It's time; either get started or....

   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#162  
The four spool valve I have is a BM 40 manufactured in Italy by BLB Hydraulics. I checked to see if they offer a joystick kit and it appears they don't. For now, I'm going to go with getting this plumbed and tested as is. In future, I can always go back and modify if it looks to be beneficial. That's just one of the perks in this game of DIY. Thanks for all the helpful advice!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#163  
The weather began to cooperate recently and I have been able make progress. Since the next part of the project will be mostly hydraulics I will open a thread on that forum. I'm hoping that way to avoid making goofy mistakes. I'll call it "Hydraulics 101 on my Mini Backhoe build".
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#164  
This project has reached the point where a lot of little things need to be addressed. The engine had not been running for some ten years so its no surprise it was reluctant to just start and run as if that kind of down time was without consequences.
First, the reason I parked it all those years ago was its appetite for ignition modules. At $200 Cdn a pop, it was getting expensive to replace them! :eek: Now, with internet shopping I'm able to replace a module for about 30% and I found out the cause - two plugs gapped at .030 firing at the same time is the same as one plug gapped at .060. Running at full throttle for two or three hours while mowing and you get an overheated module with a greatly reduced lifespan. I've reduced the gap to .020 to mitigate this and will experiment with even smaller gaps till I find that "sweet spot" that allows the engine to run smoothly at mid to high rpm's with normal power output.

Second, the valves were not closing enough to create proper compression at first so that even with a new ignition module and fresh sparkers, it refused to start. That eventually cleared up and I got it to run for a few seconds if I primed the carb with a few tablespoons of fuel. Turns out the pulse type fuel pump, another weak link which is a carb - mounted setup, needs a complete rebuild. Time to convert to low pressure electric fuel pump. I "borrowed" one off another garden tractor try it.

Third, Found out the 12 volt feed from the ignition switch no longer functioned reliably. It was more off than on, so, another internet shopping spree. By the time I get the ignition switch and fuel pump, the hydraulic hoses I have on order should be all hooked up. Then I hope to finally get everything tested for the first time.:cautious::)
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#165  
It's over three weeks since I posted to this thread and in that time I have made some progress. The engine starts and runs since figuring out the scrambled terminals on the new ignition switch - totally different from the one I took out. 🤨 I have all but one of the hoses hooked up. That last one needs an adapter to complete the circuit. Hope to have it tomorrow. I drove the backhoe out of the shop yesterday and took some pix.

The first one shows the machine after driving it out of the Quonset. Pic #2 is the seat ready for backhoe operator. #3 the seat for driving. That "snarl" of hoses will need some tidying up to make room for my left foot!! #4 the bucket with its teeth. IMG_2712.JPGIMG_2714.JPGIMG_2716.JPGIMG_2720.JPG That long pin will be shortened after I determine how I'll attach the chains if needed for helping with dumping out sticky clay that wants to stay in there.
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#166  
I got that fitting installed so all the hoses are in place. I found some minor leaks and fixed them easily enough. The thing that had me worried was would that old pump off the bale loader still pump. Well, it pumps alright!! The bale loader was a tractor towed machine so the pump was PTO driven at 540RPM max. The way I am running it is probably quite a bit faster. I'm guessing the engine is running a minimum 1200 RPM or more and the drive pulley to driven pulley cuts it down to half that. I'm going to have to find flow restrictors for all the cylinders as they're moving far too fast. The problem I'm having is sourcing those restrictors. Anyone know where to look?
 
   / It's time; either get started or.... #167  
I would change both pulleys to slow the pump more.
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#168  
I would change both pulleys to slow the pump more.
The pulley off the engine is a five inch that originally powered the mower deck on this garden tractor and if I'm not mistaken it and the drive pulley for the tranny are one unit. The driven pulley is ten inch and that is already pretty big. I'll have to look under the tractor tomorrow and see what the possibilities are.
 
   / It's time; either get started or.... #169  
Can you do a speed reducer like you did on your drill press?

speed reducer.JPG
 
   / It's time; either get started or....
  • Thread Starter
#170  
Can you do a speed reducer like you did on your drill press?

View attachment 696601
That is what I'll try if I take that route. What I hope to do first is fashion homemade restrictors for the individual cylinders. The location of the pump drive is under the tractor because the engine is a vertical shaft type. Not really a fun place to work :rolleyes:.
 
 
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