It's time; either get started or....

[NormL]

Ditto what NormL said... Post it.

I have to go accross a driveway. I'm not sure that a ripper type puller would do the trick.

Don't you need a vibrator on those rippers when you do runs across roads? I guess it could be a challenge to add that to your home built rig. We had the telephone company run extra lines underground and the contractor used a ripper on the driveway but to get to the other side of the municipal road where the junction box stood they drilled under the ditch and road and another ditch to the box. Now THERE'S a toy!:thumbsup:

 

[NormL]

I was able to get in some shop time today. I put a kink in the boom cutting free hand again. Careful measuring and marker work paid off and when i bent the beam to close the gap, the edges matched almost perfectly.:thumbsup: Clamping in the vise and minimal shimming was all it took to match them up.
In the first photo you will see I have left the 5" side unwelded. Since I will be welding 1/4" plate on each side for mounting the cylinders for operating the boom and the dipper, effectively covering that gap, I'm wondering whether I need to fill it. If I don't weld it I don't have to grind it! Second picture shows what I have welded. Not finished there yet. I'll fill a little more and then grind it a bit.

Next I have to shape the angle like Iplayfarmer has on his boom. Then it will be on to fashioning the platform for the pivot and hydraulics.

 

[dcyrilc]

I'm no expert, but I would think that welding, grinding, and then plating it would be much stronger than just plating it.

 

[NormL]

I'm no expert, but I would think that welding, grinding, and then plating it would be much stronger than just plating it.

One of the reasons I'm thinking I could skip that step is because that hunk of steel is about twice the size and strength I really need. I bought it because the price was right. But if plating it is deemed to be insufficient, I'll fill it and grind it like a good little boy.

 

[mjncad]

Fill it, grind it, then add the gusset plates. I know grinding welds sucks; but you'll kick yourself down the road should you have to fix the boom because you didn't want to grind a couple of welds.

 

[NormL]

Thanks for the advice guys! Looks like filling and grinding is the better route. Thanks.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

That's a pretty impressive fit considering you cut it freehand. Good Job!

 

[NormL]

That's a pretty impressive fit considering you cut it freehand. Good Job!

Thanks Iplayfarmer. What had me worried though, was doing the second kink on that boom. Well, I sneaked into the shop after supper and did some more cutting. I need not have worried too much. The cutting went well, albeit slowly.

The first photo shows how much of a correction is needed to line the cut up for welding. The second shows the not so straight cut; the weld will hide that. Third shot demonstrates my high tech folding process.:laughing::laughing: I hope you will excuse the clutter. There's probably a personality measuring device somewhere that takes scenes like this and analyzes the nut bar who owns the place.

 

[NormL]

Now that we have internet again,:thumbsuphad to cut some branches away) I hope I can get some critical advice from you engineering types. I've stripped away the fenders and the console to expose the frame and fuel tank. I'm planning to use the same tank but I'll need to brace the hitching plate. In photo #2 you can see how I plan to place the brace. That is 2"x1/4" flat and will be cut and trimmed to fit behind the hitching plate. That way I hope to be able to reinstall the fenders and seat brackets. I'll fashion a swivel for the operator's seat.

My question is: will this bracing be adequate or will a subframe be needed? If I have to go with a subframe then I'll have to modify the dozer blade mount. That might not be a bad idea but clearance would be an issue. Thoughts?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I vote subframe. On a tractor, subframes are a good idea. On a lawn tractor it's essential.

 

[chad22]

I vote subframe. On a tractor, subframes are a good idea. On a lawn tractor it's essential.

I also vote subframe. Even though the lawn tractor I mounted my backhoe on was a flimsier made tractor. And to be honest that frame didn't hold up very well. It started pulling apart and bending in the middle.

And my thinking is that your frame might do a little flexing as well. From what I can tell your lawn tractor looks like my Sears lawn tractor that I'm gonna put the loader on. And when I do make the loader for it. I'm gonna make a subframe for it. To keep it from deciding to bend on me.

I need to do it anyway to make the mounts for the loader arms.

So definitely make a subframe. This way you won't have to do a tear down again to get it right. "I had to tear down and put my backhoe back together somewhere around 20 times" and hope this last tear down and reassemble that I did the other day will be the last.

My back is killing me moving the heaving boom and stick around.

I learned it the hard way. Thought I could get by without a subframe, I was wrong. :laughing:

Chad

 

[mjncad]

I vote subframe too; but if you can't and choose to use a brace like in photo 2, then I suggest angle iron or C-channel instead if you can make it work. They'll be a lot stiffer than flat bar.

 

[NormL]

Thanks for the input, fellas.:thumbsup: Chad, it is a Sears. The name on it is Craftsman which is a Sears brand in Canada. I won't be building a FEL for this tractor any time soon, if ever. I have two other tractors, both with FELs. mjncad, I thought 2"x1/4" flat might serve because any stress would always be pulling, plus if I use angle or channel, I will have to change out the fuel tank. As it is the fit would be close.

So, let's say I'm building a sub frame for my Craftsman. Do I build it all the way to the front? Or will a few inches short of the front axle do? I ask this because my original plan has been to put a dozer blade in front for weight and anchorage during hoe operation. A sub frame beyond the front axle would give me ground clearance issues, too. Maybe my problem is my understanding of what a sub frame is.:confused2: I'll have to study up on it before I start building one.

 

[rcurrie]

I would add a piece of 1/4 x 4 along the length of the frame front to back. Along with the angle brace you are showing.

 

[NormL]

I would add a piece of 1/4 x 4 along the length of the frame front to back. Along with the angle brace you are showing.

I'm afraid that would take skills I do not posses. There are linkages to the brake and clutch that I would have to change. But what if I were to put a brace as pictured on each side welded to a stout angle iron running across and bolted down and/or welded to the platform. This would not interfere with anything and with large washers or even pieces of flat iron on the underside, I wonder if this would offer adequate support. If I understand this correctly, it all comes down to preventing the tractor frame from buckling, or the back of the tractor getting ripped away by all the stuff I'm hanging on it. Chad, I intend to heed your advice about building too weak.

 

[mjncad]

mjncad, I thought 2"x1/4" flat might serve because any stress would always be pulling, plus if I use angle or channel, I will have to change out the fuel tank. As it is the fit would be close.

Then I vote for C-channel as the flanges won't protrude anywhere near as much as the leg of an angle iron, whether equal or unequal leg lengths. According to my steel book, a 2" x 1/2" x 1/8" Bar Size C-channel has a flange width of 1/2". Weight is approximately 1.43 pounds/foot. The 2" x 1/4" flat weighs in at 1.70 pounds/foot.

Even though the stress may always be pulling as you say in a perfect world; the reality of the situation is that C-channel will be less likely to buckle than flat bar will. If you have a vertical bandsaw, you could always rip some C-channel from 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing, which will make for a stout brace.

 

[NormL]

Then I vote for C-channel as the flanges won't protrude anywhere near as much as the leg of an angle iron, whether equal or unequal leg lengths. According to my steel book, a 2" x 1/2" x 1/8" Bar Size C-channel has a flange width of 1/2". Weight is approximately 1.43 pounds/foot. The 2" x 1/4" flat weighs in at 1.70 pounds/foot.

Even though the stress may always be pulling as you say in a perfect world; the reality of the situation is that C-channel will be less likely to buckle than flat bar will. If you have a vertical bandsaw, you could always rip some C-channel from 2" x 2" x 1/4" square tubing, which will make for a stout brace.

Nope, don't have a bandsaw with a blade to cut steel. I tried that with the cheapo saw I've got and the bi-metal blades I bought for it got dull really fast. It started to run into money for blades so I had to find a different way to make the cuts.

I did a 300+ mile trip today and had a lot of time to "engineer" while I was watching the road. I think I may have a way to use channel in that tight spot where the tank sits. If I run it horizontally till it clears the tank and then angle it downward toward the frame and weld that to a reinforcing plate, what do you gentlemen think? I'm sure I would have to gusset that kink, but even then it should be easy enough to do.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

As for your subframe, think of a cradle that holds your tractor. If built perfect, the subframe will gently lift the tractor off the ground before anything is stressed to the point of failure. You're just going to have to look at what you have to work with and come as close to this as possible.

If you're putting a blade on the front (which I think is a good idea), then ideally your subframe will connect the backhoe to the blade. It would be best to not rely on any part of the garden tractor frame carry any of the forces from the backhoe or blade.

There's no law that says all of this distribution of forces has to be done with something running under your tractor. It might look goofy, but you could run bars down the sides, up top, or any way you can imagine. I'm sure you'll figure out something that's perfect for your situation.

 

[NormL]

There's no law that says all of this distribution of forces has to be done with something running under your tractor. It might look goofy, but you could run bars down the sides, up top, or any way you can imagine. I'm sure you'll figure out something that's perfect for your situation.

Thanks for that! I really have little background in the subframe concept. Looking for something on the internet was not working either - it didn't help that we were without it for most of a week. This helps!:thumbsup:

 

[mjncad]

I think I may have a way to use channel in that tight spot where the tank sits. If I run it horizontally till it clears the tank and then angle it downward toward the frame and weld that to a reinforcing plate, what do you gentlemen think? I'm sure I would have to gusset that kink, but even then it should be easy enough to do.

If you've got room, add the gusset.