem to move anything else... tomorrow ill remove the guard plate under the driveshaft cover (why do i have a guard plate??, more than 8 bolts to remove...) to know if the driveshaft is moving.

another thing... when i check my hydraulic oil, i always hear a "PSsssshhhh", am i supposed to hear this? (hydraulic have some leaks but nothing major...)

i can provide more pictures if needed, the tractor is in the garage for the time it takes to repair the 4x4.

thanks and hope i took enough pictures

Jose G

greg_g · Dec 29, 2012

The sound you hear is pressure being released as the ball valve opens. I think many if not all those hydraulic leaks are self-inflicted - in an attempt to keep hydraulic fluid from dripping down the backside of the tractor. Wet rear ends are simply endemic in Chinese compacts. Some raise the vent to minimize the spillage, but that technique still maintains the vent principle. That ball valve at the rear - when closed - makes it a sealed system. When sealed, over-pressure from hot expanding fluid seeks the path of least resistance; in this case, past rubber seals.

Short version; get rid of the ball valve.

Many reasons for 4wd issues, systematic troubleshooting is the only way to narrow it down. So you're on the right track. But the bit about the wheel lock not working, did you mean the differential lock? If true, definitely two problems - diff lock being the more serious. And definitely a separate problem, there's no direct relationship between diff lock and front drive.

//greg//

Jose G · Dec 29, 2012

so the air venting is due to my leaks, ill fix them today.
the rear dont have any leak by chance, its always my fault because i prefer to use a "oil suction pump" to ease the process (the cabin sit a bit over the fill plug) and it spill some oil.
after lunch, ill go diagnose the problem of the 4x4 and start the unbolting...

ill need help to diagnose the differential lock afterwards since i never played with this (always had LSD, detroit locker, etc... things that went by itself lol)
ill take a picture of the lever too just in case (i like to have everything in picture)

thanks for your comment Greg, i really appreciate

Jose G.

Jose G · Dec 29, 2012

Both end of the driveshaft circlip were broken but still holding the 6 balls/bearing correctly, i disassembled the things to clean it untill i get new circlip. (ill post pictures)

the guard plate seem to be part of the FEL, seems to be a ZL20 but its the first time i see that guard plate.

i had a leak coming from the left side so i decided to disassemble the hub anyway, the big crown is intact, the bottom little one also, ill continue disassembling the things, i may drop the whole axle to have a look inside, i wish its just a broken shaft now... i guess there's a C-clip holding it in the diff if its the case so i would have to drop the axle anyway...

i even made a video of me turning the wheel and nothing else was turning lol

more later...

Jose G.

Jinma284 · Dec 29, 2012

Jose, there should be a vent tube in the fill plug that you replaced with the ball valve. That can cause leaks. Pressure builds up as the hydrawlic oil heats up. That has to go somewhere. Put the orignal plug back in and you will not hear the hissing sound when you check the oil level. If you still hear that noise then the little bent pipe on top of the plug is stopped up. Blow it out with a pressure hose. Pat

Jose G · Dec 29, 2012

back from the beer...

so i took some pictures while finding out why i had problem with my front axle.

here they are:

this one was a PITA to separate (didnt want to dent something with a screwdriver)

found out why it was leaking, the seal is due to service... some sand seem to have sanded the round piece also, not by much but enough to feel it

here is the problem

the other side that goes into the diff, seem to be mangled too, i hope the other side isnt like this...

more than 1 inch missing (still inside the hub, have to clean and find the missing pieces)

the good thing is there is NO C-clip holding the axle inside the diff (I normally work on car and there's always C-clips or another way to hold the axle)

if it is a Jinma, still need to confirm this... it should measure 14 1/2 inch..... worth ~ 50$

now i need to setup a parts list and order... holiday isnt the best time of the year for shipping

Oh something else... i just seen the cylinder from John's tractor (pretty good site even if it is old), have a look #49:

and he is talking about Jinma only... i guess some Jinma came with this cylinder ???

@Jinma284: I dont have the original plug... i bought the tractor from the bank "as it", and oil was spilling from the tube when nothing was on it, so i decided to put the ball valve on it for now. i can order the original plug, its a red mushroom, not sure if its a vent or not but ill give it a try (i just hope oil wont spil from it!) thanks for pointing me up this

sorry guys for the long post and all the pictures, but as i said, i like pictures

Jose G.

greg_g · Dec 30, 2012

It's called a fill/vent plug, and yes - oil may spill from it. But only if over-filled and/or climbing steep slopes. It's a long known and chronic Chinese tractor issue.

A steering cylinder from any source will work - as long as (a) the inlet/outlet fittings are situated so your existing hoses can connect, and (b) it's the same length (extended/retracted) as your current cylinder. That said, you can also have cylinders rebuilt if you don't want to buy new.

The damage to the front axle was almost certainly caused by slamming into a pile - or something equally immobile - aggravated by operating on a wet/slippery surface. Chinese compact tractors have no center differential to to compensate for the front and rear wheels turning at different rates. Slamming into a pile often causes the front and rear tires to spin at different speeds. And the rear axles are considerably stouter than are the front axles. That's why - when engaged in loader work - we generally advise against the use of 4wd.

//greg//

Affordable · Dec 30, 2012

Jose, we have all the parts and yes it is a Jinma 254/284. If you don't have the parts manual we can help you determine the parts you will need, we should have it all in stock.Let me know if we can help, we are open Monday and we ship to Canada all the time

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

greg_g · Dec 30, 2012

I'm confused by the engine. The designator Y385 is clearly cast into the block.

But the engine label on the valve cover says 26.1 KW.

That's 35 horsepower. Now there IS a Y485 that puts out 35hp, but I've never seen a Y385 rated at more than 28. And the photos don't seem to suggest it would hold up to 35hp either. Unless we're talking about dealer mis-representation here, I don't get it

//greg//